John's 4 door 510

[mklotz70]

With no gas in the lines, it will take a good bit of cranking to get the fuel up to the carb, even if the pump is good. You could put a short piece of hose from the IN on the pump into a water bottle filled with gas. Usually if the pump diaphram goes bad, gas shoots out a hole in the bottom half of the pump.....depending on the design.

 

If I was trying to see if a motor would fire up, I prime it with some gas(1/2oz) down the carb or a shot of starting fluid. Either way, it will prove if the motor runs. The gas prime usually runs longer....which will helf the pump pull the fuel up from the tank.

[djlotus]

2eDeYe;47180']From the last pic it doesn't look like the fuel pump is hooked up.

 

To check the pump' date=' hook fuel tank hose to it. Leave the other side unhooked and turn over the motor.

 

Gas everywhere? If yes, pumpworks....if not hook the line up to the other port and turn it over again.

 

Gas everywhere? If yes, pumpworks...if not it could be a clogged fuel line.

 

Check your filter. Pull it off and blow through it. If you can't blow through it,replace it. If chunks come out,replace it. If it's orange,just replace it, it was time anyways. Usually the clear ones will look a dingy brown...just compare to a new one if the new filter looks 'new' then change the filter. It's also a good idea to keep a nice and clean filter before and after the pump in any old ride, very cheap insurance.

 

Check your line..Before the filter take a blow gun, some compressed air and a friend and blow the air into the line. Have your friend (um anybody that can hear is good) listen down the tank fill tube with the cap off.

Hear bubbles? If yes, your lines are clear. If not your lines are probably clogged . You can check each section with air...but...

 

The tank could be empty...don't laugh

...well I laughed, see I know this guy that had no car for 6 months, because he though he needed an in-tank fuel pump and was to lazy to replace it.

When the tank finally got dropped, by someone else, it turned out to be empty... time to make sure...

 

If everything checks out and still no gas...pull the pump off and inspect it. If it's not visibly broken and fixable then the diapham is prolly bad.

 

Time for a new pump. :D[/quote']

 

That pic was from a few days ago. Everything is all hooked up now. And there is gas on the tank. The old engine blew right after I topped off the tank in Johnson City, TN (blew 60 miles east of Bristol, VA ~80 miles total). Since I don't have an air compressor, I'll pick up a can or 2 of compressed air. Thanks for telling me what I should check! And worse comes to worse, I have the pump off the old engine and I have a brand spanking new pump coming in soon, yay eBay!

 

 

With no gas in the lines, it will take a good bit of cranking to get the fuel up to the carb, even if the pump is good. You could put a short piece of hose from the IN on the pump into a water bottle filled with gas. Usually if the pump diaphram goes bad, gas shoots out a hole in the bottom half of the pump.....depending on the design.

 

If I was trying to see if a motor would fire up, I prime it with some gas(1/2oz) down the carb or a shot of starting fluid. Either way, it will prove if the motor runs. The gas prime usually runs longer....which will helf the pump pull the fuel up from the tank.

 

Wouldn't gas eat through the water bottle? Anywho, I meant to pick up some starter fluid, I'll do that tomorrow too.

 

Hopefully tomorrow afternoon I'll have good news to report and maybe a small video of me grinning like an idiot with the engine running in the background :lol:

 

Thanks guys!

[mklotz70]

Nope....had a water bottle w/gas running one of my rigs for months....so I could move it around the yard. Gas eats right through foam. It's a way to avoid picking up crap from a gas tank you're not sure about...or if you remove the tank to work on it....you can still move the rig.

[djlotus]

Still no go... *sigh* Come to find out, the car isn't getting any spark. I'm gettin really fed up with this damn coil/distributor combo. I miss my simple Honda.

 

A neighbor let me borrow a multimeter, so hopefully I can track down what's missing as far as power goes.

[]2eDeYe]

Simple Honda???

 

Isn't that like Military Intelligence?

 

Do you have point's or electronic ignition?

[djlotus]

Points

[Jason]

John, did you set your dwell for the points yet?

[djlotus]

Ummm, what? I'm pretty good at wrenching and getting things to fit and such, but when it comes actual operation, I'm pretty green :(

 

I have a friend coming over to help me today... hopefully we can get this figured out. I'll be back later tonight. Thanks for everything guys!

[banzai510(hainz)]

No spark

ck this

 

 

blk/wht wire will have 12volt when key in ON position

blk /blu is the HOT start. which will have 12volts on START position. it bypasses the resisitor to give full spark.

