KiloTango1200 Posted June 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2014 Got the sound deadening off the passengers floor. Some rust, but no rust through. This side looks pretty good, no welding here. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 15, 2014 Report Share Posted June 15, 2014 Finally some good news! :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted June 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2014 Datsunfreak turned me on to a 510 Goon rear axle in the DFW area. I didn't really need it right now, but when something you will need is local and at the right price, you gotta jump on it. Got the whole rear suspension and my buddy Mat got the springs to build an ATV trailer from scratch. It's great when all the parts are used for something. Thanks DF. :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted June 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2014 Now for something completely different. I haven't been able to do too much to the car because I have been preparing for today.The Denton TX Airshow. A B-25, P-51, DC-3, Russian Hind Helicopter, T-28, Multiple T-6 & T-34, Pitts, Extra, & Giles Airshow performances. Mat and Phil brought 2 Cessna 195s. Cessna 170s, J-3 Cubs, PA-18 Super Cub on floats, Globe Swift static display. Schweitzer Helicopter rides. Glad it is finally over. 18 hour days puts the hurt on 50+ old people. Just imagine 10,000 people visiting your place of employment in one day. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 15, 2014 Report Share Posted June 15, 2014 Datsunfreak turned me on to a 510 Goon rear axle in the DFW area... Thanks DF. :thumbup: You are quite welcome. :hug: Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted June 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 Wheel Bling! New valve stem caps. 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Started taking the rear clip apart. Drilling out the spot welds is easy enough, but the seam between the trunk and back glass is unfamiliar to me. On top there is no indication of a spot weld but it feels like there might be a couple on the back side. There is a glob of metal that looks like it might be lead sealing the seam. Not sure how to get the panels apart. Any advice is appreciated. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 That looks like brazing? Like it's welded together with brass rod? 2 Quote Link to comment
JoeCool Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Wheel Bling! New valve stem caps. Where did you find those? I want some! 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 That looks like brazing? Like it's welded together with brass rod? Then how do I take it apart without ruining the donor panel? Quote Link to comment
Rhapakatui Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Try heating it. Brass and steel don't really mix, the brass should just be on there like a solder that you can melt off. It looks in the picture like there are spot welds on either side of the seam that are holding still. If you can get those, the brass should be easy enough to break loose. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 A Dremel tool with a grinding attachment is working, just not very fast. My "heat " consists of a propane torch so It did nothing to that big Brass blob. Will try grinding as much as I can, then turn up the heat. My "new shop" where I have everything is a 30' x 10' storage unit that is a mere 30 second drive from my apartment, so the location is awesome. The storage unit has a roll up door on each end and is facing North and South so I have redneck air-conditioning. Big drawback: no electricity. My usable power tools are battery driven. A 7.2v Dremel and a 18v cheap $20.00 Harbor Freight Drill Master drill. All my other tools have cords. Each has only one battery so the drill will run out of juice fairly quickly, but I have only exhausted the Dremel once. I go to the shop every day on my way home from work for about an hour, so these tools are working for now. Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 if you are using propane with the propane torch try getting a bottle of map gas it is in a yellow can and it burns much hotter then propane 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Thanks, I'll try that. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted July 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Where did you find those? I want some! Ebay Australia Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted July 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Taking out all of the ugly stuff in the interior and found some dirt dobber nests. Thankfully no signs of rodents or other pesky critters. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted July 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Drilled out all the visible spot welds and ground the brazing down to the bare metal. Very little brazing left in the seam. There is a lot of supporting structure under the donor panel I still need to get out of the way. The exterior seam line shows no sign of a spot weld, but on the back side of the panel I can feel what I think are a couple of spot welds, but I can't see them or access them until the supporting structure is removed. The body shop guy was right. This is a lot of work. Now to get a bottle of MAP gas. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Finally, time to get serious and quit working around the edges. Took ggzilla's advise and bought a FSM. It's a '71 manual, hopefully there is not that much difference between '71, '72, and '73 models. I don't have a '71 1200.....yet. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Not much difference. Some slight wiring changes for 1973 e.g. the lighted knobs. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 MAPP is an acronym for methylacetylene-propadiene propane. MAPP gas is actually propane that has been modified during its refining process by adding acetylene, a flammable gas found in many welding gas-fuels. MAPP gas burns hotter than unmodified propane. In other words, this is really HOT SHIT! About 2000 degrees Fahrenheit hotter than Propane. The instructions say it will melt your regular propane torch. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Out of room in the shop. Time to blow the rear clip apart to make room to disassemble the A-14 for the new build. These tools should at least get me started. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 So you are going to put an A14 in, using a different cross member or modifying the mounts? Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Mad Dat's 1200 UTE crossmember. Still a long ways off. Working on rust right now. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted July 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 Got the test piece from the Powder Coating company today. Really pleased with the way it turned out. Trying to simulate black chrome by using a base coat of anodized silver followed by a top coat of clear black. Doesn't really look all that much like black chrome but has a really cool 2 tone effect with the edges of the letters remaining silver while the flat surfaces are a shiny black. All chrome trim will be done this way and should look really good against a killer yellow paint job. This is how it looks in direct sunlight. The 2 tone effect really stands out. Before and after in the same shot. Big difference. Now to get a new set of badges off Ebay. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 11, 2014 Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 Now to get a new set of badges off Ebay. And to cross your fingers and hope they aren't plastic. B) Quote Link to comment
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