datsunfreak Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 The front valance was hiding a whole lot of nastiness and I am glad I took the advice. Now you know why I always do that. ^_^ Even super nice cars are usually grody back there... 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 It was great advice which I took :thumbup: If you use stainless steel fasteners, I would strongly recommend putting some anti-seize compound on the threads. After a review of Duncan's 71 "Oz" Goon thread, Datsunfreak advised Duncan to remove the front valance by drilling through the spot welds and re-attaching the front valance using stainless steel hardware. 2 Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted September 19, 2015 Report Share Posted September 19, 2015 Yes but Lieutenant Dan and the rest of us are going to be so proud in the end. 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted September 19, 2015 Report Share Posted September 19, 2015 All us 1200 guys are proud and glad...what an awesome reference point for anyone building a 1200. KT: when you pulled out the steering column was the motor installed? And did you have any issues getting it past the crossmember and steering linkage(can't remember if it was there or not)? Also, if you decide to tear it down and refurbish the column, be careful separating the column tube from the steering box, there are shims between the two and they are as thin as snatch hair. I was unaware of this and we had to fab new shims out of a Mountain Dew can. Oh, and one more thing.....if your steering wheel moved up and down and side to side there is a bearing at the top of the tube that wears out after 40 some years and was available at least 2 years ago through Nissan. If you need the part # let me know. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted September 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 Thanks for the advice. The steering column came out easily through the engine compartment with the Pitman Arm still attached. Engine is in the car, but the stock air cleaner and alternator were off the car. Used the procedures described in the factory service manual. Removed the turn signal assembly and the ignition switch assembly and it was way easier than I thought it would be. I have new seals for the steering box, but I don't think I am brave enough to do it Solo because if I screw up the steering box, I have nothing more than a pile of scrap metal. I have never seen another 1200 steering box/column assembly for sale. I am comfortable replacing bearings, so please send me the part # for the top steering column bearing. I want as many new parts on the car as I can get. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Forrest Gump got his newest rust fighting delivery. Eastwood internal frame rail coating. When I finally get through with this project, rust will have no place to hide. The advertisement says the specialized nozzle provides complete coverage. The product works as advertised. The nozzle provides complete coverage. If you decide to use this product on your project, make sure you use it before you start any completion phase. It goes everywhere and blows out through any gaps. It sticks on contact and runs when too much is applied. On this project I apply too much of everything. Use a drip pan/drop cloth or have an open container of MEK and plenty of shop rags if you don't want to have your shop floor covered with green splatter. 2 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 I have new seals for the steering box, but I don't think I am brave enough to do it Solo because if I screw up the steering box, I have nothing more than a pile of scrap metal. I have never seen another 1200 steering box/column assembly for sale. I think I still have my original box if you end up needing it... 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 I used that stuff in my rocker panels and upper frame rails on the wagon. Works good and sticks like mad. I would caution you about welding near it unless that stuff is completely dry. Not that I have any personal experience or anything, but I suspect that welding up a trim hole in a rocker panel with that stuff not fully dry could cause a little explosion :) Forrest Gump got his newest rust fighting delivery. Eastwood internal frame rail coating. When I finally get through with this project, rust will have no place to hide. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted September 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Top of the left frame rail coated with POR 15. Left caster rod mount. The POR 15 coating is so shiny that the picture shows reflections. Everything is shiny gloss black. Left frame rail and inner fire wall behind the cross-member. More reflections off a shiny gloss black finish. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted September 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 Pretty much have the rust taken care of on the left front side of the car. Time to start thinking about going back together so I can eventually drive it before paint and the new drive line. The rear lower fender bolt broke off during the attempted removal so that was my project for today. Got some extractors from Mat so I will see how well they work. Drilled a hole all the way through the bolt, sprayed it down with penetrating oil and let it sit for a while. Took the map gas torch and got it hot. Screwed in the extractor and put some torque on it and the extractor snapped off inside the bolt. Now I have to go to plan B. I drilled the bolt off center so that might be the reason the extractor broke off. 1st attempt at using an extractor. