Basic LZ22 Build w/ Flat Top SSS SU

[jvb5577]

Well starting to collect parts so once it is back from Rebello I can start assembling it.  I remember reading somewhere that KA oil pumps work, I think it was KA.  I know I will need to upgrade this to a higher capacity pump.  Also wanted to know a good source for the timing kit.  I've found some but wanted to know what you guys recommend.

 

For the alternator should I stick with the Z22 one or upgrade to something better?  I pan on running a "light" sound system in my car along with HIDs.

[datzenmike]

'89-'90 KA24E from an S13 240sx (not any KA24DE S13 motors they have a crank driven internal oil pump)

'86 and up D-21 Hardbody 4 cylinder motors (Z24i. KA24E and KA24DE) All have the high output external oil pump just like the L series.

 

New from the dealer are about $100 so don't pay more. I pull them from running motors in wrecking yards. All my Datsuns have them even my L18

 

The Z22 alternators were all at least 50/60 amps. I have an S13 KA 90 amp on my '74 710 and an '02 100 amp Altima alternator on my goon. Nothing wrong with moar powah.

[jvb5577]

Got it early KA24.  Was going to go the wrecking yard route too.  Anything specific to look for when pulling them?

 

Didn't know the power of the Z22, that thing is pretty weak.  Will probably go the KA since I will be pulling the oil pump from it.  

 

Another question.  How do you guys get the burnt oil off the inside of the valve and timing cover?  I was trying degreaser but maybe I just need something stronger..  

[datzenmike]

I pulled one once.... then noticed the rod through the block. Pulled the pump apart and the rotors were all ground up from the metal particles.

 

The Z22 is weak because of the head used... an L head would make just over 100 hp. Hmmmm way better breathing and another 1,000 usable RPMs so 105 - 110 hp. Byron from The Realm had an LZ22 with side drafts and some mystery cam.... 134 RWHP!!!! Now that's not bad by anyone's standards.

 

This is his sheet from when he installed his EFI. The carbs were se

o well dialed in it gained only 4-5 hp.

[K_trip]

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[jvb5577]

WOW, if I can get 120 HP out of this I will be happy  :w00t:

 

Have been curios as to what others have dyno'd their LZ's at.  

 

I got a better solvent and some steel wool and it came right off.  Thanks K_trip.

[K_trip]

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[datzenmike]

An LZ23 should make easily 110 just from the displacement bump. L head compression is around 9.8 so another 5+ hp. Weber and you're there.

[Dawa]

a bunch of sport bike riders recommend kerosene for cleaning the chain,

especially if its gunked up with some shitty lube.

 

so i feel it would do well for the oil on your block too

 

and its cheap. or gas. or alcohol. i use all 3 depending whats available

[jvb5577]

I actually used some stuff I have at work.  It just has fluid cleaner on it but it took it right off.  Used the steel wool to get in the hard to reach spots.

 

I am looking at using a pair of SU carbs with this engine.  Talked to Bruce over at ZTherapy and he said the 38mm SUs will be plenty of carb for the LZ22.  I trust his word as he said he put over 300K miles on his.  

[Sealik]

Myself.....I would grab some 46s and fit some fat needles....see what Bruce suggests.

Then..... when you increase to 2.3 or 2.4L.....shave/profile the needles.

 

...<.......No need to swap carbs out for the larger displacement

 

                        But then again....that's me.... :D

[jvb5577]

Myself.....I would grab some 46s and fit some fat needles....see what Bruce suggests.

Then..... when you increase to 2.3 or 2.4L.....shave/profile the needles.

 

...<.......No need to swap carbs out for the larger displacement

 

                        But then again....that's me.... :D

 

Well after talking to you that is what I was going to do but then Bruce was saying all I need is the 38mm but I could go to the 46mm.  Said the big difference is 38's are fast off the line, weak at top end while 46s will have a good top end and are slow off the line.  Makes complete sense.

I also want decent gas mileage, which is why I am trying to stay away from the thirsty webers  :lol:

[datzenmike]

I have a pair of 'real' SUs from a Volvo. They are 40mm or 1.5" and were on a 2 liter motor.

[Sealik]

Well after talking to you that is what I was going to do but then Bruce was saying all I need is the 38mm but I could go to the 46mm.  Said the big difference is 38's are fast off the line, weak at top end while 46s will have a good top end and are slow off the line.  Makes complete sense.

I also want decent gas mileage, which is why I am trying to stay away from the thirsty webers  :lol:

 Correct......but 38s to 46s?... all relative to engine size, needle profile and rear diff ratio...etc

 

My point was....you 'could' use the 46's on the LZ22 until you upgraded

I probably get around 25 MPG /city....it has so much torque with 4.38s there is no need to really put my foot into it.. :sneaky:

Highway MPG might be another story....

