carterb Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 I haven't been making enough progress for Jeff so he decided to push the issue and come help me start the wiring: We disassembled the engine bay wiring harness to start cleaning it up but found it was pretty hacked so I found a better one in one of my bins and we are using that instead. He's pulling out all the junk that won't be needed. The car had some kind of H4 wiring "upgrade" by the PO but one of the headlights caught fire so we will be going back to the factory wiring thank you very much. While Jeff strarted taping up the simplified harness, I started stripping the VG33 harness to get it ready for integration. We got a good start on it anyway. Still lots to do... Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 The plug comes off pretty easily if done the easy way. I usually end up pulling the spring clip out.....not the easy way. I'm pretty sure you can just squeeze the spring clip in on the sides to make that top, recessed section bow up and release the catch underneath it. Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted May 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 My attention has been elsewhere for a while but I did pick up a black rear seat today, and I assembled a set of front seats as well. The passengers side is a little ratty. I just pulled it out of one of my other cars. It'll do for now. Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted June 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2013 What is the sensor in this picture with the blue connector? I realized my planned replacement manifold does not have it. Something I can safely ignore? Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted June 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2013 More questions: The crank pulley has room for three belts: It appears that the alternator I have lines up with the middle section and uses a grooved belt: What would the V-belt be used for? AC? How about the forward belt? Power Steering? I don't know if the alternator I have is the one that came with the motor but it seems to fit here okay. This looks like a really tight fit with the radiator outlet though. I see a lot of VG30's with the alternator mounted on the opposite side of the motor. Can that still be done on the VG33? It would be nice to dig it out of this hole (it's always a pain on an L-motor 510) - especially since I will still be running the battery in the stock location. Lots of room on the opposite side. I'll have to check a couple of my VG30 blocks and see if they have mounts that I can test fit. Quote Link to comment
Mr.510 Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 What is the sensor in this picture with the blue connector? I realized my planned replacement manifold does not have it. Something I can safely ignore? That's a coolant temperature sensor. You should look in the wiring diagram for your donor injection and see if that one is for the gauge or the ECU. There are many water necks with various temp sensor ports to choose from if you'd rather run the sensor there. I can also swap you for an angle milled lower that has the sensor port if you need it. More questions: The crank pulley has room for three belts: It appears that the alternator I have lines up with the middle section and uses a grooved belt: What would the V-belt be used for? AC? How about the forward belt? Power Steering? I don't know if the alternator I have is the one that came with the motor but it seems to fit here okay. This looks like a really tight fit with the radiator outlet though. I see a lot of VG30's with the alternator mounted on the opposite side of the motor. Can that still be done on the VG33? It would be nice to dig it out of this hole (it's always a pain on an L-motor 510) - especially since I will still be running the battery in the stock location. Lots of room on the opposite side. I'll have to check a couple of my VG30 blocks and see if they have mous that I can test fit. The other two grooves on your harmonic balancer/crank pulley are for A/C and power steering. There is a molded Napa hose that fits with that radiator and the alternator on the passenger's side when hung from a modified Z31 mount. Ray Stonehocker figured it out. I have the part number... somewhere. The thing that works best to mount the alternator (if the pulleys line up in your case) is to cut down the combo A/C and alternator bracket from a Z31. It ends up being a piece only about 3" tall and while it was originally on the driver's side flipping it to the passenger's hangs the alternator with the adjuster on the bottom and one of the stock tensioner brackets works (on a VG30) though I don't recall which one at this moment. You can run the alternator on the driver's side but you'll have to modify your wiring harness to suit. Also, there isn't as much room on that side with the VG33 as the oil filter mount keeps the alternator from being able to swing in as close to the block. The Xterra filter mount gives the most room. When swapping a VG33 into an early Pathy or Z31 we use the Xterra filter mount and have to extend the stock tensioner bracket 1-1/2" so there is enough adjustment range and offset it .300" rearward as the VG33's oil pump is also thicker. Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted June 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 I had a little time to play on the wagon this weekend. So I put on some tunes: Pulled out the red back seat Replaced it with the new black one I bought Cleaned up the floor really well and started wto install the carpet. I had to repair the rust under the gas pedal in front so I left out the front carpet while that was going on. I will be able to finish this next time I'm out there. I also replaced the missing rear door sill plates. Now I need to go through my stack of door panels and see if I have a set in black. Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted June 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 Found some time to play in the garage today so in the with music And in with the rest of the carpet Followed by a SWEET SSS shift knob And my favorite steering wheel (from my first ever 510) And some front seats. Looking good now! Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted June 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 Next step, swap out the sun faded red/maroon door panels for black... Right Rear Right Front Left Rear Left Front The doors all still look new inside! I use this tool to remove the Jesus clips and pop the door panel clips. Works great! I dug out my stack of door panels and found a really nice set! Unfortunately - I soon realized that the rear panels are for a 4dr - not a wagon. I will see if I can find a set (anyone have a pair of black rear wagon door panels, and a black rear tailgate panel too?) - if not, I will paint what I have, they are in good shape except for the color. I did find a nice suprise though, I found a set of black vinyl rear wheel well covers so I'll get those cleaned up and installed soon. Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 Lookin sweet as hell. Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 We have the same paint. Can you read your paint code. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 Carter, the sensor is for coolant temp. Quote Link to comment
Draynor Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 I want that maroon interior! So awesome :cool: 1 Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 That steering wheels pretty killer Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted July 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 We have the same paint. Can you read your paint code. 814 my friend Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted July 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 I want that maroon interior! So awesome :cool: We will talk! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 LSD + Disks = :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 RX7? On slimfast... Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 What happened to the pictures? Keeping it a secret?- I can edit my post lol... Upgrade should be nice. Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted December 15, 2013 Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 I just got caught up. Great work! Thanks for all the tips/tid-bits and links throughout the thread. It definitely helps to see those, even when just considering to do a VG build or not.... I just picked up a '91 Pathy for $200 and my wheels are spinning... Do you think Dave's estimate of $3000-$4000 for the conversion could be done for less with the same level of perfection? Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted December 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 Sit down and make a list. Try to be as complete as possible. If the final total goes up over your budget, look at it again and see what you can put off 'till later. Do you HAVE to lower it now? Do you HAVE to get those new seats you wanted? You get the idea. Just don't skimp on safety. You'r VG will get you to ridiculous speed way fastener than your L16, you'd better have brakes, suspension, tires etc in good working order so you can react appropriately. Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted December 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 I haven't had an update for a while because I haven't worked on the wagon for a while :crying: What freetime I've had has been spent working on Victoria's truck http://community.ratsun.net/topic/57139-bruiser-78-620-kc-project/ and making a mess in the garage... But I should have time over Christmas break to get the garage cleaned back up and start working on Rice Wagon again. I really want to get this thing on the road! --carter 1 Quote Link to comment
Claudman Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 Carter, I'd like some details on the rear end. I have the same out of a 84-85 RX7 GSL Se to put into my VG30 Wagon. I've cut the brackets off and getting read to narrow it, but would like to ask some questions on how you did yours. How much did you narrow yours? Looks like the RX 7 brakes set up to use the stock Datsun emergency brake parts. Very cool. Didi you have to do anything other than modify the connecting rods? What pinion angle did you use? Any comments would be great. Very nice looking rear end. Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 Your guna love the rear diff ;) good to see progress on this project. Canby or bust! Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.