John's 4 door 510

[djlotus]

I figured it was time that I make a project thread. And instead of running down my entire story, I bring you cliffnotes:

 

Made my way to Rutherfordton, NC to pick up this bad boy:

 

On the trip home, 60 miles east of Bristol, VA, this happened:

 

Got it home and started tearing it apart. Doing body work and such:

 

And then I picked up another L20 which I'm getting ready to slap in the car sometime soon (hopefully within the week):

 

The header on my new engine looks like it should clear everything and fit into my 510:

 

Except for this little spot where the header rubs on the driver side footwell, nothing a little massaging couldn't fix:

 

I also picked up some brakes (incl. ebrake) from a '79 280ZX for $50. That'll be fun rigging that stuff up.

 

That's how everything sits as of tonight. Soon I should have the fronts back in and the car and put the tires back on so I can move the car around and pull the old engine out.

 

Quick question: I'm having a bitch of a time getting the drain bolt/plug out of the transmission, it's a dogleg 5 speed, and I tried using a breaker bar to get the thing loose. Anybody have any tips or tricks?

[shane_lxi]

sweet, keep us updated :D. Sorry about your block :(.

[Icehouse]

fill it through the back up light switch hole, then take it to jiffy lube :D Those guys have a 4 foot breaker bar :D

[kiznook]

big fuggin piece of pipe on the breaker bar oughtta do 'er

 

Car looks like it's coming along. Do I remember seeing a picture on your myspace that looked like the battery and the hood made love?

[banzai510(hainz)]

Man that header is HUGE!!!!!

 

will it hang down and scap if car lowered?

 

 

I personally wound NOT run that header but make sure the intake flange and exhaust flange is the same thickness so the lower Nissan Washer mate flush and dont have water leak issues or sucking up water into the intake.

[kiznook]

If the engine you are using to test fit is a L16-18, there's no way the header will work with the L20. unless you want to channel your floor, and relocate the gas pedal

[djlotus]

Man that header is HUGE!!!!!

 

will it hang down and scap if car lowered?

 

 

I personally wound NOT run that header but make sure the intake flange and exhaust flange is the same thickness so the lower Nissan Washer mate flush and dont have water leak issues or sucking up water into the intake.

 

Still a newb to the whole L series engine thing, but my old engine has square ports, whereas my new one has round ports. Would I even be able to use my old header? Otherwise I gotta make this bad boy fit :P or find another header :mad:

 

I has more pix, should be up manana

[banzai510(hainz)]

I heard you can run one or the other for the header issue

I believe datsunaholic has the anwser on this one .PM him.

 

Also if you install on L20 as mention above the header could hit the tunnel if it was made for a L16/18.

 

Just my opinion here but I would use a short tube square port But you have a round port head.

I do have a round port short tube header but I dont know if I want to part with it yet.

I have had bad luck giving parts away to people that dont finnish their projects and just gets waisted then someone else comes along wanting the same part.

 

save that square port exhasit manifold and Y pipe incase you want to put the squre port back ON on the L20 block. Hopefully its not he stock L16 210 casting head but will still work if you need it running. Just has small ports and valves.

[Jason]

John, sounds like you have the W58 round port head then on the L20b to go with that nice comp oil pan :blink:. It's not the end of the world, mine works fine, but, I chose to run it with the stock, cast iron, shorty manifold because it's quieter. I have a new, shorty, round port header, but, I don't like/need the extra noise! The block from the L20b is 19mm higher than that of the L16/L18's so you may have clearance issues, you won't know until you fit the engine in place and try it. Looking good with the progress though!

[djlotus]

Thanks guys!

 

And yeah, it's got the W58 head on it, nothing special. If I knew more about engines I would swap the A87 head onto the good block. But since I don't, I won't, that'll be a project sometime down the line possibly. I'd post up some more pics right now, but I can't find the cord for my phone to hook it to my computer, dunno where the hell that went.

 

But, I did have my camera today and got some pics of the inside of the oil pan. And seeing as I won't be racing with the car, and from what I've been told the L-series doesn't have a problem with picking up oil (even with the occasional auto cross), it's gonna be up for sale when I get it all cleaned up and looking pretty.

 

As for today I finished painting (bottom) and priming (top) my hood. I also put the front struts back on minus the bumpsteer spacers just so I can get it rolling around. Might be able to pull the old engine out manana! But the new engine won't be able to go back in right away because I wanna replace a couple of gaskets and nobody has them in stock. The local Advance Auto can order them, but it's gonna be like 2 weeks. I'm gonna swing by Autozone tomorrow and see if they can get them any sooner. I'd like to have this thing back to moving under it's own power by this weekend, but this whole gasket issue seems like it won't be until sometime next week. Plus, I still need an air filter setup for the carb, but I think I got that covered.

