KiloTango1200 Posted January 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Re read my previous post. It takes me some time to finish editing. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Thanks again to Datsunfreak for hooking me up with the rear clip! Glad to help! Anything to get another 1200 on the road in DFW... :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Nice team work :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Just to see what would happen, I dumped the remaining MEK in the Sedan's rusty fuel tank to see what it would do. I let it percolate for a couple of days and this is what came out. It's not the same color as the rust in the tank, so I think this must be melted varnish and other nasty goo. I decided just as an experiment, I am going to try the multi-step cleaning process to see if it works on a tank this bad. The rear clip tank is going to the vat hopefully sometime this week. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 I finally got the Sedan up in the air high enough to slide my ass under the car and remove the hard fuel line. The hard brake line to flexible brake line doesn't want to give up without a fight. It appears that the hard lines were installed on the production line before the drive-train was installed. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 It appears that the hard lines were installed on the production line before the drive-train was installed. Definitely. ^_^ 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 The hard brake/fuel lines are rather hard to remove unless the drive train is out. That rear hard line to rubber line for the brakes put up quite a fight on mine too. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted January 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Brother, can you spare a dime? Somehow I suspected that this might happen. I originally wanted to make a race car out of the 1200 2 Dr. Sedan with an L-16. I found a 510 in a wrecking yard and bought it for the engine. I was convinced by the Ratsun community to restore the sedan and find another car to race. Datsunfreak wanted the 510 and I sold it to him, and acquired Dimlight65's white 1200 coupe rolling chassis for a race car with a CA18DET for Auto X. I then stumbled across the 24 Hours of LeMons racing series. Google it and laugh your ass off. Endurance racing for $500 cars. They hold an annual race at Eagle Canyon Raceway in Decatur TX about 30 minutes away. The 510 would be perfect for this. I contacted Datsunfreak about the Dime. It was just too far gone for a restoration and sold it to Justin. He has too many projects going on and agreed to sell it back to me. I took delivery and brought it back home to Sanger today. I now am the proud owner of 3 Datsuns that DON'T RUN and won't anytime soon. As Jeff Foxworthy's formula concludes, I just might be a Redneck! At least I can admit, I am as sick as most Ratsun members. [/url] 4 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Hey, I own 3 also......only 2 of mine don't run. Does that make me only 2/3 redneck? Nope, I am all the way there.....got me a pick up what don't run. :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted January 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 Got the rear connections of the hard lines removed and they are almost loose from the car. The hard lines are loose on the firewall. The hard lines are not coming out without a lot of work. The hard lines are trapped by the transmission cross member and some wiring to the transmission. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 The hard lines are trapped by the transmission cross member and some wiring to the transmission. Seems like if you have a jack, that's an easy problem to solve? 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 Yeah, after visiting your shop, what you said makes sense. I'll drop the trans cross-member and unplug the trans wiring and drop the gas and brake lines out whole. I just know that those bolts are going to put up a fight, but they are going to have to come out soon anyway. I already cut the line going to the smog tank in the rear of the car because it will not be needed with the A-14 with dual carbs. I just wanted to experiment with the aerospace unions. It needs to get it back on the road asap so we can have a multi-Datsun convoy through Ft. Worth for lunch. The cut line is a lot more manageable. It is filled with MEK to soak for a couple of days. No flare bite type hydraulic line union. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted February 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 I drained the MEK out of the hard line going to the charcoal canister and this is what I found. Even though no fuel was in that line, there was still a varnish build up. 1 Quote Link to comment
Datfabio Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 This thread is awesome! Its really good to know there are some non z Datsuns here in the metroplex... I would LOVE to see the 510 at the 24hrs of lemmons! 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 This thread is awesome! Its really good to know there are some non z Datsuns here in the metroplex... I would LOVE to see the 510 at the 24hrs of lemmons! Welcome to the party! Datsunfreak and Dimlight65 also have 1200s in the metroplex. There is also a 1200 UTE with a SR20DET that puts out 400+ HP here. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Ready to remove the trans cross-member. Cross-member out. There are 2 electrical connections on a 1200 4 speed transmission. This is the forward one and both connections are broke off. I cannot find what the wires go to or what it's function is. My factory service manual does not address this wiring. Any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 This is the rear wiring on the transmission, the grease wiped off with a rag soaked in MEK. It stayed intact and I marked the bottom wire with tie wraps to know which wires go back together during re-assembly. The hard fuel line and brake line are finally out. It was a really hard fight. The lines were jammed between the transmission chassis mount and the rearmost transmission electrical connection. I finally figured out if you drop the transmission, which is now supported by the floor jack, by about 4" the lines will drop out in one piece. The fuel line has been filled with MEK to soak for a couple of days to melt off any varnish or goo left in the line. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 As far as the switches go, the catalog only shows 1 (reverse lamp switch) and the part # starts "32005". Neutral switches start with part # "32006" but I have no neutral safety switch on my pedal to prevent starting without the clutch pedal depressed. But I am pretty sure my 4 speed has 2 switches also....the trans that is on my back porch has 2 switches but it is too dark and too cold to go out and look at the actual car. I know none of this probably helps but I am up and have had too much coffee so........ 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted February 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 It was a beautiful, calm 70 degree North Texas Sunday so I decided to take advantage, open the roll up doors on each end of the shop and play with the A-14. Because the storage unit has no electricity, opening both doors floods it with light, and I don't have to burn up batteries to see. I easily removed the transmission support. The bolts easily came out of the oil pan. This is great, fast progress. However, the oil pan has other ideas. It won't budge. I soaked everything with penetrating oil but it really likes where it has been for the past 40 years. Never tried to pull an oil pan off an engine this old. I got a propane torch but haven't tried that yet. Just don't want to screw anything up. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 After a moderate application of heat from the MAP gas torch, the oil pan let go without any fuss. What I found made me smile. At first inspection, this old engine's bottom end looks really good. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Looks like a runner :) 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 I sealed up the hard fuel line by clamping a short piece of fuel hose to each end and shoving a bolt into the open end of the hose. On the first application I sealed up one end and filled up the line with MEK then sealed up the other end. I let it percolate for 3 days. This is what came out of the line. I didn't think that this amount of fluid was sufficient to come out of a nearly 8' line. Some either leaked out or there were air pockets that didn't get contact. I left the plug out of the both ends of the line while I filled it for the 2nd time so there wouldn't be any air pockets. I had one end slightly higher than the other and didn't plug the lower end until MEK came out of the low side hose. I plugged the lower hose and finished filling it before sealing it up. I let it sit for another 3 days and this is what came out. Looks better but needs one more round. 3rd times a charm. Used the same procedures for filling the line and let it sit for 3 more days looks a lot better. I took the hard line to Mat's shop to blow it out under pressure. This is what came out. I think the line is clean enough to use now. Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Nice! I gotta remember the MEK trick. I call that stuff methyl-ethyl-death.. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Nice! I gotta remember the MEK trick. I call that stuff methyl-ethyl-death.. It is if you gargle with it. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Decided to finish pulling the A-14 apart. The pistons and connecting rods look really good. Got the crank bolt out and the crank pulley off. It required a lot of penetrating oil and an application of MAP GAS heat. ] Got the timing chain cover off. Took more penetrating oil, a putty knife, and more MAP GAS heat to make it let go. Flipped the engine upside down on the stand and removed the crankshaft washer. Removed the camshaft sprocket and timing chain. At this point I am taking pictures to remember how it all goes back together. 1 Quote Link to comment
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