thisismatt Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Looking at the adjustable lower control arms, along with the adjustable camber plates to possibly make a 205 fit in the stock front fender well. Have a torch and a big hammer if any adjustments need to be made to the inner fender. If I were buying fully custom arms, I'd want a more flexible joint. And call me a cynic, but that weld looks like a failure point if there's a decent amount of caster dialed in. Would be nice with a johnny or creeper joint if you don't want a heim. 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Meh, just take a grinder to that caliper.....it'll be fine :thumbup: 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 My Harbor Freight magnetic under hood work light has really been handy doing all the interior work. I am starting to think I don't really need a generator. 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Here I go again. Got to record how the Coupe race suspension comes off the nice rebuilt differential I got from DF. If I don't, I will surely have spare parts when it goes back together. There is a rubber isolation pad on either side of the spring and an extra metal bracket between the spring and the modified lower mount. These are not on either of my cars or in the Datsun competition suspension blueprints. 1200.com says the springs mount metal to metal. Nuts partially loosened on the u bolts securing the modified lower mount. This shows the lowered Coupe shock mount and the traction bar mount. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Good side view of the traction bar mount on the modified lower mount. The rubber isolation pad and steel bracket between the spring (contacting the rubber), and the modified lower mount. Rubber pad and bracket separated. The rubber pad between the spring and the differential. Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Nice work KT! I have no idea how you got the floors so clean with no electricity. Do 280zx struts bolt straight into a 1200? I imagine the brakes have crazy stopping power on a car so light.. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 There is a rubber isolation pad on either side of the spring and an extra metal bracket between the spring and the modified lower mount. These are not on either of my cars or in the Datsun competition suspension blueprints. 1200.com says the springs mount metal to metal. I do believe the Comp manual would have you throw the rubber bits in the bin. :rofl: But if datsun1200.com says they didn't come in there stock, I believe they are mistaken. Do 280zx struts bolt straight into a 1200? They do not. ^_^ Step #1, you need to remove your control arms, T/C rods, steering knuckles, ball joints, and outer tie rods. Step #2, replace all those bits with the same bits from a '79-82 210. That gets your foot in the door. Beyond that, it's the same as adapting them to a 510 (or almost anything else). I imagine the brakes have crazy stopping power on a car so light.. They do. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Nice work KT! I have no idea how you got the floors so clean with no electricity. Do 280zx struts bolt straight into a 1200? I imagine the brakes have crazy stopping power on a car so light.. No electricity: My cars are in a 10x30 storage unit 2 min. from my apt. I've done all the work with a Harbor Freight battery powered drill and wire wheels, and a 4 batteries and chargers. 4 good batteries will get be about an hour of hard use. My goal is 1 hour of work every day, so it works out with minimal cash investment. 280ZX Struts: What DF said. I'm lucky that I have local expert knowledge! Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 The rubber isolation mount and steel bracket on the bottom of the spring. The modified lower spring mount would attach to this. The rubber isolation pad on the top of the spring. This would mount to the differential. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 The Coupe and Sedan shock mounts are completely different. For the Coupe differential to work on my Sedan, some surgery is required. The Coupe shock is attached at the lower suspension mount, under the spring. The Sedan shock mounts directly to the differential. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 Big time thunderstorms complicated my Memorial day. Sanger TX got hammered during the time I scheduled to work on the Sedan. Had to close the roll up doors on each end of the storage unit. The $6.00 tap lights from Wal-Mart and the under hood work light lit up everything very well. No problems. The view of the floor and firewall from the trunk. The under hood work light is awesome! The driver's firewall is going to take some work. 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 Scored a free file cabinet today. Was about to go out and buy one leaving less cash for Datsun parts. 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 Something weird going on with either my computer or the website. Since I could not edit the above post, here's part 2. The A-14 parts that I bagged and tagged now have a safe place to live while waiting for the rebuild. The top drawer gets interior and suspension bits. 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 Working on the firewall. Far right side is a plastic wiring guard/holder attached to the nasty fiberboard and insulation attached to the firewall. The 40+ year old insulation is going to be replaced by something more modern. Removed the glove box and door for better access to the firewall. Most of the firewall looks really good. No need to mess with this area. Around the throttle pedal, not so much. The pedal comes off tomorrow. 3 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 The rust under the throttle pedal is stripped clean. The seam between the driver's side firewall and floor. The most rust on the whole car. Still trying to figure out the best repair. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 The frozen up NISMO limited slip differential is now the operating table, ready for surgery. Mat came by, and with a lot of effort we were able to almost make it do a full rotation with a large pry bar. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 The right drum isn't going to budge. The left drum finally surrendered after a generous application of penetrating oil and Map Gas heat. The diff will now spin through with some effort. The right drum gave up and now the diff will spin easily, but not without some noise. I guess that's OK for a diff that's been on the ground in the weather for 20 years. All the hardware off the right side except the wheel cylinder. It looks a lot better than I expected. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 Now the problem is removing the nut holding on the yoke. Really don't want to haul it to Mat's shop to use the impact. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 Get a long metal bar, drill two holes in it, bolt it to the flange, prop it against the table? 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 Or an "easier" way, pop the axles out (since I know you're going to anyway), then remove the center section/third member, and just take that to the shop? 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 Get a long metal bar, drill two holes in it, bolt it to the flange, prop it against the table? Just the response I was looking for. I have the metal bar already. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 Dumb question: Why take it off? Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 Dumb question: Why take it off? I want to put the limited slip unit in the pretty rebuilt diff. The front housing on this one is really nasty. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 The factory service manual says to use these special tools to remove the axle shafts from the differential. I don't have the special tools so I used a spring compressor, a long pry bar and big hammer. Didn't work. Think if I had tied down the differential, it might have worked. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 You could make a slide hammer easily with some allthread, nuts/washers, maybe some pipe. Just need something with weight to it to slide along it...maybe the head of a 5lb sledge Quote Link to comment
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