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My 1971 521


d.p

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Oh and FWIW my car went back to the bodyshop, they fixed some shit and now its getting another alignment after I installed adjustable toe arms.  Looking to get at least -2.5 of camber in the rear to alleviate the rubbing.  If I still can't then will get some new shorter tires (305/25 or 295/25 vs 295/30 I have on there now).  

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I am pretty sure my L20b came out of a 610 originally then came out of a 510.  So I assume its 200mm.  I think I measured the one off the L20 but I will again to be sure and I can't look at my l16 flywheel because its in the truck still.   

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All 4 cylinder 5 and 6 bolt crankshaft cars are 200mm till the '82 S110 Z22 when they went to 225mm

All 5 bolt L16 truck and cars are 200mm except the '74 620 which was 225mm on a 5 bolt flywheel

All truck L20B, Z22 and SD (diesel) are 225mm but starting with the '83 Z24 and Z20 720 trucks, changed to 240mm.

 

Truck flywheels tend to be heavier than car flywheels. 

 

Five bolt are interchangeable, all 6 bolt are interchangeable, so not impossible to find  one that doesn't match the above.  

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

All 4 cylinder 5 and 6 bolt crankshaft cars are 200mm till the '82 S110 Z22 when they went to 225mm

All 5 bolt L16 truck and cars are 200mm except the '74 620 which was 225mm on a 5 bolt flywheel

All truck L20B, Z22 and SD (diesel) are 225mm but starting with the '83 Z24 and Z20 720 trucks, changed to 240mm.

 

Truck flywheels tend to be heavier than car flywheels. 

 

Five bolt are interchangeable, all 6 bolt are interchangeable, so not impossible to find  one that doesn't match the above.  

 

So if my L20B came out of a 610 and went into a 510 chances are its 200mm flywheel?  

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10 hours ago, d.p said:

 

So if my L20B came out of a 610 and went into a 510 chances are its 200mm flywheel?  

 

YES.... if no one had replaced it.

 

I had a 521 years ago and put an L20B in and it worked just fine. I knew nothing about the different clutches and matched release bearings. So I hear that the L20Bs had 225mm clutches and the L16 bearing won't work. WTF? Well turns out the L20B was from a car so it all went together smoothly but I didn't know this at the time. It could have been a shit show.

 

200mm 5 bolt. The L20B looks the same but 6 bolt.

Uw9TgXO.jpg

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Does anyone know where I can get the rear main side seals?  Fucking Riley didn’t send them and it’s the only thing I don’t have.  
 

I don’t think I can put the bottom end back together without them can I? 

Edited by d.p
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All I know is, I ordered a rear main kit from Rock Auto that was supposed to come with the side seals, but the package was ripped open and only had one side in it. 
 

Maybe you’d have better luck. It was the Fel-Pro kit.
 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1971,521+pickup,1.6l+l4,1212321,engine,crankshaft+seal,5604

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Cool thanks guys.  And I need to set valve lash according to my cam right?  .006 and .008 per the picture below.  Although not sure what it means when it says “set valve lash at the valve not at cam lobes?”
 

 

49632257871_c84b9a6255.jpg

 

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Been buying shit to get this engine done. Bought the zcardepot valve spring compressor but haven’t had a chance to use it.   Also bought Capri thin wrenches for the valve lash.  Hope to have it put back together soon but have been lacking overall motivation.  Maybe the warm weather and all the stuff I need to around the house has deterred me. 
 

Other than been driving my other car a lot lately. Finally got the running sorted out with a proper alignment and negative camber.  Got all that done only to curb one of wheels which I never ducking do.  Now I got to take the tire off and ship it to HRE to have the front barrel replaced.  2 steps forward 1 step back I guess.  
 

 

BSM-HRE-C300-01

 

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Metric crow's foot wrenches work great for getting into the tight areas when doing the valve lash. Hell, just removing the damn battery first gives you plenty of room.

 

I bought a cheap valve compressor recently and it works great. It's the OTC 4572. Amazon for $50.

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