 

Oooh, can somebody point me in the direction of which of the ZX struts had the 'bad' spindle angle? I was talking to Dave (Qwik510 on the realm) and he mentioned something about that.

 

Anyways, I'll try and get the rest of the pics I took the other day up manana (where'd that damn cable go??) and get a few more things done. Gonna try and shave the ZX tophats a little bit so that I can have my 510 and ZX tophats both fit in the strut tower, never hurts to have backups!

[bonvo]

 

 

ouch that blows the big one someone please tell me this isnt a common issue

[kiznook]

AFAIK all of the 280zx struts cause positive camber....meaning, you'll need camber plates, adjustable LCAs, or eccentric control arm bushings.

 

Might as well go for coilovers and camber plates :D

[djlotus]

Might as well go for coilovers and camber plates :D

I'll be able to do that when I get some moneys.

 

 

Today I feel like I got a good amount of work done. Working all by my lonesome makes some things a bit tougher, but eh, I'm not gonna wait a day or too for help. Went to autozone and ordered me up a valve cover gasket and an itake/exhaust manifold gasket. Oddly enough they had the oil pan gasket in stock. I still can't find the damn thing to get pics off my phone, but I did get a shot or two in with my camera.

 

I couldn't help but take that pic. When I turned the lights off and the garage door opener light was shining on it... it was a beautiful thing.

 

As for what I got done: got the driveshaft off, transmission unbolted from the car, got the hoses and accessories and shit removed from the engine, pushed the car back (which was kinda hard because the garage/driveway are on an incline and keeping it from rolling away was kinda tough), got the hoist hooked up, and most of all; cleaned up the damn garage and reorganized my mess.

 

Tomorrow, the engine and tranny come out, and the 'new' engine gets put back together awaiting its transplant into the car whom I think will be named Violet. Not a set name, but after I paint it, the name might stick.

[moparvwfreak]

very nice! i want one so bad. but i would love a wagon.

[Ethereal510]

I love 4 doors, I wish I could afford another dime I would get one. Good luck with the build!

[qwik510]

I figured it was time that I make a project thread. And instead of running down my entire story, I bring you cliffnotes:

 

Made my way to Rutherfordton, NC to pick up this bad boy:

 

On the trip home, 60 miles east of Bristol, VA, this happened:

 

Got it home and started tearing it apart. Doing body work and such:

 

And then I picked up another L20 which I'm getting ready to slap in the car sometime soon (hopefully within the week):

 

The header on my new engine looks like it should clear everything and fit into my 510:

 

Except for this little spot where the header rubs on the driver side footwell, nothing a little massaging couldn't fix:

 

I also picked up some brakes (incl. ebrake) from a '79 280ZX for $50. That'll be fun rigging that stuff up.

 

That's how everything sits as of tonight. Soon I should have the fronts back in and the car and put the tires back on so I can move the car around and pull the old engine out.

 

Quick question: I'm having a bitch of a time getting the drain bolt/plug out of the transmission, it's a dogleg 5 speed, and I tried using a breaker bar to get the thing loose. Anybody have any tips or tricks?

 

John,

 

The header looks like it will fit. As you said, a little massaging and it should clear. Looks like you are making real progress. We should be able to get the new motor dropped in soon. If I know you, you probably won't wait for me. I can help you if you give me some notice.

 

Keep it up. You will be driving it to Summit Point in May.

 

FYI:

 

John's broken motor is an L20b and will be replaced by another L20B. The replacement motor came out of a 1st gen 200SX. It came with the Comp Oil pan and the header.

[djlotus]

Well I'm hating the engine right about now. I got the old engine out, all by myself (lousy no good friends), and got the valve cover and oil pans cleaned up and put onto the new engine with new gaskets. So I figured I was on a roll and things would be kosher for the rest of the night. Oh how wrong I was. First off, I get the flywheel on and all torqued up nice, only to realize I forgot that damn plate that fits between the flywheel and the block. So I take it back off, put on the plate, and put the flywheel back on. No biggie, but still a little slip up. Then one of my friends finally decides to show up and we try to get the tranny on the new engine. No dice. Come to find out the tranny has a positioning dowel (pin? I dunno) where the old block had a hole. On the new block there was also a positioning dowel. But its in the exact same place as the one on the tranny. Fackin shite! Luckily I was able to start pushing one of them out by threading a bolt into it and tightening it, the tranny is giving up its positioning rights. So tomorrow afternoon, I'll finish pushing that thing out and get the tranny back on. Hopefully I can get somebody over to help me guide it back into the car for that is one thing I will not attempt to do all by myself.