[jvb5577]

I have a pair of 'real' SUs from a Volvo. They are 40mm or 1.5" and were on a 2 liter motor.

Will these work with a 220 or K14 intake?

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

Dunnow. I think they are 4 bolt like the Z car or Roadster SUs. A 4 bolt will still bolt to a 2 bolt manifold just ask Sealik

[jvb5577]

This morning I got out the good old "How to modify your Datsun OHC engine" book and was reading threw it.  Came to the carburetor section.  They have a formula to find the throttle-bore size needed for your engine.  Now keep in mind this is for race engines but it says a 2.2L with say 6k usable rpm will need a bore size of 47mm.  So my assumption would be the head intake would need a good port but you can't port larger then 1.5in without hitting a water passage (book and rebello's suggestion too).  Now the next formula was for the main-venturi size and it comes out to be 37mm, then main jets to 1.48mm.

 

Now this thing would be a gas guzzler!  But all this is for top performance at high RPM.  Was hoping this would help me in deciding what carburetor(s) I would like to run, but it hasn't at all  :lol:

 

On another note my engine is just about done at Rebello.  Pictures will follow once it is home!

[datzenmike]

Racing set up is a poor set up for the street. Not just the gas milage it's the easy starts and restarts when it's hot. The ease with which you can pull away from every stop light without revving the shit out of it and slipping the clutch. The easy smooth idle when stopped and the smooth acceleration all the way from idle to top end. None of that applies to a race only engine.

[jvb5577]

Racing set up is a poor set up for the street. Not just the gas milage it's the easy starts and restarts when it's hot. The ease with which you can pull away from every stop light without revving the shit out of it and slipping the clutch. The easy smooth idle when stopped and the smooth acceleration all the way from idle to top end. None of that applies to a race only engine.

 

Agreed.  I was just more amazed with the size carb this engine can handle.  Sure something like this would produce that 130+ HP.

 

I also have the stock L20b cam in my head still.  I had Dave upgrade the springs just in case I didn't like it so I can put a hotter cam in it easily.  

[jvb5577]

I got all my stuff back from Dave at Rebello.  No pictures of the head at the moment but here is some of the block and internals.  I am thinking about keeping the block paint on there and putting a clear over it.  Kind of like how it looks with some rust.  Assembly is going to follow here soon, just need to get the gaskets and stuff.  On that note I can't seem to find a Z22 Nismo head gasket.  Anyone know where I can get one.  I guess I should have grabbed one from Dave.

 

 

 

Also here is the valve cover I am working on and the finished calipers.

[Sealik]

Are you going to re-locate the dipstick?

You could use the Z22 Felpro HG....much cheaper.

Are you going to match the coolant ports in the L head to that Z block????

 

As seen here....

 

 

Hmmm...I notice there is no oblong coolant port at the back of the block to match the L head....

 

 

 

 

Mine....7 holes drilled into block

 

 

 

[Sealik]

I managed to keep the stock location for the dipstick....just calibrated the oil level after I dumped in 4.5 liters.

Looks like yours is sitting somewhat forward to mine....assuming the Z22E block

 

 

 

Still accessible after fitting heat shield and SUs

 

There is about 20 degrees difference between the L and Z blocks.......soooo

 

Sat the dipstick deeper into the pan......to match OE oil levels...

[jvb5577]

Yes the dipstick is going to be moved to the back location since it is a rear slump oil pan.  I could but just heard a lot better things with the Nismo and that is what Dave recommends.  If I can't find one then I will just use the felpro out of the gasket kit.  

 

Yes no back coolant hole.  Have to drill one out... as for the others, Dave suggested just to drill the 3rd piston out as that is the one that gets the hottest but said I could do all.  So not sure how I am going to go about that yet.  Also how did you get the shavings out of the block after?  I know a shop vac wont get everything.

 

Neat trick with the dipstick, I will do that and yes it was a E block.

[Sealik]

I highly doubt I dropped many shavings......

If so.....flush the cooling system a couple of times to remove.

 

That 5+ HP shop vac utilizing a smaller crevice tool...?........sucked rather well I must say... :)

 

 

[jvb5577]

I highly doubt I dropped many shavings......

If so.....flush the cooling system a couple of times to remove.

 

That 5+ HP shop vac utilizing a smaller crevice tool...?........sucked rather well I must say... :)

 

 

That will work then, did you tape the end to make sure it didn't leak?

 

You did this while the engine was in the bay?? BOSS!  B)