1966 Datsun 520 Shop Truck

[AlliedPerformance]

Haven't had much time for the Datsun lately. Been through a couple different carrier bearings to find one that works. The reverse gear parts are with the machinist and the water jetter now. I'll post some pics when I get them back. Decided to go ahead and do the body work and put a new front end in all at once rather than later down the road. I found some time to pull the truck completely apart the other night. Im planning on having everything completed by the end of winter, sooner would be better though! This week I'll be molding the dash/gauge panel inserts and prepping the body if I can find some time.

And one of the reasons the Datsun hasn't been getting much attention. Just finishing up on the frame got it welded and off the jig last week. It will be on the backburner for a bit which should free some time up for my truck. Don't mind the acetone ride height gauge up front lol.

 

[Connisuer311]

Awesomeness

[AlliedPerformance]

Been making some slow progress. I sold a truck this week and against my better judgement I've been putting all the profit into the Datsun. I picked up an EFI R1 engine if I decide I want EFI over the Hilborn mechanical injection. The EFI would be a bit easier to tune with a turbo... Either way it's a turnkey motor so I'll save the time of building a motor as I was initially planning. Still waiting on the machinist to finish the driveline parts but we have a good solution drafted up now. Most of my free time has been spent stripping and smoothing the exterior panels. Sorry to all the patina lovers! I got some 16x8 wheels and threw on some tires I had at the shop to test fit. I ordered a Wilwood tandem master cylinder and fittings for the brake system, most the heim joints for the front end, a bunch of fittings for the fuel system, an aluminum radiator, and steering column and wheel. I'd really like to get some time to go to the junk yard and look around at spindles as the setup I was planning on getting has been discontinued. I have all the stock wiring, front suspension parts, 4-spd transmission parts, and brake parts that Id give free to anyone who is actually going to use it. Im ditching all the original mechanical pieces save for the rear axle so let me know, I'd be happy to help.

 

[Eagle_Adam]

drool......

 

 

 

this will be fun to watch!

[EricJB]

You had me at front end dragster. Do you build these? I may need one.

 

[Boxcar]

I dig the Digger.

Used the "E" reverce set up in a few Gixer powerd sand cars we have built. Works pretty well .

 Am interested to se how this turns out.

What clutch are you planning to run?  In my mind , that will be the week link.

[AlliedPerformance]

Eric - Yes, I build them. That's a 142" Kent Fuller style. I designed the chassis in Solidworks and do all the fabrication in house other than the axle and motor plates which are CNC water jet cut locally. It's all chromoly and the upper and lower rails are each bent from a single length of tube, no cut and splice like many I've seen. I've been wanting one for myself but I know better than to start a new project before the Datsun is completed! Feel free to call, my number is on the first page of the thread.

 

I am planning on running the stock clutch plates with two diaphragm springs. I'm doing that for increased weight at the pedal since the linkage has such a large mechanical advantage. I know theres several sturdier aftermarket clutches for the R1 too so that's an option if need be.

[AlliedPerformance]

If only I was independently wealthy I could close the doors and work on my toys all the time! The Datsun is on the back burner as usual but I was able to make a little progress. I picked up hardbody brakes and spindles for the front and got the frame and rear axle epoxy painted. Turns out the hardbody spindles use a very common upper and lower balljoint taper and also happen to use the same taper at the tie rods as the Miata rack Im using. The removable steering arms means I can set what ever ackerman I want, nice! Unfortunately with the wheels I bought the scrub radius will be more than I would like but I think it will be OK. Also, I got the pieces back from the machinist for the reverse gear. There's a lot of work ahead but I'm still shooting for having it done around late February-March. 

 

 

If you guys like diggers maybe you'll like this? I was thinking about getting that same steering wheel for the Datsun. It's a shot-peened bare aluminum sprint car wheel. 