 

And a few pics from the day:

 

Some remnants of the carnage:

 

I'm pretty bushed right about now. I had a long day.

[DatDoug]

Dude I always forget to put that fuckin thing on! I always seem to remember rite as I am torquing the last pressure plate bolt:blink:

[qwik510]

John,

 

Looking good. You are really making progress.

 

Please tell me that last picture is of the old motor. Did you take any pics of the new motor without the oil pan or valve cover on?

 

Do you plan on cleaning up the engine compartment before putting in the new motor? Make sure you inspect the frame rails for rust issues while you can look at everything. Also, take a coat hanger and clean out the center cowl drain now before you put the motor and trans back in.

[hang_510]

clean out the center cowl drain now before you put the motor and trans back in.

 

:thumbup:

i found an old pull tab in mine :blink: and 10lbs of other :poop:

 

 

 

lemme know about the pan if it hasnt been spoken for.

[djlotus]

So I forgot to clean out the cowl. Oops.

 

I suppose that would be an indication of me having gotten the engine/tranny back in the car. And it is.

 

Kind of stuck for the moment, I have two alternators, one from the old engine and one from the new. The one from the new engine seems to be just slightly larger than the old one.

Is this one of those situations where bigger is better?

 

Lastly: I need to know what fluids to buy. What kind of oil does an L20B take? What type of oil should I get for the tranny?

 

After I get those things in and hook everything else up, I should be able to fire it up. Then again, it's more of a test fire because I stil need a filter element thing for the carb and I'm gonna have to wait for Dave's expertise on getting it going. Guess I'll go back to doing body work for the time being.

[fisch]

The replacement motor came out of a 1st gen 200SX. It came with the Comp Oil pan and the header.

 

No way a gen 1 200sx! What happened to it. Those cars are rarer than rare and so cool looking. Any pics of it?

 

Great and FAST build going on here. MAking me feel like a snail!

[djlotus]

The car is almost running! Just a few more things to do: hook up the coil and dizzy (which may be hard because my hacked up), fill the tranny with fluid, and a few other little things (couple hose clamps and a cotter pin).

 

Dave came over to lend a hand and give me some pointers. We chatted for awhile and then he had to get back home.

 

And where I left off tonight:

[djlotus]

Tried to start her today. Didn't happen. Carb isn't getting any fuel. Tomorrow I'm going to see if some of the lines are clogged. If not, I'm tossing it up to a fuel pump that's been sitting for at least 3 years.

 

Is there any way to tell if a pump is bad? Also consider that I never have anybody around to help me...

 

Hopefully I can take her for my 'victory lap' tomorrow.

[]2eDeYe]

Is there any way to tell if a pump is bad?

 

From the last pic it doesn't look like the fuel pump is hooked up.

 

To check the pump, hook fuel tank hose to it. Leave the other side unhooked and turn over the motor.

 

Gas everywhere? If yes, pumpworks....if not hook the line up to the other port and turn it over again.

 

Gas everywhere? If yes, pumpworks...if not it could be a clogged fuel line.

 

Check your filter. Pull it off and blow through it. If you can't blow through it,replace it. If chunks come out,replace it. If it's orange,just replace it, it was time anyways. Usually the clear ones will look a dingy brown...just compare to a new one if the new filter looks 'new' then change the filter. It's also a good idea to keep a nice and clean filter before and after the pump in any old ride, very cheap insurance.

 

Check your line..Before the filter take a blow gun, some compressed air and a friend and blow the air into the line. Have your friend (um anybody that can hear is good) listen down the tank fill tube with the cap off.

Hear bubbles? If yes, your lines are clear. If not your lines are probably clogged . You can check each section with air...but...

 

The tank could be empty...don't laugh

...well I laughed, see I know this guy that had no car for 6 months, because he though he needed an in-tank fuel pump and was to lazy to replace it.

When the tank finally got dropped, by someone else, it turned out to be empty... time to make sure...

 

If everything checks out and still no gas...pull the pump off and inspect it. If it's not visibly broken and fixable then the diapham is prolly bad.

 

Time for a new pump. :D