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My 1971 521


d.p

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8 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

87mm gasket? Use one from a Z22 and snip the front cover tabs off with a tin snips. Then move them to the proper location while installing the head. Use a good amount of grey RTV t seal it up.

 

For water passages/gaskets, I like to use Threebond 1211. It works great for fuel related gaskets too. It's thin and flows a lot so only a little is required. It will make those small pits in the gasket area seal up nicely.

 

Z22 gasket holes are differently placed for the coolant. Remember the Z series are a cross flow head and have fewer holes on the left side than the L series. There is less need to cool the exhaust ports when there are no intakes there.

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14 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Z22 gasket holes are differently placed for the coolant. Remember the Z series are a cross flow head and have fewer holes on the left side than the L series. There is less need to cool the exhaust ports when there are no intakes there.

You punch out the hole in the rear with a gasket (or leather) hole punch. This mod makes them function the same.

 

EDIT - after reading the latest posts, I did not realize what the bore size was. You do not want to go much over the bore size as this can create combustion irregularities. Use a L20B gasket.

Edited by Stoffregen Motorsports
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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

You punch out the hole in the rear with a gasket (or leather) hole punch. This mod makes them function the same.

 

EDIT - after reading the latest posts, I did not realize what the bore size was. You do not want to go much over the bore size as this can create combustion irregularities. Use a L20B gasket.

 

So this will work just fine?   https://zcardepot.com/products/cylinder-head-gasket-japan-l16-l18-l20b-510-620?_pos=11&_sid=11196d391&_ss=r


About to order the following:

 

head gasket

rear main seal

ARP head studs

rockers

freeze plugs

 

I think that's it for now, will need a clutch eventually but can cross that bridge when I come to it.  Also my flywheel sat outside and has surface rust on it, can it be turned or should I just run it?  

 

 

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The Sanwa gasket worked perfectly on my L16. It was a little big for the bore, so I would think should be fine on the L20b. I copper sprayed the top of it, and left the bottom bare. 

 

As for the flywheel, best to have them surface ground, but if the surface is decently flat, I would just remove the rust with some carb cleaner and a scotch-brite pad.

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20 hours ago, d.p said:

 

So this will work just fine?   https://zcardepot.com/products/cylinder-head-gasket-japan-l16-l18-l20b-510-620?_pos=11&_sid=11196d391&_ss=r


About to order the following:

 

head gasket

rear main seal

ARP head studs

rockers

freeze plugs

 

I think that's it for now, will need a clutch eventually but can cross that bridge when I come to it.  Also my flywheel sat outside and has surface rust on it, can it be turned or should I just run it?  

 

 

I love how the description says it will fit L16, L18 and L20B. They are all different bore sizes... I don't love that it's not graphite coated, but if people here have had success with it, go for it.

 

Head studs? I don't think you need head studs. Head bolts are still available and are much easier to use. Cleaning the deck surface of a block with head studs is a pain in the ass, plus installation and removal of the head gets trick, especially in the car/truck. If your bolts have a ring around the top of the head, and are not rusty, re-use them.

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Looks like Riley has OEM 86MM L20B gaskets for $49 so I might just get that and be done with it.    Yeah that is the one Mainer got.  

 

On another note my other car was sideswiped and I had it repaired by BMW and now my new wheels and tires rub on the drivers side quarter they repaired.  of course they say "don't know why that is?!"  Its because you fucked up the repair thats why.  They also mangled my jack pads as well as clear coat run on the a pillar.  Fucking frustrating to say the least. 

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If BMW has this on site I would be all over them Like a Spider Monkey. But really since Im a small guy they will tell me to get fucked in a nice way and your going to have to sue them.

they aint fixing it. they are done. maybe a couple guys will reef on the fender and call it good.

 

here is where owning a nice Newer car can suck? insurance and dealerships

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1 minute ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

If BMW has this on site I would be all over them Like a Spider Monkey. But really since Im a small guy they will tell me to get fucked in a nice way and your going to have to sue them.

they aint fixing it. they are done. maybe a couple guys will reef on the fender and call it good.

 

here is where owning a nice Newer car can suck? insurance and dealerships

 

They are willing to fix everything (have an appointment next week) and I have a good rapport with them as my immediate family has given them a fair amount of business over the years.  

 

 

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22 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I have a general rule that once a vehicle has been repaired by insurance, it's time to sell it.

 

Easier said then done, they don't make this model (F80  M3) anymore and I am waiting for the new one to come which is either later this year or early 2021.

 

 

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Trust me I hate owning/having a car that has been in accident because I know it will never be the same.   But obviously can't control when some kook rear ends the car stopped opposite you, bounces off that car swerves into oncoming traffic and sideswipes you.  

 

 

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I know this is hindsight, but a thorough walkaround and test drive before you take delivery is always smart. That way you can decline approval and walk away. I've played this game with insurance jobs and yes, it sucks, but ultimately they are responsible for bringing your car back to original condition. They have wiggle room. If they don't play along, threaten to have your attorney contact them.

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24 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I know this is hindsight, but a thorough walkaround and test drive before you take delivery is always smart. That way you can decline approval and walk away. I've played this game with insurance jobs and yes, it sucks, but ultimately they are responsible for bringing your car back to original condition. They have wiggle room. If they don't play along, threaten to have your attorney contact them.

 

I totally agree but they gave it back to me outside in the pouring rain (probably a sign of how they do business).  Little if nothing I could do at that point so I just took the car and told them if I found anything I would let them know.   Also it didn't rub on the stock wheels and tires, its only my aftermarket wheels which are narrower tires than my last set (305 vs 295) that rub on the quarter they repaired.   


They have been receptive up to this point but will know for sure how receptive next week once its goes back.   Funny anecdote I am friends with the service manage there and he had his wife's car repaired just recently and had a lot of the same complaints that I did about their quality of work.  Too bad he is the one who told me to use them.   lol

Edited by d.p
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Now that I thought about it I never got an alignment done after the repair work and the body shop said they wouldn't do it because my car was lowered.  I imagine if I go get some negative camber dialed in the problem would go away.  

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1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

if your tires didn't wear then it wasn't a proplem. I lowered my truck and it was fine.

 

you think doing a front end alighment woulf be a no brainer to for their sake of mine know they did it right.  less than a 1hr job its its fine. WTF

 A performance alignment is different from a standard alignment. Different goals to achieve. I'm not surprised the dealer wouldn't do it.

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Well they just called and said the rear on both sides was the same -1.7 so they think its a problem with the body work.  


Either way at least I can tell the body shop it was aligned and the problem is still there so its on them to rectify.  

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally got ahold of Riley and got some OEM parts for putting my L20B back together.   

 

Ream main seal

Crank shaft seal

New rockers

l20b head gasket

Nismo chain tensioner (has a cool retainer arm to keep from popping out)

Freeze plugs

 

The only thing I didn't get where the side blade/seals for the rear main but hopefully Riley will send me a set.  Going to order a clutch as well from datsunparts today.  At that point I think I will have everything I need.  

 

49613914031_94f89cf471_z.jpg

 

49613928291_1e6587c07c_z.jpg

 

 

Edited by d.p
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