banzai510(hainz) Posted March 3, 2020 Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 what flywheels you have? before you order the clutch!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 Oh and FWIW my car went back to the bodyshop, they fixed some shit and now its getting another alignment after I installed adjustable toe arms. Looking to get at least -2.5 of camber in the rear to alleviate the rubbing. If I still can't then will get some new shorter tires (305/25 or 295/25 vs 295/30 I have on there now). 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 3, 2020 Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 I assume you getting Exedy NSC581 clutch set if you have a 200mm flywheels 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 (edited) 2 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: what flywheels you have? before you order the clutch!!!!!!!!!!!!! You told me to order this one: https://www.datsunparts.com/1483 NOS Daikin NSC - 581 Edited March 3, 2020 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 3, 2020 Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 (edited) key is to make sure you have a 200mm flywheel as cars had 200mm and trucks 225mm both L20s look at the L16 flywheel and put the L20 flywheel up and see if the mating surface size the same. Edited March 3, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 I am pretty sure my L20b came out of a 610 originally then came out of a 510. So I assume its 200mm. I think I measured the one off the L20 but I will again to be sure and I can't look at my l16 flywheel because its in the truck still. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 3, 2020 Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 All 4 cylinder 5 and 6 bolt crankshaft cars are 200mm till the '82 S110 Z22 when they went to 225mm All 5 bolt L16 truck and cars are 200mm except the '74 620 which was 225mm on a 5 bolt flywheel All truck L20B, Z22 and SD (diesel) are 225mm but starting with the '83 Z24 and Z20 720 trucks, changed to 240mm. Truck flywheels tend to be heavier than car flywheels. Five bolt are interchangeable, all 6 bolt are interchangeable, so not impossible to find one that doesn't match the above. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: All 4 cylinder 5 and 6 bolt crankshaft cars are 200mm till the '82 S110 Z22 when they went to 225mm All 5 bolt L16 truck and cars are 200mm except the '74 620 which was 225mm on a 5 bolt flywheel All truck L20B, Z22 and SD (diesel) are 225mm but starting with the '83 Z24 and Z20 720 trucks, changed to 240mm. Truck flywheels tend to be heavier than car flywheels. Five bolt are interchangeable, all 6 bolt are interchangeable, so not impossible to find one that doesn't match the above. So if my L20B came out of a 610 and went into a 510 chances are its 200mm flywheel? 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 3, 2020 Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 (edited) 200mm =7 7/8 disk outer dia. so measure the disk area on the flywheel Edited March 3, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 4, 2020 Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 10 hours ago, d.p said: So if my L20B came out of a 610 and went into a 510 chances are its 200mm flywheel? YES.... if no one had replaced it. I had a 521 years ago and put an L20B in and it worked just fine. I knew nothing about the different clutches and matched release bearings. So I hear that the L20Bs had 225mm clutches and the L16 bearing won't work. WTF? Well turns out the L20B was from a car so it all went together smoothly but I didn't know this at the time. It could have been a shit show. 200mm 5 bolt. The L20B looks the same but 6 bolt. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2020 (edited) Does anyone know where I can get the rear main side seals? Fucking Riley didn’t send them and it’s the only thing I don’t have. I don’t think I can put the bottom end back together without them can I? Edited March 6, 2020 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 6, 2020 Report Share Posted March 6, 2020 All I know is, I ordered a rear main kit from Rock Auto that was supposed to come with the side seals, but the package was ripped open and only had one side in it. Maybe you’d have better luck. It was the Fel-Pro kit. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1971,521+pickup,1.6l+l4,1212321,engine,crankshaft+seal,5604 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 Thanks mang. Just ordered from Amazon. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 (edited) Do I have to measure my rocker geometry when putting my head back together? I am using the original lash pads and new rockers. Edited March 7, 2020 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 7, 2020 Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 (edited) DP if nothing was changed use the same parts in the same spot. side seals I get the Nissan ones.a good z car shop should have them. Edited March 7, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 Only think changed was a very slight mill of the head and new rockers. Everything else the same. Lash, cam, springs, valves all the same. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 7, 2020 Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 Misread. Same lash pads, same wipe pattern 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 Cool thanks guys. And I need to set valve lash according to my cam right? .006 and .008 per the picture below. Although not sure what it means when it says “set valve lash at the valve not at cam lobes?” 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 7, 2020 Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 Just do it at the rocker arm underneath. Get running you can adjust later if one gets too tight. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 7, 2020 Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 Make a feeler gauge that will fit between this lash pad (top) and the rocker arm above it. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 8, 2020 Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 (edited) I ink pen the rocker and do a wipe pattern then pull it out. Do one at a time so it’s ezer to turn the cam in the head.If everything good then I stall the rockers in ,set lash then set cam up to TDC. ps a aftermarket lash pad will be flat underneath.At least the ones I seen Edited March 8, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2020 Been buying shit to get this engine done. Bought the zcardepot valve spring compressor but haven’t had a chance to use it. Also bought Capri thin wrenches for the valve lash. Hope to have it put back together soon but have been lacking overall motivation. Maybe the warm weather and all the stuff I need to around the house has deterred me. Other than been driving my other car a lot lately. Finally got the running sorted out with a proper alignment and negative camber. Got all that done only to curb one of wheels which I never ducking do. Now I got to take the tire off and ship it to HRE to have the front barrel replaced. 2 steps forward 1 step back I guess. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted March 16, 2020 Report Share Posted March 16, 2020 For what ever its worth I am proud of you, HRE One of the best wheels on the market. Bravo 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 16, 2020 Report Share Posted March 16, 2020 Metric crow's foot wrenches work great for getting into the tight areas when doing the valve lash. Hell, just removing the damn battery first gives you plenty of room. I bought a cheap valve compressor recently and it works great. It's the OTC 4572. Amazon for $50. Quote Link to comment
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