My 1971 521

[d.p]

Crash pointed out that I would need the trans to run it on a stand.  I can get it but not sure it’s worth it when I could just do a leak down test and not even grab the trans.  

[bilzbobaggins]

1 hour ago, d.p said:

I got room but hate hoarding shit at any cost.    But you are right its tough being on the east coast and owning a 521.  Very rarely does anything of value come up and when it does I tend to jump on it.  For instance I got a matchbox dizzy for $120 and its the only one I have seen for sale on the east coast in the past 3 years.  There was another L20B block all taken apart that the guy wanted $300 for and I passed on it.  I figured if I waited long enough something would show up eventually.   I did notice there seems to be some good parts in GA, a guy is willing to sell me a metal 520 dash down there but has been busy and hasn't been able to ship it yet.   Is that you by chance?  

 

That is not me with a metal dash top for sale.  I do have one setting in the garage tho that is slated to go in mine, as well as another valence to fix my fubar one.  There is a matchbox dizzy at the pull a part now, but the timing advance plate is frozen shut so I passed on it.  I do understand the hoarding thing, its an easy thing to get started on.  And im like you, I jump when things that are good show up.

[banzai510(hainz)]

compression test?

I find them overrated. mostly

Ezer to ask the owner why they pulled the motor.

Bust open the head and ck the valves for cracks or tight valves.

 

I would pull the carbs with the manifold off.

then get on stand and put crank to Zero TDC and check the timming on the head(cam) distributor(rotor)

then pop the head and do a crack check.

regasket , new tensioner, slack side guide

 

depending on the block bores maybe do nothing and if head good just regasket it call it good !!!!!

 

 

Most be  like he was a Rich guy that wanted something faster and pulled the L motor out. He wasn't a Hoarder either and just wants it gone.

Unfortunatly hoarding parts is a must on a 521 for certain things. otherwise youll have a broke truck. they are pushing 45 yrs old. Believe me a Newer Audi isn't going to last that long before the owner goes broke. German car owners get a new car when the last payment is hit. then get another car.

 

 

take photos of the cam also and back of it maybe its a performance cam and valve set up

 

Edited July 11, 2019 by banzai510(hainz)

[thisismatt]

4 hours ago, d.p said:

 

I aim to please. 

 

 

Word. 

 

 

I got room but hate hoarding shit at any cost.    But you are right its tough being on the east coast and owning a 521.  Very rarely does anything of value come up and when it does I tend to jump on it.  For instance I got a matchbox dizzy for $120 and its the only one I have seen for sale on the east coast in the past 3 years.  There was another L20B block all taken apart that the guy wanted $300 for and I passed on it.  I figured if I waited long enough something would show up eventually.   I did notice there seems to be some good parts in GA, a guy is willing to sell me a metal 520 dash down there but has been busy and hasn't been able to ship it yet.   Is that you by chance?  

 

If he'll sell the dash you should see if he has the metal parcel tray too...and metal door pull handles.

[d.p]

I didn't even know 520s had metal door pulls but I bought one of those plastic repop parcel trays the dude made on FB so I am good there.   I really just want a new dash or better a new dash pad.  Dude had the shop drop an S2000 motor and 240sx suspension into his 510, wouldn't tell me how much it cost but I he said it wasn't cheap.  I understand hoarding shit I might need... I got a spare timing cover, l16 pan, l16 block, l16 oil pickup, spare dizzy, alternator, starter and some other smaller shit.  

 

Got another line on a 5 speed from a 77 620 that is 31" long.   Would that mate to this L20 and would it allow me to keep the bench seat?  

[thisismatt]

Yeah, same, or at least close enough, as roadster pulls.  

[datzenmike]

The 521 takes a 26" 4 speed. The 620 4 and 5 speeds after '73 were 31.5" long so you would need a shorter front driveshaft.

 

Will it bolt to an L20B? ALL L series transmissions will physically bolt to ALL L series 4 and 6 cylinders... not that you would ever want to.... they just have the same bolt pattern.

