njoz1200ute Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 i have a buddy who coated the frame for a project of his in por 15 like 10 years ago. he swears by the stuff for rust prevention. says he can wipe the dust off his frame and it looks just as shiny as the day after he applied it The aussies i met in the 1200 club I was in also swear by it. But they don't have snow and ice like we do. Might not be a problem for you texans. I don't plan on driving mine November to March 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 That is a butt ton of hard work to get 40+ years of "stuff" off your car. Looking great. POR-15, watch the warnings on temperatures, and avoid sweating in/or on to the POR-15, which is one of the reasons for pouring it in to another container and only using small amount at a time until you figure out how much you can do before it starts to set-up. Wear gloves, wear gloves, dish washing gloves would be good for you! And it something to take your time doing. That is a butt ton of hard work to get 40+ years of "stuff" off your car. Looking great. POR-15, watch the warnings on temperatures, and avoid sweating in/or on to the POR-15, which is one of the reasons for pouring it in to another container and only using small amount at a time until you figure out how much you can do before it starts to set-up. Wear gloves, wear gloves, dish washing gloves would be good for you! And it something to take your time doing. The instructions say it is moisture activated, so high humidity makes it cure really fast. Quote Link to comment
Datsubishi Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 I've used the POR15 system for the interior of my 510's gas tank and... it doesn't leak anyway. I'd definitely use it again. It's nice that the rust convertor part is reusable as well. Great progress by the way 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2015 Got the components for the left side tie rod. At this point I am gambling that I can make the stock 1200 struts work. If not, I'm sure that someone will need the parts someday. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2015 Had the new ball joints for about 10 years. Just couldn't find much else for the suspension at the time. Left side suspension components and sway bar cleaned up with a fresh coat of epoxy paint and new bushings. Didn't cost a lot of cash and kept me entertained for about a week. 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2015 Front part of the left inner front fender 24 hours after using the POR 15 water soluble cleaner/de-greaser. The panel is very clean, but has some surface rust in the marks made by the wire wheel. The directions were to keep the surface wet with the cleaner for 15 min. then rinse thoroughly with water. The surface rust is not a bad thing. Next step is to use the POR 15 metal prep, which is an acid etch. When you are working out of a storage shed with no utilities, and you must rinse thoroughly with water, you fill one of these up at the house and bring it with you. 3 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 24 hours after using the POR 15 Metal Prep. The treated area is to the left of the strut tower. It is an acid etching product that leaves a zinc phosphate coating, leaving a surface for POR 15 to grab on to. POR 15 does not adhere to clean, shiny, smooth metal very well. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Applied POR 15 on the front part of the inner fender. I think I might have applied it too thick. The instructions say to apply 2 thin coats and works best at 70 degrees or above. It seems to set up really fast at 100 degrees, but I like the results. It is black and shiny and I think it will be OK. Time will tell. At least it is better than what I had last week. Prepped the rest of the left inner fender. Turned the nice, bright shiny metal into a rusty zinc phosphate coated mess. But POR 15 will not adhere to shiny metal. 1 Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Looks like an abstract elephant sculpture 2 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Applied POR 15 on the front part of the inner fender. I think I might have applied it too thick. The instructions say to apply 2 thin coats and works best at 70 degrees... I've never been able to get it to go on thin... :rofl: 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 POR 15 really doesn't want to go on thin when it's 105 degrees. Left inner fender done except around the steering box bolts and the pinholes where the floor pan is attached to the firewall. It was a lot of work, but if it kills the rust it will be worth it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Me neither, it usually goes on thick as hell.. I like the stuff, but I generally only use it where you don't see it. I used it on my inner rockers when I replaced sections, and I used it in the upper sill areas between the roof and that upper railing. It's my understanding that the sun breaks it down (i might have read that somewhere) and once you put that stuff on, you're more-or-less married to it. Hopefully, you are done with, or have no plans to do any welding in the engine bay. Not that I would know or anything, but if you weld on the inside of the fenders, that finish will get damaged. Again, I've never done that, ever. :) It's looking good :thumbup: I've never been able to get it to go on thin... :rofl: 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 It's my understanding that the sun breaks it down (i might have read that somewhere) Yeah, it hates UV. They sell a "top coat" for it that is to be used when it's exposed to sunshine regularly. :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 No plans on welding in the engine bay and not applying it anywhere that gets UV. If for some reason the finish gets damaged, I'll figure out how to patch it. Doesn't need to be pretty, just needs to kill the rust. I want it to be driving 50 years from now. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Prepping the bottom of the chassis and the frame rails for POR 15. Removed the center link and idler arm. I need to record this because when it goes back together, I will have forgotten how everything fits. The right side has the grease fitting on the bottom and attaches to the Idler arm. The Left side has the grease fitting on the side and attaches to the steering box. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 OK, This is the first time during the project that I actually said "O SHIT!". I got the horn cover off the steering wheel, put a socket wrench on the nut holding the steering wheel on. I was getting a better grip on the wheel and let go of the socket wrench. THE WRENCH MOVED BY ITSELF! The nut was less than finger tight! Holy Shit Batman. The steering column may have been out during the collision repair in the early 80's but my Mom drove this thing for years after that. No amount of yanking on the wheel would make it come loose, but DAMN! Probably pretty good advice in any language. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Neither of my 521 steering wheel nuts were all that tight either and I have no reason to believe either had ever been removed. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Neither of my 521 steering wheel nuts were all that tight either and I have no reason to believe either had ever been removed. I "liked" that quote, but not really. Makes me wonder if there was a Quality Control breakdown at the factory. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 I bet it has more to do with the cast aluminum mashing down over time...shrug 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2015 After Dad bought the car new in 1972, he made some modifications to the top of the steering column cover. The top button with the accompanying LED light is for the driving lights. The lower button is for the electric trunk release. Maybe the first one on a Datsun! Dad liked to tinker with the car. I need this picture to be able to put the car back together correctly. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2015 The Cheap, Chinese made tools just keep piling up. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 The steering wheel popped off with nearly no effort using the puller. With the nut almost loose and minimum effort required to remove the wheel, I will probably figure out a way to safety wire the nut when it goes back together. Now I have to figure out how to remove the turn signal mechanism. The steering column must come out to clean and and rustproof the frame rail. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 19, 2015 Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 Now I have to figure out how to remove the turn signal mechanism. There's a couple of screws on the side of it near the base. Loosen those and then it slides up off the column shaft. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 19, 2015 Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 You can see the screws here... 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted August 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 I thought that was what I had to do, but mine isn't nice and clean as that one. I think those screws are going to put up a fight. Quote Link to comment
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