My 1971 521

[banzai510(hainz)]

This is what I do. I might have mentioned it in my vid.

I have(had) a spare block and I mount the new head on there using the 2 center bolts mounting head down to hold it on the block.

I then install and set up the rockers and valve lash and or wipe parrtern correctly or the new lash pads if one has a Bigger cam.  then when Im done  set to TDC and remove and get ready to install on your new motor block which is at TDC and put chain on ect….

 

if using a block that has pistons just put them in the center  when setting up new head so you don't hit a valve  when rotating cam while putting in new rackers and setting up lash

 

 

yes when installing the rockers it will get harder and harder to turn that why it on the block to hold it down

 

a cam with no rockers installed should be EZ to turn with your fingers if prefect,  if by hand is also ok.

Edited April 22, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[d.p]

I had my head setup on wood  blocks and vice gripped to my work bench and installed the rockers and set the lash that way.  Made sure the wood blocks weren't blocking the valves in any way shape or form.  I actually have a spare block at my other house but I am too lazy to go get it.  

 

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

that works also

[d.p]

Yeah, one more question I have about the bottom of my head and some wear it has around the water jackets and other passages.  I assume this will seal up with the head gasket? If not is there something I can do to fill those spots? Like JB weld? 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Your Head looks OK to me

I had a headgasket leak. the 1st bottom one on left side was real bad. I had a Felpro and was leaking I put a Durapro HG for Austraila and has been working fine.

Hole is big enough that I best get it welded up but I took a chance and its been ok.

I assume the head didn't have good antifreeze in it for awhile or to much regular water  erodeding the head.

 

that's why they say change out every 3 years. So I just use the 50/50 mix from Walmart

my 521 leaks just enough where its now always NEW antifreeze in there. drops down 2 inches every 3/4 weeks. Champion  3 core Chinese aluminum leaker.

[d.p]

I got OEM nissan HG so I should be OK.  

[d.p]

Do l28T oil pumps work on L20s?  I read somewhere that all Datsun oil pumps work on all L engines?  If so is it worth the $100 or so for a high pressure pump? 

[mainer311]

Just get the oil pump from a 90’s Nissan pickup KA. They’re like $30 or something, and have the taller rotor for higher volume. 

Edited April 23, 2020 by mainer311

[d.p]

1 minute ago, mainer311 said:

Just get the oil pump from a 90’s Nissan pickup KA. They’re like $30 or something, and have the taller rotor for higher volume. 

I can do that.  Anyone got a part number? 

[mainer311]

OUP0023, Hitachi. Rock Auto claims it’s the actual OEM manufacturer. Get a new gasket while you’re at it. $53 (better than $100)

Edited April 23, 2020 by mainer311

[d.p]

10 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

OUP0023, Hitachi. Rock Auto claims it’s the actual OEM manufacturer. Get a new gasket while you’re at it. $53 (better than $100)

thanks mang.  I think the L high pressure pumps are anywhere from $125-175 depending on who is selling them.  

[datzenmike]

That's because the word TURBO, it makes everything more expensive. I just pull an original off

KA24E in the early 240sx NOT the later KA24DE, it has an internal pump.

KA24E and KA24DE in the D21 Hardbody

 

All have the external high volume pumps. You can't tell from the outside, you have to look down into the inlet port so make sure you know what to look for and get what you pay for. They are about $100 at the Nissan dealer which has about a 65% mark up so OEM around $60? sounds about right

[d.p]

Head bolt washers are flat and round on one side. I assume round is facing the bolt and flat the head?

[mainer311]

That’s correct.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 4/22/2020 at 12:37 PM, d.p said:

Yeah, one more question I have about the bottom of my head and some wear it has around the water jackets and other passages.  I assume this will seal up with the head gasket? If not is there something I can do to fill those spots? Like JB weld? 

 

Lay the gasket on the head surface and compare the holes. If any of them protrude past the sealing surface of the gasket, they may need to be welded up. Your machine shop most likely had a look at them before they surfaced the head, but it wouldn't hurt to check yourself.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Like I said your fine .Mine was worse.

[d.p]

Thanks

 

If the engine will be sitting for awhile (assembled) should I do anything prior to putting the head on?  Lube or oil anything? Not sure when I will get around to dropping it (trying to get a 5 speed before I do) in so I want to do anything I can to keep it pristine while it sits.  
 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Be honest I don’t know

if assembled with grease or oil is fine.

 

 

I have a spare L18 that’s been sitting for over 25yrs and I sprayed some fogging lube in the cylinders and I spind it over maybe 15 yrs ago with a bracket bari assume it’s good

 

i just pour oil on the cam and down the front of the chain. make sure oil pump is primed .im sure your fine

be honest I don’t care at this point if motor is bad it best it goes bad in the first 15 minutes.

 

my block builder said put the rings in dry as it seats faster but I was worried about rust build up so I will find out in 10 years if I ever use this motor .

[mainer311]

I would just wipe a light coat of motor oil on the surfaces of the bores prior to plopping the head on.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I use Redline assembly lube. If I recall, it is one assembly lube that doesn't cake up over time. Some do. Spread it on the cam, rockers and timing chain. Other than that, you may want to spray the cylinders down with WD40. That's about all you can do.

[d.p]

Got the head on and mostly everything torqued down.  Engine spins super smooth to so that makes me happy.   I have to put the pan, order some parts and get the valve cover powder coated but other than majority of its done.  Missing a couple TC bolts but Jose is going to send me those.  Still looking for a 5 speed to hopefully pair this with.  I figure if I can't find one I may just drop this in my truck and see what happens.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 26, 2020 by d.p

[banzai510(hainz)]

Zcar depot has the jap made water pump the good one. I think it’s the 551 part number either the cast vanes

 

what carbs you going to run?

if sidedrafts Weber/mikunis I would get some npt pipe plugs. To plug the water passages and don’t have to deal with leaks

if running a down draft maybe keep them to run in colder climates

 

chain set up looks good

Edited April 26, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[d.p]

This pump?  https://zcardepot.com/products/water-pump-l16-l18-l20b-510
 

Going to run dual Mikunis or a single Weber.  
 

 

What water passages would I need to plug? exactly?   They 2 holes below the intake ports? 

Edited April 26, 2020 by d.p

[datzenmike]

Well it shouldn't leak as the intake is sealed and doesn't use it and the gasket seals the intake to the head. But if you don't trust your own work, weld them up or drill and tap for a pipe plug.

[d.p]

Doesn’t answer my question but ok because I have another one.  
 

For chain guide bolts and such which require a small amount of torque should they still get tighter after torquing them?  I mean I set my torque wrench to X and it clicks but I can still tighten the bolt.  Is that expected with the lower ft lbs ? IE 4-7?