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E3 SPARK PLUGS ANY GOOD?!


bryant2482

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Do they display testimonials by people that have tried them? Placebo effect. If you think it will improve performance/gas mileage/last longer you become biased and your observations pick out the good and throw away the bad. There is a tendency to also believe that the more you spend on something the better it has to be. If anyone got better mileage it was probably from subconsciously driving slower and more carefully. Anyone can get 10% or more better fuel mileage.

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E3 SPARK PLUGS

Can't believe they still exist. Their marketing has changed a lot over the years from blatant lies into implied lies. A spark plug can not split a single electric spike into multiple sparks, can't happen. If an engine runs better with them it's because there was a problem with the other plugs.

 

OOPS, maybe I was thinking of Splitfires

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What about changing heat ranges if your running a lot of compression?

Read the plugs after a hard run ... if they're getting fouled or otherwise incorrectly cleaned/colored play with the heat ranges to find the best for your motor...

As I said, I ran a hotter plug in my hopped up L20b due to fouling plugs, it ran a bit better after.

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I had the opposite problem with autolites- damn things kept falling out.  Champions, those got stuck.  I've also had nothing but bad things to say about Bosch Platinums.  Several cars had 'em in them when I got them and they always fouled.

 

NGK.   BPR6EY if you prefer a "groovy" plug.  BPR6ES if you want to go standard.  NipponDenso plugs are OK, but they're a Honda plug. 

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  • 5 months later...

From my experience(air cooled vw's, old Triumph m/c, kart racing engines) I think the ngks and nippondenso plugs are overpriced & offer zero performance improvement. The original "BOSCH SUPER" or standard Autolite is the only way to go in my book(3rd choice Champion). Clean your threads in the head with q-tips and carb/choke...then smear a bit of anti-sieze on the threads b-4 installing. Sandblasting used plugs is risky....what if some of the blasting media makes it inside of the motor? If u can find N.O.S. "Splitfire" plugs buy them(made by Autolite)....they almost never foul(fuel/oil/heat) and in some applications they actually made more power on the dyno(high compression, wild cam, methanol, header). If u flood a NGK when running alky good luck getting it to fire again. I find running one heat range hotter in #1 and #4 helps low end fuel burn/throttle response(Chrysler reccomends this in the Mopar performance book on L6 225 slant sixes). I also prefer solid copper washers on the plug verses the steel crush washers supplied w/ plugs...be sure to index electrode "gap" towards intake valve/piston. U may need to use a flat surface w/ abrasive paper 2 trim the thickness of washers down 2 achieve this. Gold irridium, platinum, and the like do not hold up to higher temps(lean)......standard Bosch, Autolites R TOUGHER.

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I had the opposite problem with autolites- damn things kept falling out.  Champions, those got stuck.  I've also had nothing but bad things to say about Bosch Platinums.  Several cars had 'em in them when I got them and they always fouled.

 

NGK.   BPR6EY if you prefer a "groovy" plug.  BPR6ES if you want to go standard.  NipponDenso plugs are OK, but they're a Honda plug. 

 

I worked at Bow Wow in Seattle when the Bosch platinum's came out. We sold a ton of those POS's and most of them came back.

 

European = Bosch

 

Japanese = NGK

 

Ford = Autolite

 

Chevy = Delco

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Maybe I wasn't clear  above.... I was just giving a well rounded suggestion based on my experiences. Yes I have a wide background(other than just Datsuns) but I've tested/tried it all on my Z24s,z22s,l20b. I just cannot justify spending more $$ on NGKs. If u watch the ads/rebates autolites are almost always cheaper. If I thought NGKs were better or had an added benefit I'd buy them. 2 each his own I guess. One other thing on the spark plug subject.....if u have a bad head/gasket(water oil in combust chamb), bad ring/ vlv guid/etc  a set of Champion L87YC plugs will run the longest b-4 getting fouled and will "self clear" more quickly than anything else Ive found....HOT plug.

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You could do the same with a hotter NGK plug. The Champion/Autolite or whatever are not an exact match. They may be close but will be slightly hotter or colder than the factory recommended NGK. I find that Champion (no I didn't run them in a Datsun) tighten wrist tight and yet you need a breaker bar to loosen them later.

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We used to use Autolites in our 1710 cubic inch V12 Allisons.  These run Avgas, and are supercharged and make around 2000 HP @ 4000 RPM.  Big engines.

 

We have to run the coldest plugs around, or they melt.  But the Autolites have a horrid tendency to foul and rust.  Even after sitting less than a week between runs, we've found the plugs rusty, black, and extremely hard to clean off.  The rust happens because the plugs are overheating, and they are the coldest plug available for that thread and reach.

 

By sheer coincidence, one engine had 12 Autolites and 12 "Accel" brand plugs in it.  The Accels upon further inspection had "ND" cast onto the body, which told us they were just rebranded NipponDenso plugs.  So, I went to Rockauto and bought a set of NDs, which while slightly more expensive (0.20 a plug) than the Autolites were far cheaper (by over a dollar) than the price we'd been paying at NAPA.

 

A full year later and close to 12 heats of running, the plugs are clean, no rust, and not fouled.  This is for plugs with the same equivalent heat range.    We are NEVER going back to the Autolites.

 

I've had similar problems with autolites in Datsuns.  Besides backing out (in 2 different engines), they come out fouled.  NGKs run clean and I've yet to have one fail.  Like Mike, I've experienced the self-tightening Champions.  Snapped one off in a head, it was quite the chore getting it back out.  I have no problem with Champions in my Lawnmower, though.  It all comes down to application.

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