KiloTango1200 Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Great info, but the clutch line really, really likes being attached to the cylinder. I couldn't get a line wrench on it because of the shape of the cylinder and the corners are starting to round off. Since the brake line works as a replacement, I can just toss the old parts and go back with all new stuff. Nothing has been apart on this car for at least 10 years and most everything has not been apart since new. So far everything is fighting me but I expected that. Fortunately I learned patience when my buddy and I restored a 1930 Model A Coupe when I was in high school. Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Speaking of which, I should have mentioned that you should ALWAYS loosen the rubber line with it still on the car. ^_^ FYI, the front brake line can be used for a clutch line. Only difference is that the rubber brake line is about an inch longer than the rubber clutch line. ;) Use a 280zx front brake line for the clutch (female-male) ~10$ and available at most autoparts stores on the shelf. The 280zx rear brake hose can be used for the 1200 front brake hose (female-female) 12" instead of 11" and also commonly available at most stores. 280zx front brake hose is also the same part number (for Napa at least) as the 1200 rear brake hose. 280zx http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Brake-Hose-Front/_/R-UBK36866_0342275351 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Brake-Hose-Left-Rear/_/R-UBK36940_0283051329 1200 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Brake-Hose-Front/_/R-UBK36892_0342275293 2 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Use a 280zx front brake line for the clutch (female-male) Good call. Sorry, my 510/280ZX knowledge bit me in the butt there. :rofl: Forgot the 1200 uses a female-female brake line up front. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 $4 at rockauto 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 $10.99 at the O Reilly's in Sanger TX. It was even in stock. Thanks for the help guys!! All new hydraulic clutch parts ready to install. Just need to re-read the instructions for adjustment before installation. Any advise on the adjustment? 1 Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 $4 at rockauto Good call. Sorry, my 510/280ZX knowledge bit me in the butt there. :rofl: Forgot the 1200 uses a female-female brake line up front. Lol, I mostly remembered cause I bought a metric crapton of those hoses cheap off Rockauto as they fit damn near everything. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 Bolt on, then adjust at transmission end. Adjust the free play to 2 mm. Then after bleeding, go up to the pedal and confirm you can push it down 1" with your pinky. No play is very very bad. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 Thanks for the info. Still waiting on the clutch fork boot from New Datsun Parts to arrive so I can do all the clutch components at the same time. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 Dis-assembled the spare front struts that I acquired about 15 years ago. Going to soda blast and re paint them. I also did an operational check. Hardly any resistance on compression but a lot more on rebound. Datsunfreak says the strut fluid has lost it's viscosity. Time for new fluid and o-rings. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 Datsunfreak says the strut fluid has lost it's viscosity. Merely an educated guess. No guarantees. :rofl: Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 But it makes total sense. Well' find out in 2 weeks. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Our VP of Operations used to be a hot shot motorcycle racer and wrote for a couple of motorcycle magazines, so I asked him what his favorite motorcycle fork oil was. He said Bel-Ray makes a very good anti foam high performance fork oil at a reasonable price. He questioned the 20W viscosity saying that most fork oils are much thinner today. He also said that that a car is much heavier than a bike so it made sense. He said I can always experiment and use a different viscosity till I find what works best on my vehicle. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 The clutch fork boot finally came in. Much to my chagrin, I found a 2nd one I ordered years ago. Now I have 2 which is not a bad thing. This is what is left of the old boot. It is like a freaking rock. Have to cut it up to remove it and I am not sure I got it all. There might be a few small chunks rattling around in the bell housing. The new boot is fighting me going back in. The main problem is I am over 50 yrs old and even with glasses my eyes can't focus on something less than a foot from my head. The solution to the problem is either a floor lift or a magnifying headband. Guess which one is in the budget. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Ha Ha, I feel ya on the not being able to see bit. Starting to think about trifocals.........dang. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 Magnifying headband-5 bucks from harbor freight. Being able to see clearly up close in an awkward position-priceless. 4 different magnifications and even has it's own lights. Already paid for itself. New clutch boot installed. Took about 30 min after I could see the problem. The rubber is thicker than the opening next to the fork arm. Petroleum Jelly and a forked interior trim tool did the trick. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Actual progress being made. New clutch operating cylinder installed. I love having my stuff 2 minutes from the apartments. Finally, after all these years, I can play with my Datto every day on my way home from work. 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted April 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Everything still wants to put up a fight and I don't want to break anything. The clutch master cylinder finally gave up and let me take it off to reveal a nasty combination of rusty shims, bubbling paint and a generally disgusting appearance on the firewall. Just wanted to get her to move under her own power, but there is no way I will put a new master cylinder back on without addressing the problem. I now need to soak down the brake master cylinder with Nuts Off for a couple of days to get it to let go. Then I can clean up and prime the whole area so it won't rust while waiting for paint. Out with the old and in with the new. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Firewall behind the master cylinders. All the bubbling paint behind the clutch master cylinder just easily wire brushed away. Now to pull the brake line and speedometer cable, strip the paint and address the rust in that area of the firewall and prime it. Does anyone know where a speedo grommet can be had? Ive seen about every other firewall grommet on ebay, but not the speedo grommet. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Does anyone know where a speedo grommet can be had? Ive seen about every other firewall grommet on ebay, but not the speedo grommet. I think it normally comes on the cable itself. Not sure you can take it off (or put it on) with the cable "nut" on both ends, so... New cable? Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Why not? Nearly everything else is going to be new also. :crying: Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 The hard lines going to the brake master cylinder would not give up while still attached to the car. I got them to let go from the firewall proportioning valve. Then had to persuade them loose from the old master cylinder with a liberal application of Mouse Milk and heat from a torch. Fittings attached for 42 years do not want to be separated from their life long friends. 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 You'll be surprised what you can find at ace hardware. 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Speedo cable part # 25050-H1602 from 6/70 and on (former part # 25050-H1601) the newest # is a B5050-????? (that part is in the storage unit, well the bag is...) the grommet that goes in the firewall has the # 62127-EF0100 stamped in it but that is 1 digit too long. I had to cut mine down one side to install it, but I cannot remember if it came with the cable for sure. Lotta help I was right there eh? Say, do you need the door vent window weatherstrips? I think I got sedan ones by mistake. The other KT 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Thanks for the info Kelmo. Yes, I need the vent window weatherstrip. Every piece of rubber is getting replaced. Let me know what you want for it. I screwed up and now I have to do a really nice engine compartment. That's why I need a new speedo grommet. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted April 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Evidence of a carb fire. Probably happened after Dad passed away and it was Mom's Daily driver. Quote Link to comment
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