 

 

 

[mrbigtanker]

Looking good. :thumbup:

[AlliedPerformance]

Last week I got after the truck again. Still in the mock-up phase but at least im making headway! I media blasted the cab, installed the driveshaft adapter and front driveshaft, fabricated most of the electric the reverser mount and x-member, and started building the front suspension. I ran all the numbers on the front end and have designed a geometry that should work well while untilizing the original lower pick up points and hardbody spindle. I also designed some aluminum spacers that allow a 3/4" heim joint to be used in the original lower control arm mount after cutting out the bushing sleeve. They're the stepped pieces in the pic. If anyone would be interested in those I could turn some more. I'll post more pictures later..

 

 

 

 

[BlackBird620]

Yay progress

[AlliedPerformance]

[zed1]

Great photo.

[Eagle_Adam]

bare metal is so sexy.... 

 

 

 

fap fap fap 

[Cpl620]

god, i wish i had the tools to mill out that metal out. looking good.

[Farmer Joe]

so whats up with that lower control arm setup you got going there? 

 

looks interesting!

[wayno]

I am guessing it has something that looks like a tierod for a lower balljoint.

Need more photos to know for sure.

[AlliedPerformance]

Its a fairly standard design. The radius rod uses a ball joint like an inner tie rod at the front and a clevis at the rear. The lower control arm uses a 3/4" heim joint at the inner pivot and a chrysler full size ball joint at the outer end. The upper arm, which im still building, will have a chrysler ball joint and two 1/2" heims. The lower arm and radius rod are made from chromoly tube.

[wayno]

Its a fairly standard design. The radius rod uses a ball joint like an inner tie rod at the front and a clevis at the rear. The lower control arm uses a 3/4" heim joint at the inner pivot and a chrysler full size ball joint at the outer end. The upper arm, which im still building, will have a chrysler ball joint and two 1/2" heims. The lower arm and radius rod are made from chromoly tube.

 

I just was making a guess at what the inner balljoint might look like, I was not being negative in any way.

I am watching this build, it is how I get ideas for my builds, I have done nothing that is original, I copy others ideas when I see a good one.

This truck is going to be light, lighter than any 520 I have ever seen to date, wish I was closer, I would like to take a ride in it when finished.

[AlliedPerformance]

No sweat Wayno! Im trying to "add lightness" where I can.

[Tommy1300]

I’ve inherited my father in law’s 1967 Datsun 1300 pickup! It’s been retrofitted with a 1600cc engine and has a 4 spd standard. That’s where the problem lies, I’m a partial paraplegic and can’t use a clutch! What would be a option for me to do a auto transmission swap?

[pidge]

Cool truck man. Pretty sure you have got a ‘69 521 not a ‘67 520. Yes they both came with a 1300, but you’ve got a 521 if it was originally fitted with a 1300cc (J13). At least that’s what it looks like to me given that grill set up. 
-Pidge

Edited April 29 by pidge

[datzenmike]

Those front side reflectors were replaced by larger rectangular ones with bulbs for '70. 'Course the fenders may have been changed. What does the engine tag up behind the engine on the cowl say? I doubt an engine conversion would involve changing it also. That's a lot of work swapping an L16 for a J13. The engine mount position on the frame is much different.

 

Anyway, a 510 automatic will fit the L16. Up to April '71 several style column shift Borg Warner 35s were used in the 510. After, the new Japan made Jatco floor shift 3N71Bs were used. They are 26" long, while all later L series 3N71Bs were 31.5" long so you would be looking at also shortening the front drive shaft. The automatic would have to be from an L16 or and L18 as the flex plates are 5 bolt and the L20B is 6. There is also a converter pilot or adapter that fits over the end of the crankshaft between it and the flex plate. You would need an automatic radiator or an after market RV external transmission cooler. It's totally do-able if you can find the parts.

 

Long 3N71B that fit an L16...

 

'73 610 with L18

'74 710 with L18

'73/'74 620 with L16/L18

 

 

Try a want ad in out Classifies... https://ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-datsun-parts/  ... There is likely someone who has converted an automatic 510 to standard out there who has one behind the garage.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

There are hand control systems for people with limited use of their legs.

[banzai510(hainz)]

To swap to automatic?

I say forget it .too much money or really parts and you need a datsun expert

single resivoir master cylinder. Your partial handicapped. I would not do it.   I rarely drive my 521 now once I went to a 90s toyota

Edited April 30 by banzai510(hainz)