 

The stock 4 speed and a 71B 4 or 5 speed are close to the same shifter location, but that's about all that's close.  I did this in my 710... going from a 26" to a 71B that's 31.5" long and it still fits the hole in the floor. Maybe an inch or so further back.

[d.p]

Got the engine, radiator, starter, heater, coil, leather shift knob and some misc shit.  Didnt get the trans or anything else.  Plan on pulling the head/clutch/tc and flywheel off to get a good look at things..  Need to get it out of my truck first though.  

 

L20b

U60 head appears to have been shaved at some point

Racer brown cam SS-54 383 - 67

dual 40 Mikunis w/filters

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 12, 2019 by d.p

[Crashtd420]

Make sure you mark the clutch and flywheel, and crank... you wanna put them back the way they came off....

Nice score....

[banzai510(hainz)]

Dude You made out like a bandit. I bet thet motor will start right up as is. You don't even have to take it apart!!!!!!!  pressure wash it! Done

[Crashtd420]

Ya that shop had no idea what they were selling..... sounds like they didnt care either, just wanted it gone......

 

In the back of my head I'm wondering why the 510 guy didnt want it.....

I know he upgraded but why!!!

 

[d.p]

Yeap.  Shop had no idea and the owner could care less as he doesn't need the money.  

 

I'd like to clean it up before I make any attempt to drop it in my truck.  I also need a couple things like throttle cable and bolts for the air filters.  First and foremost I need to get it out of my truck.  I figured if I take the intake/cars and the clutch/flywheel off it will make it easier without a picker.  

 

Also it looks like the linkage could use some help as one place has the c clips and the other is just using electrical tape to keep the plastic from sliding.  

 

Can see it here between the bottom two 'arms':

 

Edited July 12, 2019 by d.p

[banzai510(hainz)]

that bushing always comes out of the rod on the linkage. I just double bubble the bushing in there. Or you can do the outside of it incase you can take it off later

 

I bet the guy was rich and just abandon the motor as he didn't want to clutter his place as L  motors  start growing on you and you just have to dump them after awhile.At least here in Rainey Pacific North West.

 

If you don't have a engine hoist then yes take the carbs off so it don't hit the ground as it is kinda cheap pop metal. and don't want to shatter or bend stuff up.

I would PB Blaster the carb bolts intake and lower exhaust manifold bolts. PS don't loose the washers for them.. Leave the carbs as a whole units with the intake as most like you can just bolt it back on and will run.

 

as for the cable linkage  make a L bracket on top of the carb with a cable thru clamp set up(there might be a kit).   You might need a longer cable but the 521 cable might work.  and the arm in the middle, there is a wire set up where your put the wire thru and screw holds it in then locktite it(looks like that part is missing but mikuni might still have this. Or could be a ball set up as you have that goes around the ball and cable pulls it.But mine was a wire thru a hole set up..

I went to junk yard and scamed different cable set up but then Ichouse got me a Mazda set up I think

 

 

that air cleaner set up there are 2 butterfly shaped screws/bolts and should have safety wirse holedrill in them. One can use a spring set up so the bolts don't back off and fall out or just run safety wire between them(pulls tension on both butterfly bolt) . Since its a K&N I will assume its a SAE thread

 

Edited July 12, 2019 by banzai510(hainz)

[d.p]

Yeah guy I got it from is well off for sure, principal architect up in Baltimore. 

 

Got it torn down for the most part.  Only one bolt gave me a hard time and it was the middle one on the exhaust manifold.  Everything else broke loose super easy.  Got the intake and carbs off in 1 piece,  pressure plate off and the crank bolt was already loose before I touched it.  Which means I can get the TC off as well without much trouble.  Dizzy (clocked all the way to advanced), alternator, thermostat and water intake off as well.  Just need to get the flywheel off and then get it on the stand.  Oh the oil filter (wix) is on like a motherfucker so might have to get a wrench to get that off.   Pull the spark plugs and they are dark as night and look old (BR5xxx IIRC).  Whomever owned this prior to the guy I bought it from obviously knew what they were doing.  

