Icehouse Posted September 1, 2008 Report Share Posted September 1, 2008 Looks great!!! Yeah break likes suck! We almost finished up Dillons and it took us all day!! WOW!! What a job!! Quote Link to comment
datsunbat Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 The 510...I enjoy a lot this model!!! It will be my next restoration project!!! I'll keep my eyes on your excelent ! Very good the way you work!!! Best restoration for you!!! Cumps. M Quote Link to comment
b210in Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 i love the motor you chose. 510's with sr swaps are a dime a dozen. Quote Link to comment
xyzalvarez Posted September 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Looks great!!! Yeah break likes suck! We almost finished up Dillons and it took us all day!! WOW!! What a job!! yeah man ...the suckiest is when you already bent a brake line almost perfect.. then you're going to flare it...and then the flare goes wrong...or even worse : chopped. !!!!! :( The 510...I enjoy a lot this model!!! It will be my next restoration project!!! I'll keep my eyes on your excelent ! Very good the way you work!!! Best restoration for you!!! Cumps. M Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 BLASTPHEMY!!!!!!! nah j/k thats a cool swap, atleast everyone an they're mom hasnt done it yet.. keep the pics up! Quote Link to comment
b210in Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 nice build so far. you might consider removing the the engine and tranny and then outlining the bottom of your new tranny pan, cut it and weld it. it would make it a lot stronger. also if you want to bend a big piece of sheet metal, you can always use a blow torch and steel table to do it, works pretty good. just curious, what kind of rear gear are you planning to run? Quote Link to comment
xyzalvarez Posted September 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2008 BLASTPHEMY!!!!!!!nah j/k thats a cool swap, atleast everyone an they're mom hasnt done it yet.. keep the pics up! HaHA..i thought it...lol! nice build so far. you might consider removing the the engine and tranny and then outlining the bottom of your new tranny pan, cut it and weld it. it would make it a lot stronger. also if you want to bend a big piece of sheet metal, you can always use a blow torch and steel table to do it, works pretty good. just curious, what kind of rear gear are you planning to run? i dont get it? outlining the tranny pan?...sorry i never heard of that before.. but thanks for the torch tip... and about the rear gear, for now stock 510.. but i just score a vLSD 3.90...i know i have to deal with mayor fab...but mostly this proyect is,....haha , theres no part that haven't gone under, drill, weld, cut, trim, mod...hahah.. btw UPS bring me my fart can today..hopefully i can get a deep tone..not so raspy.. also the motor is in!! and the radiator fit just right...the clearance between the hood and rad is about 2"..! im good! Quote Link to comment
xyzalvarez Posted September 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 well..just updating... got a Vlsd and some extra stubs...trying to get it in next weeks ... installed my new driveshaft. also my friend sold me a new set of Eclipse rear shocks.. modified them just a little...the first one was a PITA, but the second one, installed in an hour...basically just grind the lower part of the shock eyelet to match the dime width. and to the upper part , i just added another bushing. the DSM is 1" short..thats why i added the extra bushing. nothing bad for 50$ and an afternoon in the garage. Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 I have to ask, did you use the front x-member in the same configuration of the picture from you first post? If so I would have serious fears about the strength of it, and seeing as its a integral part of the front structure, its not something that I would skimp on. Quote Link to comment
xyzalvarez Posted September 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 I have to ask, did you use the front x-member in the same configuration of the picture from you first post? If so I would have serious fears about the strength of it, and seeing as its a integral part of the front structure, its not something that I would skimp on. left some 1" square tubing ( same as front) in the back but is not welded yet. basically the motor is sitting as a regular FWD motor, even thou you made a point i will not skimp on it...maybe it's time to complete the rear side of the crossmember.. theres another guy who did it almost the same way, and theres no issues reported by now. but ill try to beef it more... maybe welding a bottom plate will help too..i have to check on clearances later. thanks for your input.. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted September 8, 2008 Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 ya man that'd suck to be haulin some ass down the road an all the sudden have your engine twist itself free an fall through the bottom of your car.. Quote Link to comment
xyzalvarez Posted September 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2008 yeah! basically its sitting the same as any L motor, depending on the motor mounts. the only thing thats jacked up is the crossmember. the pic posted was the basic cut from the xmember. I'm planning to add another rear reinforment. btw i just work on my vlsd these past days...long story short...all machine shops i went, they feared to work on the hubs, grind a groove around in order to accept the C clip from the vlsd. finally i decided to do it by myself...did a small search, found another guy who did it..and made a trip to home depot...bought some metal disks and use my bench drill.....and some 45 min later the groove is done. I will post some pics later.... Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted September 13, 2008 Report Share Posted September 13, 2008 VLSD's have one extra long stub to engage. Stock 510 stubs aren't long enough to properly work. They'll "work" but you'll end up with an otherwise open diff. Quote Link to comment
