KiloTango1200 Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Bolt on, then adjust at transmission end. Adjust the free play to 2 mm.Then after bleeding, go up to the pedal and confirm you can push it down 1" with your pinky. No play is very very bad. GGzilla sent me this almost a year ago and I finally got the clutch bled. I can push the clutch in way more than 1" with my pinky, but i might have a very strong pinky finger. The slave cylinder does not begin to engage for the first 2" of pedal travel but is very light until about 2" from the floor, then it starts to get stiff. Watching the slave cylinder from under the car, the cylinder has a linear travel through the clutch pedal depression. It's been a long time and I don't remember the clutch being that light. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted February 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 All the North Texas ice and snow have disappeared this afternoon. Clear blue sky and a comfortable temperature. I can get something done today. Pulled all the main bearing caps and bagged them. Quote Link to comment
Rhapakatui Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 Don't take this the wrong way, but that's a beautiful picture of your crank shaft. Funny how we can just document things so that we remember them and sometimes it turns into a piece of artwork. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 #3 & #2 main bearing caps. The bearings look very good. #2 & #3 main bearing caps. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 The cold North Texas weather relented enough today to get some finish up work on the A-14 dis assembly. Crank and cam out of engine. This engine is really clean. What I found today made the 700 mile, 12 hr. round trip from DFW to Fayetteville AR to pick up the engine well worth the trip. Crank and cam. Both in great shape. When I pulled the crank, I found this metal plate held on by 2 screws. It was on the left side of the block, next to the #4 cylinder. Why is it there and what does it do? Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 It blocks oil from splashing out of your crank case breather tube. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 It blocks oil from splashing out of your crank case breather tube. This. If you pull it off, there will be what looks like a brillo pad inside. Follow it up and you'll see it goes to the pipe that your PCV hose is hooked to. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Thanks for the info Draker & DF! I didn't want to take it off until I knew what it was for. I have now hit the point in the project that I now have to spend money instead of just supplying my labor. But that's progress. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Wow, I am just the opposite. Pretty sure I have spent all the money and now just need to supply my labor :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 Finally got the A-14 completely dis-assembled. The cam followers look very good. Not that it really matters because everything but the block and head is going to be replaced. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 The splash plate and Brillo pad looking filter thingy for the PCV. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 Looks like those screws fought you a bit... ^_^ 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 That was the hardest part of the whole engine dis-assembly. Penetrating oil and map gas torch wouldn't make them budge. Had to break out the impact driver to keep from stripping them. :sweat: They will be replaced anyway. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Can't do much more to the A-14 without spending money so I pulled the rear bumper. All the chrome trim is going to be powder coated or painted to simulate black chrome. I had a test done on one of the badges and it turned out very good. I need to see how it looks on a larger piece with flat surfaces. Bumper off. This is the test piece. I am fairly certain that the rubber bumper pads are not available because during all of my research for this project, I have never seen one for sale. Never really cared for them anyway. I'll find some similar head bolts and go with the clean bumper look. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 This one is for me because I am old and senile. The rear wiring harness ground on the right side rear bumper mount. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Finally got the rear flexible brake line loose. Took map gas heat to get the job done. The new rear brake drums arrived today. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 The new rear brake drums arrived today. Those are so cute!!! :rofl: 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Those are so cute!!! :rofl: That's exactly what my boss said. He wanted to see what was in my Rock Auto shipment. He has an '84 Porsche 928 and has the same problem finding parts that I do. His are just more expensive. And a hell of a lot more complicated. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted April 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 Floor jack upgrade. 4 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 That's the same jack we have at our shop. Works great for Datsuns. :thumbup: Big cars, not so much... ^_^ 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhapakatui Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 I've been wondering if they were any good. I've got a coupon for one for $100. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted April 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 I've been wondering if they were any good. I've got a coupon for one for $100. And they are really lightweight also. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 I've been wondering if they were any good. They are. :thumbup: And they are really lightweight also. Exactly why we keep buying them. Not only are they a lower deck height than a regular steel jack (great for a lowered car), but they are crazy light. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted April 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 After deciding on the color combination for the build, bright yellow paint and black chrome trim, I have done a lot of research to make the end product as close as possible to the target. Real black chrome is almost impossible to obtain, so a close representation is what I am trying to get. After interviewing many powder coating shops in the DFW area, Pat, owner of Atlas Protective Coatings in Denton TX came up with the best plan. They have a clear black that if applied to a shiny chrome, will closely simulate black chrome. I need to have a test piece re-chromed for the powder coating company to try to achieve simulated black chrome. This is what I started with. A bumper guard that will not be reused. I always thought they were ugly, I like the clean bumper look. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 3, 2015 Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 Why not just polish it for the test? Or I can probably loan you some scrap chrome pieces if need be. Quote Link to comment
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