 

A 4 $ automotive test light is ezer to use if do not know how to use a meter.

 

If in dought pull the wire then turn the key and see if 12volts.

 

If you have both of these VOLTAGES then the car will run once you figure out WHY the points are not causeing the COIL to firie. Points fire when they are open.

set points when its at a lobe on the distributor. set to .020 gap or wing it at a little more than a Matchbook cover.

 

ck wire inside make sure grounded or you didnt ground the coil by mistake hooking up the incorrect wires to it.

[djlotus]

Hainz, thank you for the diagram. I actually made a copy of that earlier (found it in a different thread). And it helped me out a bit.

 

Good News! She runs! Kinda!

 

My friend who knows a 'little bit' about coil/distributor setups and carbs came over today. We went over the whole setup and a couple other little things and got her to fire up!

 

1. Replaced the coil (got spark!)

2. Replaced the fuel pump (pump on 'new' engine wasn't pumping)

 

It would give us a few mean grunts (by mean I mean awesome) and then proceed to die. So he's watching the carb while I crank it. Come to find out the carb is all clogged up. So now I guess I have to get a rebuild kit and give that a go. All things considered, I'm in a great mood right now!

 

I do have a few more questions which I'll get to in a minute, I just have to get the pics off my camera.

[djlotus]

Couple funny pics:

 

Look what i found when I took the oil pan off, hiding where the timing chain is

 

Casualty

 

Battery terminal setup

 

 

Question, what do these wires go to?(White wire mid left and red bottom right)

[Jason]

Ummm, what? I'm pretty good at wrenching and getting things to fit and such, but when it comes actual operation, I'm pretty green :(

 

Here's the description of dwell angle John....

 

"Dwell angle, a term used in automotive context, indicating the degrees of rotation of the distributor cam during which the ignition contact breaker points in the distributor are closed. "

 

You need a meter to do it accurately or do it Hainz's way which should get the engine going....

 

What's with hose clamp in the engine?

[]2eDeYe]

It's not working if your not bleeding. :D

 

Hard to tell with the pic zoomed in so far but I'll guess the white wire is your temp sender.

[djlotus]

Here's the description of dwell angle John....

 

"Dwell angle, a term used in automotive context, indicating the degrees of rotation of the distributor cam during which the ignition contact breaker points in the distributor are closed. "

 

You need a meter to do it accurately or do it Hainz's way which should get the engine going....

 

What's with hose clamp in the engine?

 

Well the engine runs. And it sounds great, but then again having no exhaust does that I suppose, but the carb is clogged and isn't spraying any fuel. So a rebuild is in order.

 

As for the clamp in the engine... I have no clue. I was cleaning up the engine and swapping the necessary parts (motor mounts, oil pan, other little things) and it was looking at me when I flipped the engine over. It took me a good 10 mins of fiddling around to get the damn thing out. I'm really curious as to how it got in there.

 

2eDeYe;47694']It's not working if your not bleeding. :D

 

Hard to tell with the pic zoomed in so far but I'll guess the white wire is your temp sender.

 

Hehe, the car demands a sacrifice! I guess a further out pic/better description woulda been better than what I posted up. Umm, those wires are coming off of the back of the carb. I don't have a book for a 200sx, so I can't quite look it up, and the only wire I know is blue which'd be for the auto choke. At least I think I know that much :blink:

[]2eDeYe]

It is most likely the idle control solenoid, or it could be an emission control of some sort. (I'm not too familiar with the Hitachi)

 

Hoopefully someone else can verify.

[djlotus]

2eDeYe;47733']It is most likely the idle control solenoid' date=' or it could be an emission control of some sort. (I'm not too familiar with the Hitachi)

 

Hoopefully someone else can verify.[/quote']

 

Well the red wire is def an idle solenoid. Without that hooked up to a power source the car stalls out. Speaking of this, it keeps the engine running after I turn the car off. No dieseling, but running like normal. Just to test the wire we hooked it up to the + side on the coil and it starts and runs fine, just won't shut off. Should this go to a different power source or should I install a switch to have a (very weak) anti-theft getup.

 

That aside, SHE RUNS! She can finally move under her own power. I got her into the driveway into some sunlight for the first time since I got her home in November.