 

As far as the carbs go that is down the road but can you take a picture of your throttle setup?  I don't have a return spring either and not exactly clear on how all that works with these things.  I would like to run stacks eventually because I like that look.  Oh and any idea what size the bolt is that holds the filters to the carb?  I don't have those.  

Edited July 12, 2019 by d.p

[mrbigtanker]

11 hours ago, d.p said:

Got the engine, radiator, starter, heater, coil, leather shift knob and some misc shit.  Didnt get the trans or anything else.  Plan on pulling the head/clutch/tc and flywheel off to get a good look at things..  Need to get it out of my truck first though.  

 

L20b

U60 head appears to have been shaved at some point

Racer brown cam SS-54 383 - 67

dual 40 Mikunis w/filters

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Man those bumpers look good. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

the carbs have 2 springs on each side and that might be enough as returns springs to pull a cable linkage back as I don't run a extra return spring.  Only thing you need it a center mount to put the cable thru to HOLD it when you pull the cable.   My cable is smooth at the end so I made a sqeeze clamp set up. 521s use a threaded cable end so one can use Jam nuts( think you your current 521 system and make a version of that.  Key is have a nice smooth archso the cable don't drag too much and most like the springs on the carbs will be good enough

 

as for sparks being blacken. My 510 w44s(which I sold) is black but ran fine. my 510 with40s are nice and brown..  I wouldn't worry to much unless it worn rings.

 

as for the distribtutor being advance a lot it might be Ok as one runs more advance and not know if he previos engine builder had the distributor curved or something. Most times intial adv is about 12-15deg. Plus you have a Red Pertronix module which is a better version they made later. I still run the balck ones myself.

 

I would have kept the lower thermost housing on there as a lot of people put the wrong bolt back In and it ends up pushing the timming chain guide. I just take the cap off to put another stat in there and clean the screws up or find stainless one and use antiseize on there.  also on the longer water pump bolts, matter of fact ll of them as they seem to corrode the most.

 

 

the red valve retainer look like they disk sanded the top as the lash pads sunk in more meaning he needed to use shorter lash pads which is fine. I would not dissaemble this unless you have a burned or cracked valve.  Be honest I would clean it up and just regasket it. chain tensioner slack side guide and run it. this will keep the cost down.

same the clutch parts to find out the size. if is a 200m or a 225 incase. if 200 then you can keep the 521 T/O bearing and sleave and put a 200mm  Roadster clutch in there

 

when I do my motors I leave the exhaust manifold hooked up to the Y pipe as I know those bolts will break and just push it over to the side. However since you have a L20 the exhaust will come up about 3/4 of a inch. So maybe keep that one on the moto as a manifold and Y pipe as a set  incase you need it later.

 

I will take a photo of my linakge but I'm sure there is a kit also out there. I don't have computer access all the time. be honest take your time your truck runs fine as it is. I want to go fast also But I drive my truck as a daily and I'm old and don't like working on things as much. But I have the resources(lots of parts) to get it done if needed

[d.p]

I did grab a couple cables when I got the motor and it looks like I did get the throttle cable.  They return too on their own so I think I have everything minus the bolts for the air cleaners.  But gain I would love to just run stacks but not sure what all that entails. 

 

 

 

Wont worry to much about the plugs but they are one step hotter than the ones I run in my truck..5 vs 6.   I took the thermostat  housing off because it was nasty and I am going to replace it with a new one, will make sure I use the right bolts.  I labeled and bagged everything I took off so hopefully no issue putting it all back together.  

 

I am going to take the head, pan and TC off at the very least so I can get a good look and clean it.  Maybe install one of those tensioners that doesn't pop out:  http://datnissparts.com/nismo-l4-naps-z-chain-tensioner-l16-l18-l20b-z20-z22-z24-13070-n7120/ . Cost isn't an issue either I just want a refreshed and new to me motor. 