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 Screwed in the extractor and put some torque on it and the extractor snapped off inside the bolt... 1st attempt at using an extractor I hate those. This is all they do. Snap off in the bolt. It's a wonder they still make them... :rofl: Then as a nice added surprise, they are a harder material than any drill bit known to man... <_< 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted September 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2015 The daily driver Honda turns over 200K on the Bi-weekly, 500 mile round trip to Childress TX. I check on my 86 year old Mom, take her out to dinner, do her shopping and take care of her prescription medication. Iv'e put 75K on the car in the past 3 years. It was Mom's car, but I had to take it away from her because of her dementia. I got rid of my daily driver and am wearing this one out because it is already paid for. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted September 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2015 So this is plan B for the broken extractor. I cut an inspection port in the interior rocker panel so I can put a nut on the lower fender bolt. I will make a cover for the hole out of sheet aluminum and attach the cover with pk screws, sort of like on aircraft. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted September 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 I drilled out the center brace of the radiator support because there must be rust hiding behind it. Iv'e gone this far, so I'm going all the way. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted September 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 Finally something going back together! Left side LCA, ball joint and tension rod with all new bolts and bushings. All rust is busted! 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted October 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 I treated the inside of the rocker panels with the Eastwood frame rail interior coating. Covered the Inspection Port I cut to access the bottom fender bolt with masking tape and slowly removed the spray nozzle from the frame rail to get maximum coverage. Removed the tape and was pleased with what I found. 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted October 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 Got the inside of the floor pan treated with POR 15 and all of the rust out repaired, with the exception of where the left rear driver's seat mount is attached. That still needs to be cut out and replaced. Using the POR 15 Patch and Seam Sealer along with POR 15 Powermesh fiberglass mat, I was able to repair all the minor rust out, especially the seam between the driver's firewall and floor pan. I figured out that if you run a bead of the seam sealer around the area you need to patch, it will really hold down the fiberglass mat. Then using rubber gloves, you can mash the sealer into the fiberglass mat and it will conform to the shape of the panel and stick down well. The seam sealer that was mashed out through the rust out holes on the bottom of the floor pan. Ran my gloved finger across and sealed up the bottom. This stuff works great if you are patient. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted October 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 Got some holes in the connection between the radiator support and the inner fender wells. POR 15 Epoxy Putty to the rescue. A big gap at the left front attachment of the radiator support to inner fender. Another big gap at the radiator support to right lower inner fender attachment. Other small holes in the radiator support to front frame rail attachment. Lots of holes at the radiator support to front frame rail attachment. Looks like the repair shop blew holes in the radiator support while making the repair. The left inner fender to radiator support attachment patch. All the holes and gaps between the radiator support and the rest of the frame are sealed up with POR 15 Epoxy Putty. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted October 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 3/4 of the radiator support is prepped for the POR 15 treatment. Also got the first can of the undercoat. May all the rust RIP. 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted October 17, 2015 Report Share Posted October 17, 2015 Ok, only took me about a month but...... upper steering column bushing part # 48910-H1021 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted October 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 Got 3/4 of the radiator support coated with POR 15. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted October 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 Ok, only took me about a month but...... upper steering column bushing part # 48910-H1021 Ok, only took me about a month but...... upper steering column bushing part # 48910-H1021 Thanks, ordered one today. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 Cool that it was still available. If I remember correctly, we had to put some pretty good heat on it in order to unscrew the old one from the tube. Also, if you separate the upper tube from the box, be careful as they put very thin shims between the two and I had to make some out of a Mountain Dew can. 1 Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 Thanks, ordered one today. Ditto. Thanks for sharing 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 Anybody know the part# for the steering column firewall seal? Been looking all day and came up with nothing. Quote Link to comment
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