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My 1971 521


d.p

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The cig  voltage  meter works well.i trust them

 

now there can be a corrossion issue between the battery post and the cable.which makes the battery not charge good. Or cracked cable end if over tighten

if your meter is reading over 13 .5 volts or more with no load while running I say the alternator is good.

with h4 lamps one should be fine except at high beam at idle with a 35 amped.thats why you have the meter.to shut off heater if voltage drops

make sure connections are right

 

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Battery is slightly discharged or it's getting old. It's going to take some time to totally recharge it. 12.6 would be a better at rest reading.

Are the clamps on the post clean and tight? If making bad contact it will run normal but nothing is getting to and charging the battery and it can be near dead while driving around. Naturally it won't restart if you shut it off.

 

What does it read running and then running with the headlamps on??

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Well i cleaned the positive terminal and cable end and put it all back together and the fucker started right up.  Voltmeter says 13.80 at the battery when running which should mean the alt is charging right? 
 

seems like I have to do exactly this a couple times. Would that mean I should replace my cables ?

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How old are cables.?

get the molded ends

Red post goes to the back towards starter

black goes to the head

I start the motor and let it run for 30secs w/o Turing anything on to recharge the battery after start.

i got a Rockauto PowerSelect 35amp alternator NEW and have no proplems. Also a japanese made volt reg

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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1 hour ago, d.p said:

And with the low beams on at the battery reads 12.8.  High beams it reads 12.45. 
 

 

 

  This is not good. The alternator regulator should sense a voltage drop when the lights are turned on and compensate for it by raising the charge output voltage. Rev the engine to a fast idle and measure again.

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  • 2 months later...

Got my carbs rebuilt but not without a casualty. 

 

One of the stacks got damaged in transit back to me which sucks.  Kyusha house is going to replace it but sucks nonetheless. 

 

49300865417_cb3139d279_z.jpg

 

49300865247_95422629e2_z.jpg

 

49300657196_52a0bbc2a9_z.jpg

 

Still waiting for the block and head to come back from the machine shop.  Guy told me last week he ordered some custom moly piston rings from Hastings and just waiting for them to come in.  Hopefully get it back in the next couple weeks.  

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7 hours ago, d.p said:

Got my carbs rebuilt but not without a casualty. 

 

One of the stacks got damaged in transit back to me which sucks.  Kyusha house is going to replace it but sucks nonetheless. 

 

49300865417_cb3139d279_z.jpg

 

49300865247_95422629e2_z.jpg

 

49300657196_52a0bbc2a9_z.jpg

 

Still waiting for the block and head to come back from the machine shop.  Guy told me last week he ordered some custom moly piston rings from Hastings and just waiting for them to come in.  Hopefully get it back in the next couple weeks.  

You went to Taka. I would of warned him first.

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10 hours ago, mrbigtanker said:

You went to Taka. I would of warned him first.


Yeah Taka and my money is just as green as yours.  Lol

 

10 hours ago, mrbigtanker said:

I got an NOS set let me know.


of stacks?  You using stacks from John? 

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Got this slick bolt kit for am L20B today...$100 shipped.  Worth it IMHO as I don't have to guess what goes where lol. 

 

49317748536_c60bc0259c_z.jpg

 

Need to order some rockers, flywheel and some other shit too.  I should have this engine built this year but whether it will go in the truck is another story.  

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Just now, banzai510(hainz) said:

You still have to know what length goes where.  that's why i pu the bolts back on the hole where they came from

 

zcardepot.com is my new favorite site right now

 

True but at least this way I know what bolts go where and I can figure out the rest.   Why are they are your favorite site?  

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Careful with that bag of bolts. They look like stainless steel, and while they won't rust, are weak as hell. Hopefully they're all used in non-clamping or load bearing locations, especially being socket heads.

Edited by mainer311
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