Crashtd420 Posted April 14, 2020 Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 I think what hes saying is the pointer looks like its pointing behind the pulley... I think you want that pointer to have a 90 degree bend pointing at the pulley almost touching it.... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: I think what hes saying is the pointer looks like its pointing behind the pulley... I think you want that pointer to have a 90 degree bend pointing at the pulley almost touching it.... Ahh ok..I think its just the angle I took the picture at, I can see it fine when looking down at it. I can bend it up if it become an issue. I also have this picture when I set the motor to TDC when I first got it which is pointing, relatively, at the same notch on the pulley. Edited April 14, 2020 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 14, 2020 Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 Go look at the motor in your truck you'll see the difference.... Look at both like your trying to use the timing light.... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 (edited) Ahh I get what you and him were saying now (apologies stoffgren) and I didn't even have to go downstairs to look..so I guess I should be bend it out then? Edited April 14, 2020 by d.p 3 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted April 14, 2020 Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 Yes, that is what I was referring to. Use some paint to mark the correct TDC notch on the pulley, so you don't confuse them in the future. My only point being that TDC needs to be verified with actual work. Relying on someone else's past work is not a good idea. At least on a Datsun. Sounds like you've got it figured out, and verifying it with a dial indicator is definitely the proper way. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 (edited) Anyone know if the pulley on an L16 is the same as an L20b pulley? I have an unmolested pulley from a spare L16 and it looks identical to the one that come off my L20b minus all the additional notches. I prefer to use the unmolested one but want to make sure I can. Now that I think about it maybe the pulley on the engine when I got it was an L16 because it came with the single pointer and not the saw tooth one. If that is the case I should be OK. Also pro v cons on mechanical vs electric fuel pump? L20B had an electric pump which I didn't grab so debating whether I throw the eccentric on and go that way OR buy an electrical pump. Edited April 18, 2020 by d.p Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 (edited) Yes the pulley will fit and hopefully it matches the timmimg pointer that goes with it.its usually the simple pointer that has been shown in the thread. Ez to fugure out when motor is at TDC. As for the fuel pump eccentric.i would keep it on there as a spacer or incase you need to put a pump on in case your made in Corona Virus China pump goes bad I like a manual pump In case you wreck. At motor is off and stops pumping gas to the front. my yellow 510 (Mallory pump)I got in a wreck and was shooting gas even when motor wasn’t running. But key was still on. I also don’t like routing a wire to the back. I did like the better start up and don’t have to wait for the gas to get up front to the carb. A long time ago a had a Carter electric vane type ((USA made )In front by the volt reg and was ezer to find a 12 volt wire and was able to pull gas way back from from the back no problems. Edited April 18, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 This look right? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Yes perfect. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 2 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: Yes perfect. solid. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 If you have both pulleys(L16 and L20b) put the crank key straight up, are the marks on the same side? Are both the L16 and L20b timed from the same side of the block? It has been 25 years since I timed an L16, I could remember wrong, but was the pointer on the L16 under the distributor rather than under the fuel pump? 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Yeah the pulleys look identical. On my l16 in my truck it’s a single pointer on the pass side. Looks like whomever owned this engine prior to me used an L16 pointer and pulley? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 L20B use a toothed scale bolted on the timing cover near the pulley. The pulley has a single notch at TDC. Simpler to mark the notch and see where the timing light shows it in relation to the scale. It's marked 0, 10 and 20 with 2.50 peaks and valleys between. On 4/14/2020 at 11:09 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Yes, that is what I was referring to. Use some paint to mark the correct TDC notch on the pulley, so you don't confuse them in the future. The pointer is TDC. With this style of pulley you want to mark the ignition timing you want on the proper advance notch. Each notch is probably 50? so mark where you think 120 is and line this mark with the pointer. I think all L series front pulleys will swap but some have up to 3 pulley grooves on them and the timing notch on the later won't line up with the ones that use the single pointer. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted April 19, 2020 Report Share Posted April 19, 2020 23 hours ago, datzenmike said: The pointer is TDC. With this style of pulley you want to mark the ignition timing you want on the proper advance notch. Each notch is probably 50? so mark where you think 120 is and line this mark with the pointer. I think all L series front pulleys will swap but some have up to 3 pulley grooves on them and the timing notch on the later won't line up with the ones that use the single pointer. Industry standard is to mark TDC with paint, not anything else. If you go against the standard you run the risk of having someone poke their head under there, see the timing off (because it's not marked at TDC) and make an adjustment that could blow your shit up. Best to mark TDC. The pointer is TDC - well, yes, but on a pulley with multiple notches, which one is TDC? That's what I meant. Mark the notch. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 19, 2020 Report Share Posted April 19, 2020 With a pointer type set up a marked TDC isn't the proper advance, so then you have to look around in the dark for the correct notch over to the side. Surely it would make more sense and be easier to find the advance notch you want and mark it with paint. When adjusting the timing set the pointer on the paint mark. I don't have the pointer style with all the unnumbered advance notches. in this case the there is only a single TDC notch and you have a clearly marked scale to set to. I would NEVER let anyone else look at or set my timing same as I would never let someone else pack my parachute. Flash kind of washed out the timing numbers but they are there. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Got my dial guage and verified TDC at the first big notch on the pulley. Also got my chain guides so at this point I think I am ready to put it all together. One question I do have is when you rotate the crank or the cam (separate of each other) is a little resistance OK? There are no spark plugs installed and for the most part they both turn freely but at one point on both it gets tight. Not sure if that is normal or expected. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 DON'T!!! At TDC the #3 cylinder intake valve is fully open, the #2 exhaust is fully open. If you turn the crank those pistons will come up and hit them if the cam is disconnected. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Don’t what? The head isn’t on the block. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 15 minutes ago, d.p said: Don’t what? The head isn’t on the block. If you read your post quick you can get the wrong impression..... What your feeling in the block is probably fine.... my guess is your just feeling the tdc before starts back down... you also have 2 pistons at the bottom of there stroke too.... I swear there is the tiniest pause in the assembly at that moment... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 On the cam do you get resistance with just the cam and no rockers? Or are the rockers installed? Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Just now, Crashtd420 said: On the cam do you get resistance with just the cam and no rockers? Or are the rockers installed? With the rockers installed and lash set. I don't remember turning it without the rockers installed. I get more resistance turning the CAM in the head then I do when turning the crank with the pistons installed. Hopefully that makes sense. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Well in the head your fighting valve springs... Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 9 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Well in the head your fighting valve springs... I figured as much, I guess I just didn't know what to expect. I checked measurements, lash, TDC, gap everything the best I could. Just being overtly cautious I guess. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 32 minutes ago, d.p said: Don’t what? The head isn’t on the block. lol I saw separate of each other'. Carry on The crank needs a bit of a shove to get it turning because of ring friction on the walls but once moving a little less to keep turning. Also slightly tighter at TDC positions where the rings change direction and grip the walls again. The cam is almost effortless to turn if the rockers are not on. If they are on it's jerky as some springs are unloading and some starting to compress. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Great thanks my dudes. Quote Link to comment
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