 

Woohoo, listen to the beast:

 

Got a couple things I gotta get done before I will consider her road worthy: get the thing so I can put an air filter on the carb, hook up the pcv valve, get a tach, find out why thermostat housing thinks its a teakettle and adjust the throttle. The throttle spring that connects to the lever that pushes the plunger has a kink (?). Instead of being a spring that goes like this (/////) it goes like this (///).

 

As for the teakettle comment, where does this thing go:

 

old one has a different setup:

 

And it looks like this when it's running:

 

Anybody know the operating temp for an L20b? On my '69 temp gauge it reads at about the m and p in TEMP.

 

And I did take it for a little spin today. Felt great. And people kept looking at me. but that was probably because I had a multicolored, tiny, fenderless, old car :lol:

[]2eDeYe]

Motor sounds good...:D

 

The last pic shows what should be in that port. Those are vaccum control switches for a vaccum actuated choke. If you have an electric choke, plug that port with a plug. I believe a brass pipe plug will work, can't remember the size off of the top of my head.

 

If you still have a vaccum actuated choke swap in the 2 post fitting and run some vaccum lines...

 

The fitting you have installed on the motor is either broken or broken.

 

I also don't remember how to spell vaccum...so if it's mis-spelled :fu:

[hang_510]

2eDeYe;48688'']...the motor is either broken or broken.

:lol: your spelling sucks like vacuum :fu:

 

Anybody know the operating temp for an L20b? On my '69 temp gauge it reads at about the m and p in TEMP.

 

depends on the gauge/wire condition/sender on where it will run. theyre not calibrated :P

180* thermostat is stock. use a thermometer to verify temp against the gauge.

mine('72) ran around the T & E w the L20

[]2eDeYe]

:fu:

[banzai510(hainz)]

OK what is this red wire.???????????????????

I have a stock L20 carb from a truck and it has a antideiseling selinoid on there but its NOT RED!!!!!!!!!!

One is the choke wire.another selinoid, the other BCDD(whatever it is)

 

Going from the Dime Quarterly eleltrical secion on IR alternator swap it says the later 510s 72/73 and assume later 620s have the relay and doesnt really want 12volts but like 6 volts ,this is the relay. Please read this carefully but what I understand the Anti selinoid just take 12volts just fine.

 

Now if your 510 with the Key OFF and still runs like normal. then its most likely the external volt reg. IM hoping you dont have a IR internal reg alternator and still running on the External regulator.(I SEEN a DUDE DO THIS!!)

 

the STAT housing you have is the later common l20 ones.

But maybe go to Rockauto.com Beck Arnely and cross ref the brass senders but I would think they would be the same part # reisistance value.

also ck to make sure the motor is timed and the lower hose isnt collapsing when you give it gas(Its not pressureing or hose is soft) and also swap another rad cap .

I sometime sdrill a 1/8 hole in the top of the stat to help get rid of the air bubbles.

try a 160 stat. they are common 54mm size. as I dont really see a listing for 160 at the Parts store but the 54mm will work

 

 

PS I see alot of RED wires on the driver side and going behined the brake master? what is that

[djlotus]

PS I see alot of RED wires on the driver side and going behined the brake master? what is that

 

One was the coil to distributor, and the other ones were the alligator clips we were using to try and get the car to run and not immediately die.

 

And for my update, I'm gonna be lazy and just copy the one I posted on the realm:

 

Finished my spray bombing and got the car home a few days ago. Replaced the thermostat housing gaskets and no more leak! So all that's really left to do before I start driving it everywhere:

 

Connect the idle wire to a switched power source so it won't keep running after I turn it off

Get a battery

Fix the bottom fender mounting points

Install the sidemarker lights

Get the exhaust installed

 

The bottom fender mounting bolts as they came off the car:

 

Snazzy steering wheel and horn button:

 

And the car sitting happily in front of my house:

[hang_510]

werent you looking for a 5-spd?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-5-speed-TRANSMISSION-510-610-710-good-shape_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33733QQihZ018QQitemZ280219177950QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[djlotus]

werent you looking for a 5-spd?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-5-speed-TRANSMISSION-510-610-710-good-shape_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33733QQihZ018QQitemZ280219177950QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

Actually, I have a dogleg 5sp, thanks tho.

 

 

Got my exhaust installed yesterday. But now my wipers don't work. Which really sucked seeing as it rained last night.

[]2eDeYe]

Looks good.

 

If that's primer and you are in a wet climate I would seal it soon ;)

[bonvo]

its comming along nicly