 

Looks like I do need a new PP + clutch but haven't measured it yet, anyone recommend one?  I left the y-pipe and exhaust manifold attached because those studs are rusted to hell like they usually are.     PP and clutch seen better days:

 

 

 

 

Got it on the stand after fcuking with it for an hour or so.  In the end had to jack up my truck high enough to get the engine plate lined up with the stand.   Also went and bought some 10x1.50mm 3" bolts as the head bolts were just too long.  Worked out great. 

 

No  mechanical fuel pump or fuel pump for that matter and what is the hose coming off the hole where the oil sending unit goes?  

 

 

 

 

Edited July 13, 2019 by d.p

[Crashtd420]

That oil tube is probably for a pressure gauge mounted some where..... unless you happen to have a spray bar inside the valve cover..... 

 

I was gonna suggest this piece of jewelry for the timing chain till I saw the price... .

 

Says it was $799....... no thanks...

[d.p]

Lol Tanker has that on his new L20b and said its probably going to be loud.  $500 down from $800.  Yawn . No spray bar so I am going to assume it was for an oil pressure gauge.  

Edited July 13, 2019 by d.p

[banzai510(hainz)]

Yes that cable looks like ti will work. just find the screw that it will bolt to.

 

What you mean running stack?

Just take the bolts off the airhorns to take the back cover off. then put your red/ black  socks over them

 

the flywheel needs to be machine flat. Maybe that why the high center ring around that.

[banzai510(hainz)]

OH PS.

I'm not sure if that cable mount goes on the fuel jets cover. Those are very fragile and once stripped your FUCKd. I think I used one on the lower body so you then just loosen the center bar link over to get that nice straight pull. Soemone else has to help me out on this one as I don't think that is right.

[d.p]

It looks to be where it was mounted, that screw was loose and you can see where its worn from being mounted there prior.  Just looking it at it all it makes sense that is where it would be, not sure where else I could mount it and still reach that center arm and allow it pull towards the front of the carbs.  But if anyone has suggestions on where else to mount it I am all ears. 

 

In regards to the stacks I was wanting to run longer ones, does length matter? Ill get the flywheel checked for flatness as well.  

 

 

Edited July 13, 2019 by d.p

[Crashtd420]

Wait to make that decision on the stacks you may end up with clearance issues on the rear one and the brake master.....

And you'll still want an air filter of some sort.....

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I have the same size stacks as you call them(airhorns)  I wouldn't waist you money on them unless its a bling thing your worried about.

You have a short Mikuni manifold and you can run longer ones and maybe run short sock of some kind.

 

I would go find a misc bolt that threads into the airfilter housing then get some bolts and drill a safety wire hole in them so you can run the filters.

be honest my 44s I had I couldn't run filters and just ran them like that

 

save this NSC 581  clutch kit for 200mm flywheel buy2

https://www.datsunparts.com/Clutch

Edited July 13, 2019 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

On 7/12/2019 at 11:06 AM, Crashtd420 said:

Make sure you mark the clutch and flywheel, and crank... you wanna put them back the way they came off....

Nice score....

 

All Nissan parts are balanced individually. This way new parts off the shelf or parts from one engine can be swapped to another without vibration. It can't hurt but not really necessary.

 

48 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

 

In regards to the stacks I was wanting to run longer ones, does length matter?

 

 

 

In VERY general terms, short or no 'stacks' favors top RPM while longer improves low and mid range. More important is that the ends are flared like a trumpet which will smooth the in rushing air and breath better.

 

I should have dumpster dived, but bought an 18" long piece of muffler pipe for $10 and hammered out four of these in twenty minutes. Took longer to cut them and file down the burs. Just a ball peen hammer and a rounded edge to help shape them. Exhaust pipe is soft.

 

 

 

The end result. I want to modify an old ZX air box to fit the car so these will end up shorter to fit the hood.

 

 

Will it improve things? Lets just say it's better than nothing on the carbs.