jrock4224 Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 thanks carter .....that really is a step by step guide thanks for the read.....i wsa joking about moiving onto your property .... igot a spot down by the river all picked out for my cardboard box Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted August 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 thanks carter .....that really is a step by step guide thanks for the read.....i wsa joking about moiving onto your property .... igot a spot down by the river all picked out for my cardboard box Get it right, if you are going to live by the river, you need to be in a VAN!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWvgcQBt8mc&feature=endscreen&NR=1 Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 datsun doesnt make a van though....vanette excluded due to nissan adding ette at the end.... Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 What about the Datsun E20? Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 wow thats a big datsun Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 I think it's just the picture... It's probably no bigger than the vanette or a vanogan. Quote Link to comment
sedition88 Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Just based on the side windows it could be almost a 10 passenger Quote Link to comment
AuosGnaf Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Installation was pretty straight forward. Nice! Did you still run the lowering blocks after all this? Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 My leafs came in and I got a set of QA1 adjustable shocks to go with them. The shocks were slightly used from Kelvin. He wasn't happy with the damping but my spring rate is higher than his so hopefully they will work for me. I'm leary of the length at the moment, I think they are too long but we'll see. I'm interested in this.. how much did it cost, and how much did it lower your goon? 1 Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted December 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 The leafs were about $450/pr if I remember right (it was a couple years ago not) I had them made by Mark at http://www.flex-form.com/ 1-864-225-8070 He was very easy to deal with and the installation was easy. You can order whatever spring rate and ride height you want. Mine lowered my wagon about 2" which is really about as far as you can go without driveline tunnel work if you don't wnat your diff slapping the floor when you accellerate. I'll go lower later but this is good for now. If and when I do that mod, I can just add blocks for whatever drop I want. I need to get back out in the garage again and start making some progress so I can finally drive this thing! --carter Quote Link to comment
thebluethundercat Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 What did you do about the headers? did you just buy the cermachromed ones from dave or did the stock ones fit? Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted March 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 What did you do about the headers? did you just buy the cermachromed ones from dave or did the stock ones fit? I bought the ceramachromed version from Dave. They are pretty!!!! Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted March 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 It has been quite some time since I've posted an update. Thats because I haven't done squat on the car! I've been working long hours and spending all my "play time" on our remodel. I'm now to a point where I can go back out in the garage again and make something besides sawdust... Unfortunately, it has been so long since I've worked on the wagon that the garage was a disaster area. So, I put some music in the stereo Installed the new Nissan driveline bolts in the wagon that have been sitting on my front fender for two months And started cleaning. I had boxes and boxes of stuff to go through. Everything is out and sorted but I wanted to run tonight so I'll have to put it away tomorrow... I found some cool stuff I didn't know I had - a bunch of stuff that came with Trouble (my coupe from North Carolina), a bunch of junk, and a bunch of, well... Datsun parts. :thumbup: Unfortunatley, I came across one nasty suprise... Most of my stuff is in plastic flip-top bins. I have two bins with all the VG30ET parts for one of my other cars. When I opened it up, I noticed the cardboard box inside looked sad and deflated. I went to open it up and found it was wet! I think I had a heater core sitting on top of the bin at one time and it must have drained out inside. I had a set of VG30ET cam covers on top which were just fine, but underneath were some beautiful (well, they were) VG30ET rocker assemblies, a VG30ET ECU, and a box of Valve springs for my new Schneider cams. Everything was packed in what looked like kitty litter. I assume this is all corrosion from the dried coolant? The ECU may be toast. I'm hoping I can save the rocker assemblies. The springs actually look undamaged. They must have been nicely oiled. Fortunately, the cams themselves were in another bin, high and dry. Here are the rocker assemblies: And the poor ECU: Valve springs look okay even though the box is soaked: Here is what the rocker assemblies were "packed" in: Yuck!!! Any idea what I might use to clean these with? --carter Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted March 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Oh yeah, and I found two bucks in the ash tray! Woot woot!!! I realized I had actually never opened it since buying the wagon. There was two bucks, two lug nuts, some bolts and washers, two sockets (one snap-on), some screwdriver bits (one magnetic), and a jack-in-the box receipt for a chicken sandwich from 1995. : ) Quote Link to comment
maltese Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 I wonder if Evaporust would clean up that mess? That stuff is pretty amazing. Cool build; keep it up! Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted March 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Well the garage clean up took longer than I expected but I did way more than I had planned and I'm quite happy. I had miscellaneous boxes everywhere. I went through them all and sorted them into the correct bins and updated my "510 parts available" album here: http://datsun510.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3132 Two different Datsun guys stopped by today as well, so they took some parts with them. :w00t: It was nice spending the day in the garage with the music turned up. And when the cleaning was done. I still had time to work on the wagon. I wasn't sure what to do first but I knew that I wanted to get rid of the welded on tow brackets so that's what I did... Those welds weren't pretty but man were they tough! But in the end I won! If anyone wants these, let me know. And you can weld them on your 510. I will need to do some more grinding and paint over the bare metal but at least they are gone now and I can test fit a couple air dams I am thinking of using. Now it's time to play games with Corey. :hyper: Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 The only rust on the car is a few holes under the gas pedal. I'm not doing any welding on this build. That all comes later if/when I paint it someday. So I'm looking for a decent "in the mean time" solution. There is something better than fiberglass yes? Clean/zero-rust/fill? But fill with what? Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted March 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 Today I finally bolted the headers in place. They were just haning in place by a couple studs. I just had VG30 exhaust gaskets on hand so I had to open up the holes for the 10mm studs/bolts. The left rear bolt took FOREVER to get started and tightened. No room for fingers - let alone tools. I had to turn 1/12 turn, switch tools, 1/12 turn, switch tools, repeat. Hope I don't have to take these off any time soon! :no: Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted March 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 The e-brake cable lays right on top of the header. I don't see how this can be avoided. Seems like a good time to switch to a tranny tunnel mounted unit. Anyone have a favorite that they use? Maybe one from a z-car or something? Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted March 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 Next step - radiator install! The Experimental Engineering brackets make for a pretty clean installation using the factory mounting holes. Only bummer is that Griffin changed the tank design for this radiator so it is no longer available with the hydraformed tanks that these brackets fit. Quote Link to comment
JAKE719 Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 Those are BEAUTIFUL! Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted March 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 I'm going to run a pathfinder upper intake. This requires a modification to the lower intake in order to maintain hood clearance. So I had to remove the lower intake from my motor. Here is is before I started. Fuel rail removed Look at how clean those injectors are! Lower intake removed. What is the sensor on the top of the block? And more importantly, how do you un-do the connector? It was not obvious to me, so I'm just leaving it connected for now in case I don't even need to remove it. But I'd kind of like to clean up the surface rust and paint the top of the block while it's stripped down. Here are the intake sides of the heads. Spotless! Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 Knock sensor Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted March 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 The "old" intake is on the left. I have a "new" one cut and ready to swap in on the right. I want to clean it up first though so this was a good place to stop for the night... Plus, while it is off, I want to sort out the hard and soft lines to the heater. Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted March 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 Knock sensor That's what I figured. How do you remove the connector? Quote Link to comment
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