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My 1971 521


d.p

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When I saw the tube I thought ah shit another L16 but was surprised when I saw it was an L20B.  I am happy with whatever it ends up being for $100.  Icing on the cake would have been a compatible 5 speed but it is what it is. 

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100bucks you did good. I would buy them for 100 . I sold 2 44mm sets for $1200

 

did the carb have the whole air cleaner assembly?

 

I would remove the carbs with the manifold intake as one piece not to upset the carb sync. I made a cable to pull that center arm using a support bar . I have the same set up as the one pictured and runs great. I just bolted them on and it worked. Stock cam or even aftermarket it was fine

 

get a engine stand and remove the head/front cover  and ck things out replace maybe the slack side guide and tensioner and put it back together. Most likely this motor was fine before he put the S2000 motor in.

 

the distributor looks cranked all the way to one side. Wonder if maybe the oil pump spindal was off and that why he pulled motor?

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Yeah carb has the air cleaner, at least I am pretty sure I saw it in a box.   Didn't look very hard at the angle of the dizzy but will tomorrow when I pick it up.  

 

Seller said to take anything besides wheels and tires, should I even bother grabbing anything else? I am going to buy a stand from HF but Crash said something about maybe having an issue mounting an L to an engine stand?  Something about the bolts not being long enough? 

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/750-lb-capacity-engine-stand-69887.html

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I would take any misc motor stuff. the 510 wheels diff ectwould wont need anyways as you drive 521 and thats SAE threads anyways .

distributor coil,? engine components

 

when you get the engine stand find a trans to block bolt so you can go to hardware store and find the correct thread bolts. But youll have to size length what you need.  you don't want too long. might need a big flat washers for those bolts also.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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22 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

So buy longer bolts.

 

Thanks capt. obvious. 

 

16 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I would take any misc motor stuff. the 510 wheels diff ectwould wont need anyways as you drive 521 and thats SAE threads anyways .

distributor coil,? engine components

 

when you get the engine stand find a trans to block bolt so you can go to hardware store and find the correct thread bolts. But youll have to size length what you need.  you don't want too long. might need a big flat washers for those bolts also.

 

I read somewhere that they are m10 x 1.5 and that l16 head bolts do the trick.  

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46 minutes ago, d.p said:

 I am going to buy a stand from HF but Crash said something about maybe having an issue mounting an L to an engine stand?  Something about the bolts not being long enough? 

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/750-lb-capacity-engine-stand-69887.html

 Wasnt the bolt length it was the spacing of the 4 arms that wouldnt fit.... couldn't get them close enough for the top 2 bolts....

Edited by Crashtd420
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Just now, mainer311 said:

Maybe you shouldn’t buy this, since you aren’t competent enough to do anything else.

 

I already bought it playboy so too late.  Competent enough to know that you're a fucking kook.  

 

Are just made because I got a sweet L20b with dual makunis for $100?  If so don't be mad, take it all in.  

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yes the head bolts are the same thread pitch. but of coarse were to long for my 4 prong mount.

the lower bolt holes in the block you can see thru it but actually the bolt will not go thru so that why I say youll have to kinda size length them when buying them. Youll figure it out/Of coarse depends on type of stand.

the harbor frieightone looks same as mine on link. One can turn that spindal 90degs and might work better since the 2 upper bolts are close together

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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8 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

I’m not mad. You’ll either fuck it up somehow, or give it to a shop to fuck up for you. 

 

Lol again.  Its painfully obvious you are heated but go ahead and deny it.  Ill be sure to document, whine and post a ton to give you something to bitch about.  Or can you just fuck off and continue making your truck look like shit.  😎

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1 minute ago, mainer311 said:

I’ll be patiently waiting for this L20b to end up in your truck. Until then, it’s moot.

 

Like you go better shit to do.  If it doesn't happen just keep waiting ok? 

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1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

Boy you guys are comedy today....

 

I aim to please. 

 

1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

use this motor as a learning tool. Re gasked and new head gasket and I bet it runs fine.  Might even have a cam in there for those sidedrafts. That's a EZ 15-20 HP to the ground right there

 

Word. 

 

42 minutes ago, bilzbobaggins said:

And if you have room, take every last damn thing that hundo gets you.  If you dont have room, make room. 🙂  Its tough being on this coast.

 

I got room but hate hoarding shit at any cost.    But you are right its tough being on the east coast and owning a 521.  Very rarely does anything of value come up and when it does I tend to jump on it.  For instance I got a matchbox dizzy for $120 and its the only one I have seen for sale on the east coast in the past 3 years.  There was another L20B block all taken apart that the guy wanted $300 for and I passed on it.  I figured if I waited long enough something would show up eventually.   I did notice there seems to be some good parts in GA, a guy is willing to sell me a metal 520 dash down there but has been busy and hasn't been able to ship it yet.   Is that you by chance?  

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I have a engine stand similar to that one and have had no issues using it on L blocks, but I had to remove the flywheel or use spacers.

Here is a photo of a slightly heavier duty stand I have with rather large spacers on it to hold an A series engine on with the flywheel still connected as I wanted to run the engine while on that stand.

004.jpg

I actually used a engine lift on that engine as a backup in case the spacer bolts broke, I ran the engine on that stand, I made another adjustable engine run stand after that, the engine is running in the photo below.

002.jpg

Edited by wayno
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 Crash and I were just talking about running this engine on a stand to do a compression test.   Having said that not sure I would feel comfortable doing that on my $50 HF stand.  I figure I would just take the head and TC off and have a look at everything.  Get the head rebuilt if needed and go from there.  

Edited by d.p
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I was wrong, the engine is not running in that second photo, but I did run them both on them stands, the plate was strong enough to hold the starter in place, not sure the L block plate is strong enough.

It is running in this photo below as you cannot see the flywheel teeth.

001.jpg

 

Edited by wayno
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