My 1971 521

[d.p]

I think my parking brake shit the bed. Went to release it today and it had no tension.  I had to pop the hood and push the lever/arm down to get it to release.  Now there is so much tension from the handle but a ton of slack on the wire under the truck before the Y.   Anyone know what could cause this?  I can’t even move the lever/arm ( the one attaches to the brake wire and frame) in the engine bay. It’s frozen or stuck.   I can't pull on the parking brake at all because the arm/lever on other side of the firewall isn't moving at all.  

 

 

 

 

Edited April 24, 2019 by d.p

[d.p]

Welp I fixed this, just popped the pin out of the level/arm and adjusted the turn buckle thing out (towards the front) and put it all back together and its working again.  

 

Dunno why it stopped but its fixed now. 

 

 

[d.p]

Got a line a KA24DE + 5spd tranny, ECU, harness and other shit for $200.  Welll $250 delivered.  It spins but no idea about compression or anything like that.  I figure for $250 its worth taking a shot with it.   My plan would be to rebuild it anyway so what is the worst that can happen?  

 

[mainer311]

The KA’s are very easy to rebuild, assuming it wasn’t raped by some young kid before you get it. I always wanted to build a KA24E-T, single OHC. Simple engine and the bottom end is pretty stout and holds up well to low boost.

[BrothersGarage]

Siiiiiiiick KA time. 

[Charlie69]

5 hours ago, d.p said:

Got a line a KA24DE + 5spd tranny, ECU, harness and other shit for $200.  Welll $250 delivered.  It spins but no idea about compression or anything like that.  I figure for $250 its worth taking a shot with it.   My plan would be to rebuild it anyway so what is the worst that can happen?  

 

What year and model is it?

[mainer311]

Looks like early S13 judging on the swept under intake manifold.

[d.p]

Dunno the year all I know is it spins freely and It came out of a ‘drift missle.’  Been reading about KA24DE swaps and losing your bench seat depending on what the tranny came out of?  Anyone know firsthand? 

Edited April 22, 2019 by d.p

[mainer311]

Engine sounds abused. Buyer beware. Was “drift missile” your term or theirs?

[Charlie69]

10 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Looks like early S13 judging on the swept under intake manifold.

So from your experience mariner311, would that make it OBD1?

[mainer311]

4 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

So from your experience mariner311, would that make it OBD1?

 

Yes, most likely.

[d.p]

12 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Engine sounds abused. Buyer beware. Was “drift missile” your term or theirs?

 

Haha theirs man.  

[d.p]

Never heard back from the KA24DE dude so search continues. 

 

Still driving this fucker a ton, rented an aerator with it,  got a yard of mulch as well and bunch more wood and hog panels for my fence.   

 

[BrothersGarage]

With a truck that looks that nice, I would hope it sees a lot of road time. Stunner.

[d.p]

Working on my garage now, got the slab laid and getting ideas for closing it and garage doors.  Blessed to finally have a flat surface again to work on my cars.  Good thing I moved right before winter so there wasn't much motivation to do anything.  

 

[d.p]

Still looking for an upgrade to my l16.  KA Didn’t work out and tanker has an SSS head so wondering what would make a good build using a v912 head?  

 

I have ave a spare l16 block and anything else is hard to come by on the east coast.  

[d.p]

Another 912 head but needs some love. 

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183841877462

[datzenmike]

That head looks like it was really milled down so might work. Closed chamber heads have a larger combustion chamber than the stock L16 head so the compression would be lower. Like 8.21, but like I say that looks milled down. The correct thickness from the valve cover surface down to the head gasket surface is 4. 248" Ask what that one it.

[d.p]

Yeah not buying that one. Tanker has a NOS for sale and I am wondering what a streetable build with one of those heads would be. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

If I could do a L motor again I would go L20 with the big port head dual carbs. All I had at the time 20yrs ago was a over abundand supply of L16 motors so I build that first.Never done one before. Then found out these motors are so EZ that I wish I did a L20.

 

I had a 510 with built L20 by the previous owner I could pull away from a Dodge Corenet with a 440. The guy was like WTF you got.

 

Building a L 16/L20 is good to get the vehicle running but cost is the same to build a L20.

Edited June 19, 2019 by banzai510(hainz)

[d.p]

L20 with what head though?  Had a line on a L20 short block locally but was lazy and didn't pick it up and of course it sold.  

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Closed chamber head would be best of coarse. But one can find a A87(rare for closed chamber) or W53 closed chamber and match port the intakes. Closed chambers are less prone to detonation which I like and I run cheap gas and have no proplems.  The U67 L20 I think would be fine also

Here in Washington they are still somewhat common and I wouldn't pay to much for a core. maybe 100bucks for a used that was aon a running motor so you know its wasn't crack or bent( wait for a guy putting in a KA/SR motor)

 

I think just a stock L20 head/block with a cam, matchported with 40mm s you will notice the obvious difference compared to L16/18

why I say this if somebody wants $500 or more for a SSS/V912 head you could put that 500 towards the cam carb matchport setup. only to get half compression more.

[d.p]

Thanks Hainz.  

 

[Crashtd420]

Just get some nitrous and you ll have all the extra power you need.... 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

16 hours ago, datzenmike said:

That head looks like it was really milled down so might work. Closed chamber heads have a larger combustion chamber than the stock L16 head so the compression would be lower. Like 8.21, but like I say that looks milled down. The correct thickness from the valve cover surface down to the head gasket surface is 4. 248" Ask what that one it.

Strange that he didn't list a thickness measurement in the ad.

 

Probably an old GT4 race head, and if it is, why would it have been disassembled and thrown in the spares pile? Most race engine builders know how to repair damaged heads, so if this one went into the pile, it may be too far gone.