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1200 autocross project Texas


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Had to get a graduated cylinder to re-charge the stock struts. The FSM says the AMPCO struts on my Sedan need exactly 280cc of fluid (Bel Ray shock oil) to rejuvenate the struts. Got my fingers crossed that this will actually work.

 

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To fully take care of the rust, clean up and re-undercoat the inner fenders, the outer fenders must come off. It was with much fear and trepidation that I removed the probably unattainable lower chrome trim piece. If I screw this up, I don't know if they can be replaced. Fortunately the removal was straightforward with bolts at each end and spring clips in the middle. Turned out to be a piece of cake.

 

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Pulled the Grille off to facilitate the removal of all the trim and main components, to remove the outer fender.

 

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Cool to see a thread with almost daily positive updates. Your definitely diving in deep and quick. Congrats! Cool story attached, and all my respect to your father (mine was in the Canadian military).

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Thanks for your Father's service to your country. Canada had our back during WWII. Not diving in as quick as I would like, but like many on Ratsun, I am doing a restoration on a limited budget.I'm glad you like the updates. Most of the posts are documentation for myself. My memory is not what it used to be so I take lots of pictures in case I can't remember how things go back together.

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The top front fender bolt, the one just above the headlight bucket, was covered up by by silicone, bondo and undercoat. Had the wire wheel on for about 15 seconds when I decided to stop and take a picture. This is the front corner that got hit 40 years ago.

 

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Oops! The bottom fender bolt next to the door broke off in the rocker panel. I'll deal with that later.

 

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Removing the left front fender, I encountered a few difficulties. The rear most bolt securing the top of the outer finder broke off. I was able to get this one out.

 

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The rear lower bolt holding the bottom of the front fender to the rocker panel broke off. This one will take some work.

 

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Soak it with ATF mixed with acetone.  Then drill it with a small bit, like 3/32", then again with a larger bit just under the size of the bolt threads.  With luck, the larger bit will grab and screw the bolt into the rail, rather than trying to unscrew it, since chances are the threads sticking into the inside of the rail are all boogered up with rust and it's easier to drive the bolt in, than out.

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Soak it with ATF mixed with acetone.  Then drill it with a small bit, like 3/32", then again with a larger bit just under the size of the bolt threads.  With luck, the larger bit will grab and screw the bolt into the rail, rather than trying to unscrew it, since chances are the threads sticking into the inside of the rail are all boogered up with rust and it's easier to drive the bolt in, than out.

Great suggestion, thanks.

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Left front fender connection to front valance. A big hole filled by a big glob of Silicone. Looks like a quick and dirty collision repair. A lot of silicon, seam sealer and bondo ground away.

 

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A really rough looking repair. The top of the inner fender had a bunch of Bondo filling in the distorted repair.

 

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The left lower control arm cleaned up and painted.

 

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I told my buddy Mat about my problem with broken bolts and he handed me this set of extractors. He recently upgraded to a set from Snap-On. I think it must be a rule that if you have an aircraft inspection authorization, at least half of your net worth must be in tools.

 

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Finally was able to drive halfway across DFW and pick up the last bits of the racing suspension from Datsunfreak. The adjustable rear spring shackles.

 

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The front spring shackles and traction bars. Parts are made complying with the the Datsun Competition SCCA C Sedan manual published in 1975.

 

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