Duncan Posted May 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 Not too many photos, but the wags is all sanded. My friend is still trying to get a few cars out of our way so we can move the wagon into a makeshift booth to paint it. In the meantime, I have been doing some seam sealing and plan on spot spraying a bit of primer here and there and keep going over the car looking for small nits to pick prior to paint. Also a quick tip: A quick and dirty way to make stainless look pretty damn good if you don't have a buffer is to wet sand it with 2000 or 2500 grit sandpaper. I will wet sand a piece before I buff it just to clean it before it hits my buffing wheels. I'm always amazed how much better it looks just by doing that . Always difficult to photograph, but the sanded piece on the right, non-sanded on the left. I am going to Mike Kay's Memorial tomorrow night, (possibly with Freddie) so I will see you local guys tomorrow evening. 3 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Nice tip on the wet sanding! Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 Haven't posted in a while, but I'm still moving a bit on the wagon. My health is slowing me down a bit, but I'm slugging away at it. Unfortunately, it isn't likely I'm going to make JCCS this year with the wagon.. I'm waiting for my friend to clear some space in his shop so we can setup a paint booth. His shop is cram-packed, and he is working on getting some customer cars out the door. He's not the fastest at it, but his work is top notch, so people are patient with him. I've been doing a bunch of little things like buttoning up a few things on the wiring, fixing an absolutely absurd amount of leaks that popped up. (I have never seen a leaky speedometer cable, but yet I have one!) The car also can run and drive. No seats and no doors, but I've manuevered it in the shop under it's own with no problems. I was going to wait until I got it home, but since I'm waiting, I decided to tackle the floor pans. I'm stripping the undercoating off and painting them. I'm using a propane torch to heat and scrape a lot of the thick stuff off, then follow up with a few wire wheels. It's crazy doing this on my back, but it should look nice when it's all painted. The plan is to do both floor pans, then remove the driveshaft and do the tunnel. Depending on where we are on the shop booth, I may remove the rear axle and gas tank and tackle the back of the car next. As usual, hard to get a photo, but here's the drivers side clean and bare.. Have a nice 4th! 2 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 I forgot to ask. Since I have a Z 5-Speed trans in my car, do I need to pull a Z speedometer cable? I can't remember anyone saying the speedometer cable needs any attention with a trans swap..(except maybe the plastic gear) Can I assume these two are interchangeable? Thanks! Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 The same cable p/n comes up for 510 and 2wd 720 at my work (oreilly's). I actually bought one thinking it was for the 4x4 (it wasn't) but since it also matched my wagon, I just kept it. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 Just for grins.....and I can't find my S130 disc...... I looked up 510 and 910 510: 32703-21100 has 18 teeth 32703-22001 has 17 teeth 32703-22000 has 16 teeth 810: 07/80-05/83 32703-P2618 has 18 teeth 06/83- 32703-V1018 has 18 teeth If memory serves, it seems that most of the actual speedo pinions (shaft and gear) were almost identical and could be swapped from car to car. It was the # of teeth that made the difference. I think the cable should be for a 510. I will see if I can find my S130 disc for pinion #'s from it. 1 Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 I'm anxious to see this painted! You pay way more attention to detail than I do....it's going to be awesome i bet. 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 I'm anxious to see this painted! You pay way more attention to detail than I do....it's going to be awesome i bet. Thanks! I'm anxious to get it painted, too. I hate waiting, but the stuff I was planning to do AFTER it was painted is going on now. At least the project is still moving forward. And thanks for the help on the speedo cable. Believe it or not, Rockauto has two 510 cables listed. I bought the expensive one for $8.50! For some reason, they have them listed in the "Interior parts" category on their website. I'd never seen them listed before, so I assumed they were NLA. The leaking speedo cable is a first for me... 3 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 Little more info on speedo drive gears. 32703-78100 has 16 teeth 32703-78101 has 17 teeth 32703 78102 has 18 teeth These #'s are what are listed for 79-83. The leaking speedo cable thing I have run across before. A technician told me that if the seals on the pinion fail, that gear oil could run up and leak out at the connection to the speedo. 32710-14600 o-ring 32709-14600 seal no idea if these are still available. 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 The leaking speedo cable thing I have run across before. A technician told me that if the seals on the pinion fail, that gear oil could run up and leak out at the connection to the speedo. 32710-14600 o-ring 32709-14600 seal no idea if these are still available. Thanks Kelly. I printed those part numbers out and will see if I can find them. I appreciate you taking a look for me. edit: I searched those numbers and it looks like they are about $5.00 for both pieces. I'll check with the dealer tomorrow. 2 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 Kelly, the dealer had the two parts in stock, and I got it all pulled apart and replaced yesterday. Grand total for everything was around $15.00 I wish all repairs were this easy and cheap. Thanks again for your help! 