mainer311 Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 1 minute ago, Crashtd420 said: I was wondering that too... they have an oil cap seal that I want to buy.... Just get one of those bitchin' billet oil caps from John WIlliams. It takes a big fat o-ring. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 I could but I like my elephant cap with all the Japanese writing on it.... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 He (Riley) is still there, just email him and he will respond. vintage@lynchburgnissan.com What load bearing areas on an L20b would these not be used? And they aren't all socket heads, some regular ones as well. Ray used these on his, so by the time mine is ready to go I should know if any of his failed. lol 3 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 3 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: I could but I like my elephant cap with all the Japanese writing on it.... He sell those too, I got a red elephant one but let it sit on my battery and it somehow melted the sides of it. I must have left it on the positive terminal or something. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 4 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: I could but I like my elephant cap with all the Japanese writing on it.... He makes those. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 (edited) 4 minutes ago, d.p said: He (Riley) is still there, just email him and he will respond. vintage@lynchburgnissan.com What load bearing areas on an L20b would these not be used? And they aren't all socket heads, some regular ones as well. Ray used these on his, so by the time mine is ready to go I should know if any of his failed. lol Externally, the only place I really wouldn't use them is probably the intake/exhaust manifold area where you want a lot of clamping force. Also, stainless and aluminum do funny things when there is a presence of an electrolyte, and the safest thing to do is to apply a copper-based anti-seize on them before installing. I used to work on food machinery that was constantly being sanitized, and any time there was a stainless screw tapped directly into the aluminum, the aluminum hole would turn into a white powder and be junk. Edited January 2, 2020 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 On a performance L block you should use a head stud kit, I like the "ARP head stud kit 202-4201", I have never lost a head gasket after installing them, lots of them on Ebay. Here is one from Summit Racing on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-Cylinder-Head-Studs-Pro-Series-12-Point-Head-Fits-Nissan-L20-Series-2-0L-Kit/193217248778?epid=1017821086&hash=item2cfca53e0a:g:PwYAAOSwyMVd1GWI:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!98683!US!-1 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 PM him vintage@lynchburgnissan.com tell him what you want and qty and he will get back to you and you can make arrangement for payments on the phone using your CC . He works at the Mazda dealership also which I assume is owned by same people so he will get back to you, If you need something that is in stock took about 4 days going back and forth but if you need something that nobody else has then just got to wait he has a lot of lash pads of various sizes but I don't think I will ever build another motor but I cant help myself on getting the spares for the ones I used up. 3 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 (edited) 10 minutes ago, wayno said: On a performance L block you should use a head stud kit, I like the "ARP head stud kit 202-4201", I have never lost a head gasket after installing them, lots of them on Ebay. Here is one from Summit Racing on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-Cylinder-Head-Studs-Pro-Series-12-Point-Head-Fits-Nissan-L20-Series-2-0L-Kit/193217248778?epid=1017821086&hash=item2cfca53e0a:g:PwYAAOSwyMVd1GWI:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!98683!US!-1 That's not what we are talking about. Jesus Christ, does anybody read around here? Edited January 2, 2020 by mainer311 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 Mainer you remind me of Walter in The Big Lebowski 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 35 minutes ago, mainer311 said: That's not what we are talking about. Jesus Christ, does anybody read around here? That's ratsun for you.... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 Look like head bolts right at the front with their large washers. Does look like SS and is a lot weaker. Stainless has a yield strength ( beyond this point any stretching is permanent) of 29,000-43,500 PSI. Steel is 36,200 minimum and up to 58,000 PSI. I used SS wood screws outside so they wouldn't stain from rust and was surprised how easily the electric driver twisted the heads off. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, d.p said: Mainer you remind me of Walter in The Big Lebowski I love that movie. I’ll take that as a compliment. Mark it zero Donny, he was over the line. Edited January 2, 2020 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 2 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Look like head bolts right at the front with their large washers. Well fuck, I rescind my previous statement. Sorry Wayno. You can get some fairly exotic stainless fasteners in material like 17-4PH, but they’re expensive, especially if they’re hardened to H900. Run of the mill 18-8 and 316 is generally pretty weak. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 You do realize it's a close up shot of the bag.... definitely not head bolts.... Look at the bolts marked distributor mount.... 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 They are really long, not sure where else they would go. Thermostat housing, maybe? Can’t remember what those look like. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 3, 2020 Report Share Posted January 3, 2020 Timing cover!! The cap head threw me off. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2020 Everyone just needs to relax lol. No head bolts in the kit. It’s all the bolt on stuff outside the engine. Eventually I’ll take them out of the bag and take a photo for everyone to see what’s included. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 3, 2020 Report Share Posted January 3, 2020 16 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Timing cover!! The cap head threw me off. Or even the valve cover 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 3, 2020 Report Share Posted January 3, 2020 (edited) Valve cover bolts are deceivingly small. I think they’re M6. I turned the heads of some stainless bolts and polished them. Boom shakalaka Edited January 3, 2020 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 3, 2020 Report Share Posted January 3, 2020 (edited) I didn't bring up the ARP head stud kit because of that bag of bolts, I brought it up because he was replacing a bunch of bolts so I thought he might replace them also and it is way better to use studs than bolts, especially on performance engines. Fact is that bag of bolts doesn't look large enough to hold a set of head bolts, and his block and head are in the shop, so he has more time to think about it, and that is a recipe for more new parts like maybe head bolts, personally I will never again build a L block without them as I had the threads pull out of the front left head bolt hole near the thermostat housing on my first LZ23 and I had to take the block out of the truck and to the machinists and leave it there over night so they could fix it, never again as that was a pain to have my work truck down when I have work scheduled more than a month in advance, I will use a stud kit and not have to worry about pulling a block plus it is a pain in the ass to make a 89mm head gasket for an L head out of a Z24 head gasket. Edited January 3, 2020 by wayno 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2020 41 minutes ago, mainer311 said: Valve cover bolts are deceivingly small. I think they’re M6. I turned the heads of some stainless bolts and polished them. Boom shakalaka got those already on my l16 that I got from Zcardepot IIRC. 1 Quote Link to comment
Greaser2 Posted January 3, 2020 Report Share Posted January 3, 2020 8 hours ago, d.p said: Got this slick bolt kit for am L20B today...$100 shipped. Worth it IMHO as I don't have to guess what goes where lol. Need to order some rockers, flywheel and some other shit too. I should have this engine built this year but whether it will go in the truck is another story. Where u get these 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2020 Texted you his contact info mang. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 3, 2020 Report Share Posted January 3, 2020 (edited) I got tired of using allen wrenches my self. 10 /12 /14 mm heads are just ezer to work with Edited January 3, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
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