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Basic LZ22 Build w/ Flat Top SSS SU


jvb5577

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WOW!!!! Watching your re-build and this looks like something I'd like to do myself.  Let me know what costs come to when all done and I'll see if thats feasible.  This is going to be your DD?  Would like to know all in one post all the parts used & what came off of so I could look out.  Whats the diff between the U67 closed chamber and the peanut?  Is this for higher compression?  Is your looking for a street motor, and looking for speed, are there any changes that are going to have to be done in the gears to the tranny or rear end?  I'm sure the tranny is fine but what about the ratio of the pumpkin?

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U67s were only open chamber heads, while peanut (closed chamber) are a little over 4cc smaller and will raise the compression slightly. Transmission is certainly strong enough, they were used in the Z car with 6 cylinder. A re-worked 4 cylinder usually includes a cam and the power band is moved much higher making the off idle and mid range a bit doggy. Originally this was said to be for a '79 truck which was the only year they put 4.11 gears in the back. I would definitely get a set of 4.375s from an earlier year.   

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With all the block options, which ones WON'T work with a L-series trans, Z, DogLeg etc...?

 

Also I'm thinking of using a L20B block for this....mainly for sleeper status and cost...my motor is a runner but goes thru oil. So I will be needing to do a motor soon.

Future plans would be R1's or bike throttle bodies(FI) with Megasquirt....Both use same manifold.

I have a u67 head that I can have worked over, bigger valves, porting.  I have done a KA in my old wagon and I really don't want to mess with wiring/crossmember/sway bar..etc

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The L series, Z series and the KA series motors all have the same bolt pattern however the L series leans to the right about 12 degrees from vertical and the Z/KA are about 8 degrees to the left of vertical. (give or take) Transmissions have the bolt pattern 'clocked' to the right for the L and to the left for the Z/KA motors. You cannot reliably force an L transmission onto a Z or KA motor (or the other way round) the rubber mounts won't stretch through 18-20 degrees of difference. If you keep the motor mounts and mod the tranny mount the shifter will either be in the passenger's or the driver's side or seat. What you can do is swap the front case to the correct bolt alignment.

 

The FS5W71B comes in L (280 z/zx and 620 truck)and Z series configurations. The Z series 71B was never used on a KA but could be if you wanted.

 

The F4W63 4 speed (similar to the 510/521) also comes in Z series configuration (and thus will fit a KA too, not that you ever would want to)

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Thanks Mike...I knew I read this once before.

Reading some other engine threads, I noticed the issue of Headgaskets....if this was done on a L20 what I'm I looking at using?
 

If the L20B is a bust, I will look at other options, I just need to do this in steps. I'm putting in a dogleg in next week, which does not have the removable bellhousing.

I don't want to change transmissions till I find a deal on one...or need it. Which will probably be the case a few months after having a fresh BIG BORE motor. :geek:

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Most transmissions don't have a removable bell. The T-5 from the turbo zx and the Roadster 4 and 5 speeds do but very few others. The Dogleg is a bit light for a built motor.

 

Here's some really good Datsun/Nissan transmission info by Mike Rogers in a DQ article. Hell he even used some of my pictures!!!...

 

510transswapsinfoandID001.png
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510transswapsinfoandID005.png

510transswapsinfoandID006.png

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510transswapsinfoandID009.png

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

BITCH'n article Mike. 

 

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Ha ha yeah I contacted Julian and mentioned there were a few errors in the tranny swap article in the DQ and he challenged me to do better. Took about a year to fine tune the details and another 4-6 months until published. By 'fine tune' I mean sending in revisions on revisions on revisions. :lol: :lol: Eventually had to just cross fingers and go for it.

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Well I'm pissed.  Today I was taking a better look at my engine and head.  The U67 I bought from a member here seems to have a plain as day problem that I overlooked.  One spark plug hole is stripped and at the bottom is a chunk of "stuff" almost like bad corrosion.  I can't even get a plug to start to thread in it.  Gaaaaaahhhhhh!  :angry:

 

What I want to know is can this be fixed or am I out?

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It happens ... not a show stopper.

 

I have never dealt with Troy, but of course I've heard of his work, he should be able to tap it larger and install a helicoil.

Some folks go as far as have that done to all plugs while the head is being worked on.  Might be less problems later on.

 

Keep up the build!

 

I just took a breather and looked it up and seems like that is going to be the route.  Just makes me mad a member here said the head is in "running condition" to find this out.  

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  • 1 month later...

Well long story short.  I am just going with the basic LZ22.  After talking to Dave at Rebello and going over all the specs it just seems more realistic to go the LZ22 vs the LZ23 for a daily driver.

 

Now with that said down the road I will be going the LZ23 route once I get another vehicle and make this a more weekend driver.  Even thinking about doing the whole KA turbo head on the Z block.  But thats the future.  Back to the present.

 

Everything is being worked on at Rebello racing right now.  The U67 head is getting a complete rebuild.  New stiffer springs, new valves, keeping stock cam for now, spark plug was fixed by just chasing the threads!  Bottom end is just getting cleaned up and honed with a complete rebuild on it.  More progress will be added soon.  Going to be a torque monster!

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