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 Holy Crap! I'm not doing this again unless the car is on a rotisserie. I dropped out the exhaust and the driveshaft to get the trans tunnel cleaned and paint is going on tomorrow. We were supposed to move my wagon tomorrow, but the owner of the shop had some unexpected stuff turn up and is out of town. Looking like next Saturday is moving day. It's still frustrating having to wait, but the OzGoon is still going forward in the meantime. I still have to do the rear undercarriage area, but it's not happening for a while. 3 Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 I'm dreading doing this to mine. Floors look great though! 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 Thanks Jay. I did get it painted. I'm headed back to San Diego tomorrow, and I'll have some pics up in a day or two. I'm dreading doing this to mine. Floors look great though! 2 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted July 18, 2016 Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 Mark you are one crazy mofo.. Looks good this will be the goon of the decade once done beautiful work. Next is still my goon. But we will keep mine simple..lol 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Mark you are one crazy mofo.. Looks good this will be the goon of the decade once done beautiful work. Next is still my goon. But we will keep mine simple..lol No worries Ray. I will keep it ridiculously simple on your wagon. :) Speaking of simple.. Painted this last Saturday, and spent the day installing the exhaust, fuel line from the tank, and the driveshaft. I tried the stuff the 510 Keeper uses on his cars (Bejamin Moore stuff) and very happy with the result. Unfortunately, I now HAVE to do the rear of the car and the rear wheel wells, but not planning getting to it right away.. 6 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 Worked all day Saturday moving quite a few cars around. That wouldn't have been so bad, but my friend's shop flooded out quite badly a while back, (I posted a pic of the lake on the street) and some of the cars were in so much water, we had to free up stuck brakes, bearings, and even a clutch that was stuck on one of them. Bottom line is the car is in a nice big bay that has a big exhaust fan overhead. We have a RV cover that I can setup and cover in plastic. It's not fancy, but it should suffice nicely for a decent paint booth. OF course, I forgot to take a photo before I put the car cover on, but it's in it's new home for a while... And, I am also planning on pulling out the rear axle, springs, and fuel tank to clean and paint the rear undercarriage prior to paint. As much as I dislike that job, it's easier to fix anything that goes wrong now prior to paint. 5 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 Have these on the side of my house. I picked them up a few years ago around the time the goon landed at my house. Some guy was parting a wagon in the Central Coast of Cali, and these were super cheap. so I grabbed them. My question is: Has anyone "stiffened up" the rear end of their wagon? Mine was very squatty under acceleration, and I was never happy with it, even with the L20. Right now it has what appears to be 2" blocks, and since it's been off the road, I added a very short set of air shocks. My thinking on the shocks was to use the shortest pair, and adding some air would stiffen up the ride without lifting up the car too much. Haven't tried that theory out yet... It seems that I read here somewhere that it may be possible to change out a leaf or (possibly two) with hardbody pickup springs. Apparently they are thicker and stronger. I could also add a leaf or two, then have the assembly de-arched to get the lower stance without the blocks. I want to keep it low, but don't want it to ride like a logging truck :) Just wanted to kick the idea around to see if anyone has any solutions or ideas? 2 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 went to do an edit and hit quote instead..damn 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 Have you driven a Logging truck Mark. Lol 1 Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 I've run air shocks in other vehicles before, I think the ride isn't great. Stiff yes, but they don't really dampen anything. They are kinda bouncy. Have you asked a spring shop what they can do? The one near me can change the arch of the springs and whatnot. They may be able to do something, even if it's fitting a stiffer spring of the same size. Just a thought. 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted July 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 Have you driven a Logging truck Mark. Lol Why, yes Ray I have. It's like driving a big tanker, but with HUGE wood. :w00t: Have you asked a spring shop what they can do? The one near me can change the arch of the springs and whatnot. They may be able to do something, even if it's fitting a stiffer spring of the same size. Just a thought. I owned a 1200 Coupe prior to the Sunny, and I had a set of springs de-arched by a local shop before. There are quite a few decent spring shops in the area. The local shops are a bit pricey, and swapping a leaf out should be fairly simple. (famous last words) I'm going for a Ratsun-engineered approach :) Just wanted to kick the idea around to see if anyone has done something like this? The plus side is I have a spare set of springs to fool with. Was just wondering if anyone has tried it on a wagon. The squatting rear end is something I hear a lot from wagon owners. 2 Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 Folks flip a leaf to lower, but perhaps not stiffen. Also there was a composite leaf spring option. Was it http://www.flex-form.com/products.asp ?? Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 Perhaps not your first choice, but have you considered traction bars? Or would they not aid the issue to which you refer? Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 went to do an edit and hit quote instead..damn Just close the window! Quote Link to comment
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