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Basic LZ22 Build w/ Flat Top SSS SU


jvb5577

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The problem I ran into with boring a block that starts at 85mm, is if you have to pay someone to do it, they will charge you more to make the extra passes. So it becomes more $$ for a weaker block.

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Here is the Z22 bored to 89mm...with 7 extra holes drilled into block for cooling

P5090003.jpg

 

Modified Z24 Felpro HG with 9 extra holes

P5070007.jpg

 

 

Everytime you guys talk about drilling the head gasket, it reminds me of when I was in tech school and needed to drill a hole in one. Being an idiot I just walked over to the drill press and started drilling. Within 2 minutes I was calling the parts house for another one, with the first one wrapped around the spindle. Thanks for making me relive that painfull memory once again haha.

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Nobody ever said horsepower was cheap!

 

Aint that a fact! I took mine home and did it on my Bridgeport. Took hours and hours, at one point I fell asleep. I left .010 for someone else to hone it. 

 

-1978623336073F53E3.png

 

-199428644029DF7E5F.png

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Everytime you guys talk about drilling the head gasket, it reminds me of when I was in tech school and needed to drill a hole in one. Being an idiot I just walked over to the drill press and started drilling. Within 2 minutes I was calling the parts house for another one, with the first one wrapped around the spindle. Thanks for making me relive that painfull memory once again haha.

 

Ha ha...yeah I fucked up my first one....lol

The trick is to tightly sandwich the HG between some wood....

Made a jig...

 

hg1-1.jpg

 

P5070004.jpg

 

Used a laminate trimmer for the larger passage....lol

sh6.jpg

 

sh7.jpg

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:o  That is pretty sketchy.  Although if it has been done a lot just got to make sure you have a good machinist.

 

Does anyone have a picture of a bored Z20?

Nothing "sketchy" about it.And good or bad doesn't matter.He wasn't familiar with building Datsun strokers.ANd why should he be?These motors were out before he was alive.
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Aint that a fact! I took mine home and did it on my Bridgeport. Took hours and hours, at one point I fell asleep. I left .010 for someone else to hone it. 

 

-1978623336073F53E3.png

 

-199428644029DF7E5F.png

You ought to be awarded for bravery! I would not try to throw a block in my mill, but then my mill is a worn out pile...

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You ought to be awarded for bravery! I would not try to throw a block in my mill, but then my mill is a worn out pile...

 

It was a major PITA. My boring head was too big to fit in the hole at first, so I had to do top half/ bottom half. And the bore is deeper than the total Z axis travel, so I had to raise the table the last inch or so. Many rough passes, and then one full length final.  

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I just want to make sure that this is TDC.

 

IMG_0533.jpg

 

 

TDC is set by aligning the notch on the crank pulley to the ZERO mark on the timing scale.

 

This thing...

Lparts002Large.jpg

 

...to this thing...

oilpumptimingcover002Large.jpg

 

Then look through the top hole in the cam sprocket and you want to see this...

motorLcamtiming.jpg

 

Notch just below and slightly to the right of the horizontal line on the cam thrust plate.

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You also need to bring the crank up to and stop at TDC in a clockwise direction only. No backing up. If you over shoot, back up a couple of inches and try again as many times as needed to get right. If you back up, the chain slack will transfer to the 'tension' side and give an inaccurate reading.  

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Alright so I was a little off.  This USA made shit sucks!  No notchs at all and you have to look threw the sprocket to see if its lined up.  Horrible design! :mad:

 

Yes the 3 hole's suck.....more so if manufactured in USA...lol

Beck Arnley had some good sprockets made in Japan.....find the old stock if you can.

The new stock (on right) is 4 hole....but... as you can see...

Holes are offset ....notches for timing the head are now MIA

 

beckarnley.jpg

 

rrr.jpg

 

This one came with no marks...calculated and cut my own

tra.jpg

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