heretic Posted August 14, 2013 Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 exciting, I bet you're stoked to get wrenching :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted August 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 It seems odd to me to have someone prepare a LZ block and not relocate the dipstick, or add coolant holes to the deck. So basically - all the block prep was the same, it didn't matter if it was a Z22 or a LZ motor? That just sounds odd to me. It just came down to money K_trip, and yes all the block prep was mainly for the pistons since I am using stock size still. I wanted it done as cheap as possible, so in the end has me doing more work. exciting, I bet you're stoked to get wrenching :thumbup: Oh yeah! Lots of work to do, well kind of Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 I managed to grab two pictures but it was late and pictures where not on my mind. The crankshaft is in. Just need to get the rings in the pistons and install them next but dont have a ring compressor. Anyone recommend a good cheap one? Besides then that I will be drilling out the passages on my block too. Will document it better! Got all the gaskets yesterday so things should start moving. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Anyone recommend a good cheap one? No such thing. Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 I managed to grab two pictures but it was late and pictures where not on my mind. The crankshaft is in. Just need to get the rings in the pistons and install them next but dont have a ring compressor. Anyone recommend a good cheap one? Besides then that I will be drilling out the passages on my block too. Will document it better! Got all the gaskets yesterday so things should start moving. You can rent tools like this for free (with deposit) from a lot of the chain auto stores such as Autozone and O'Reilly. The O'Reilly stuff is usually better quality but has a 48 rental window, the Autozone is keep as long as you want. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/RentalTools.oap http://www.autozone.com/autozone/inourstores/lat/latLanding.jsp Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 All work specially including drilling on the block should be done before installing crank rods and pistons. Think surgery. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted September 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 I managed to grab two pictures but it was late and pictures where not on my mind. The crankshaft is in. Just need to get the rings in the pistons and install them next but dont have a ring compressor. Anyone recommend a good cheap one? Besides then that I will be drilling out the passages on my block too. Will document it better! Got all the gaskets yesterday so things should start moving. I drilled my block after it was together, and have had no issues with it at all, I just covered everything up and taped it so nothing could sneak by. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 Yes, sometimes time and availability of parts, even a change of direction can upset the order of things. Of course you can grind and drill on a part built motor. Avoid if possible, take precautions if you do. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted September 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 That is just what i did. Used tape to cover everthing up and a shop vac to suck any shavings up. Worked really well. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted September 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 I haven't thought about this until now but will I need to use the L20b engine mounts? No modding needed? I have been looking at clutches and the Z had a 225mm fly wheel, same as the L20b for a truck. I see many people recommend exedy. I also searched and found a lot of information but still a little confused on what clutch release to use. I don't have one for either the L20 or Z22. I will be using a 280zx 5 speed. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 I haven't thought about this until now but will I need to use the L20b engine mounts? No modding needed? I have been looking at clutches and the Z had a 225mm fly wheel, same as the L20b for a truck. I see many people recommend exedy. I also searched and found a lot of information but still a little confused on what clutch release to use. I don't have one for either the L20 or Z22. I will be using a 280zx 5 speed. OK, this is important, if you use the 225mm flywheel/clutch cover, you need to use the 225mm flywheel/clutch cover TO bearing collar, do not try to use a 200mm or 240mm collar, or a roadster one for that matter, what transmission does not effect the clutch cover/collar, the clutch cover/collar are a matched set, they follow each other around. I have found that whatever mounts held your old engine in are what you use to put your new engine in, as long as both are setup as an L series, the Z block with an L head make it an L series, you also need to use the oilpan/oil pickup tube from your original engine. I don't own a 620, so I don't know all the quirks about them, when I made my LZ23, I used all the hardware from the L20b engine I pulled out of my 521, so it had been changed once back in the mid 90s. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted September 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Thanks wayno! Just got confused on the information. Is there a 200mm flywheel that is a 6 hole? Wouldn't mind using the roadster clutch as I read it is stiffer what I would like. That is what I thought about he motor mounts just wanted to make sure before it gets to where I am installing the engine and have to wait because the mounts wont work. Also got the oil pickup and pan from the L20b. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 All car L20Bs and Z20S and Es came with 200mm flywheels. Well from the factory they did. On your LZ22 use everything L20B except the block. Only the Z22 block is actually being swapped,so everything forward, below and above is L series. I would run the 225mm flywheel with 720 clutch. Has larger surface ares to dissipate heat. Quote Link to comment
mtngoat Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Pay attention to the clutch cover throwout bearing sleeve matching as these guys say...I learned my lesson the hard way! Tranny is irrelevant...the T/O sleeve needs to match the pressure plate used. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted September 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 All car L20Bs and Z20S and Es came with 200mm flywheels. Well from the factory they did. On your LZ22 use everything L20B except the block. Only the Z22 block is actually being swapped,so everything forward, below and above is L series. I would run the 225mm flywheel with 720 clutch. Has larger surface ares to dissipate heat. I'll start looking into the 720 clutches. In the kits do they have TO collars? I know they carry the bearings in them. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 29, 2013 Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 Make sure you check and find out about the collars. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted September 29, 2013 Report Share Posted September 29, 2013 I'll start looking into the 720 clutches. In the kits do they have TO collars? I know they carry the bearings in them. No kits come with a collar...just the release/throw out bearing, pilot bushing....etc Exedy kit Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted September 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Where can I get one a throwout collar? I looked the part number up on carpartsmanual and when searched all it can find is stuff that says sleeve bearing. Part number used: 30501-N1600 EDIT: Man i was an air head.... "sleeve" bearing. Geeze nevermind about this... :blush: Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 After taking off my thermostat housing off my L16 to reuse there was no thermostat inside. I never had a problem with overheating and the engine seemed to get up to temp fast. Is this safe to do again? OR should I just get a thermostat? Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 definitly run a thermostat Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2013 Picking up a pair of SU SSS carbs with a K14 manifold, complete linkage, heat shield, and air cleaners! Stoked. Should have them in my possession by tomorrow evening. Anyways my question is should I break in the engine with the Weber 32/36 since I know it runs well before I slap these carbs on that need to be cleaned and jetted and what not. Also bought a Paraut water pump for $45 dollars. Not bad. Got the one for the L16 (no clutch) will run all the goods from the L16. I was thinking about using stainless steel fuel lines but wanted to get your guys opinion on them and if there is a set that you like or are running? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 5, 2013 Report Share Posted October 5, 2013 Run what you know works. New motor, unknown SUs that need tuner tweeks, trouble shooting.... Better to get er going first. Quote Link to comment
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