Phlebmaster Posted September 13, 2008 Report Share Posted September 13, 2008 I can't wait to see more...keep us posted!!:) Quote Link to comment
xyzalvarez Posted September 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2008 VLSD's have one extra long stub to engage. Stock 510 stubs aren't long enough to properly work. They'll "work" but you'll end up with an otherwise open diff. there was another member who used to have a 2002 wrx ( vlsd ), and he reported that the datsun hub shafts and the wrx r160 are the same lenght. the only thing he mentioned is that he lathe the nut in order to avoid hitting the center of the diff. how the vlsd stub engage? i had the impression that works on oil mostly. i tried to get some pics from nasioc and other subies forums ..but nothing i can really take as info. also the guy sold a couple of sets with no issues... im not being stubborn, but it works just fine and better than the one wheel wonder diff. not the greatest lsd but best bang for the buck..i guess. I can't wait to see more...keep us posted!!:) yeah me too! haha...but right now im dealing with harness and wiring...nothing fun with it...i snap some pics..but they look boooooring. basically i only need to install the new diff if it works right and look for a front sway bar for it...i think i custom sway bar is needed...dagn! Quote Link to comment
xyzalvarez Posted September 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 well well.. i lot of stuff happen this last week... first i got my Vlsd hubs done... after browsing around for machine shops to do it...and get refused, because all were scared of the hubs being a strong metal no lathe / cnc machine can deal with it... BS! finally decided to do it myself, take some dims, get a cut off wheel off homedepot, use my bench drill and voila! my hubs now have the "GroovE " i have pics of the process, and fits right on the vlsd. at least will improve the handling compare with one wheel wonder... also you can get a wrx vlsd for 200 - 350 $ and other thing it will open the way to use an aftermarket LSD in the future,,, the hubs from the wrx are the same lenght...same as the 510 hubs...and theres no " switch" to make them work... ( spend several hours browing wrx and sti forums for vlsd..) it gets on action by oil .... long story short, next day i finished my Vlsd hubs...i score another LSD ! so i have to sell my Vlsd ( sold it in 4 days ) and now i have a clutch LSD intalled.... pretty straight forward installation, but a headache removing the oil bolt !!! 150 psi and the dang oil bolt didnt budge! so i drilled it out! finally.... Also just finished my dime /s2k cluster... hope i can work on the harness next week. Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 looks good man!!! Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 do you have pics of how you did it? what year dash was it originally? Quote Link to comment
xyzalvarez Posted September 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 do you have pics of how you did it? what year dash was it originally? had some pics..but then i erased them...nothing big.. its a stock 510 cluster, i used my dremel to cut the stock " gauge bezels " and tried to make it even on the cut. then i used fiber glass to create a solid base. left the stock holes for the screws to install it at the same place. then i used one epoxy cartridge to create an " even surface " dremel the back of the cluster bezel to make it flush with the s2k cluster. ordered some kevlar sheet, just for the fun of it... and take some dimentions several times before cutting it. glued to a sheet of plexiglass for strenght. then in the back i epoxy some extra brackets to the bezel to hold the new cluster in. some plastic paint to cover scratches and voila! cluster done. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted September 24, 2008 Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 sweeeeeeet i need a spare 610 cluster to play with Quote Link to comment
STEVEN Posted September 27, 2008 Report Share Posted September 27, 2008 I dig this project build. Not sure if this has been posted about - Out of curiousity, what direction does the crank of the s2k rotate? clockwise like most motors or anti-clockwise like other honda motors? Keep up the great work. Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted September 27, 2008 Report Share Posted September 27, 2008 clockwise, all current honda motors spin clockwise now. :D Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted September 27, 2008 Report Share Posted September 27, 2008 You're doing a great job on this, can't wait to see it finished! Is the speedo on the s2k cluster digital or something? I've never been in one before... I first saw your custom cluster pic and was like, "What? He's only got a tach huh?" lol Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted September 27, 2008 Report Share Posted September 27, 2008 might i ask what is the point in the tips being different sizes? Quote Link to comment
heirfaus Posted September 27, 2008 Report Share Posted September 27, 2008 So I know it was earlier in the post but I wanted to note if you do not have direct contact with the fuel the JB weld should be ok. I used JBweld in my fuel tank and on the top. I had direct fuel contact in both areas. I followed the instructions on the package and even roughed the surface with sandpaper and thoroughly cleaned it up before applying. It took a long time, maybe a year, but eventually my car wouldn't start. I found my fuel pressure guage ready at about 13 psi. I pulled my tank and the JB on top around the opening was a little week and separated. The JB in the tank was like playdoh. I could squish and bend it all over. I redid it with quick steel which is made for fuel tank, repairs among other things. Anyways... your project is AWESOME. I love motor swaps. I prefer house brand motors but any finished motor swap is a good one in my book:) Keep the pics coming this is going to be a great project thread:thumbsup: Quote Link to comment
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