No bass?

[oldschool90]

Hey all, hope you can give me your thoughts on this issue I've got, but before we start, I want to clarify something: Yes, I do know how to use my radio. Yes, the bass is all the way up. Yes, the speakers are vibrating like crazy (to the point of really distorting the music). Yes, it worked PERFECTLY in another car. Yes, it's wired correctly. No, I'm not crazy.

 

O.K. Now that i cleared that up, I installed an aftermarket radio into my truck, with aftermarket speakers, out of my wrong wheel drive Hon-duh (been waiting to post that forever since i read it on this site ). It worked beautifully in my Hon-duh, including bass 'response' Thats what I would call it anyways, in place of the correct term for the thing that causes the car to shake during low notes. So I get it in, wire it up, works perfectly, crank up the bass and I get nothing like I felt in the Hon-duh. What could this be? Could the truck body really be absorbing all that bass? It's like music comes out but I cant hear any bass at all. Thoughts?

 

 

 

P.S. heres a pic of my setup. I'll try to post more pics soon.

 

[Braden]

hey bro your honda had 6x9's not just 4.5 inch coaxials. put some 6x9's behind the seat, problem solved.

P.S. you get what you pay for when you buy audio equipment.

[datzenmike]

At a bare minimum you want 8-10" speakers for base. With proper matching enclosures. Even 6X9s just won't cut it. Spend some money here. Remember it's the speaker that you hear. A $4,000 amp will still sound like shit played through a $20 pair of speakers.

 

Try reversing the wires on one of the speakers. See if that helps. One could be out of phase with the cone moving back while the other is moving forward. This will cause a canceling of the sound waves. Both cones must be moving in the same direction.

[oldschool90]

hey bro your honda had 6x9's not just 4.5 inch coaxials. put some 6x9's behind the seat, problem solved.

P.S. you get what you pay for when you buy audio equipment.

 

Coaxials? Is that German or something? Not sure what language you're speaking. If you could put that in English? Like I said, it worked/sounded fine in the Honda, then I transfered it to the truck and it sounded like crap.

 

P.S. The speakers were $5 each at our junkyard. Like I said, it worked/sounded fine in the Honda, then I transfered it to the truck and it sounded like crap.

 

P.S. Like I said, it worked/sounded fine in the Honda, then I transfered it to the truck and it sounded like crap. ()

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

Are the terminals and the speaker wires Isolated from "grounding" on the body

[thisismatt]

See that hole directly below the speaker, and the other holes around it? Speakers make sound be creating pressure waves - a front wave and a rear wave, equal and opposite (give or take) on alternate sides of the speaker cone. Those holes allow the rear wave to couple with the front wave and cancel it out, thus no bass. Whether the driver is in an enclosure or infinite baffle, the rear wave needs to be separated from the front wave. You need to seal any holes on that panel that will allow the rear wave through.

[I'm BLUE]

Are the terminals and the speaker wires Isolated from "grounding" on the body

 

^^^ Holy Crap ,,, a serious post are youz dieing ? :lol: ,,, where's 510freak , what did you do to him ? :unsure:

 

Back on topic ^^^ what he said :D

[thisismatt]

Coaxials? Is that German or something? Not sure what language you're speaking. If you could put that in English? Like I said, it worked/sounded fine in the Honda, then I transfered it to the truck and it sounded like crap.

 

P.S. The speakers were $5 each at our junkyard. Like I said, it worked/sounded fine in the Honda, then I transfered it to the truck and it sounded like crap.

 

P.S. Like I said, it worked/sounded fine in the Honda, then I transfered it to the truck and it sounded like crap. ()

Coaxial is the type of speaker you have. The tweeter and midrange driver are in a co-axial alignment (both on the same axis). As opposed to a component speaker where the tweeter is mounted away from the axis of the midrange driver.

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

^^^ Holy Crap ,,, a serious post are youz dieing ? :lol: ,,, where's 510freak , what did you do to him ? :unsure:

 

Back on topic ^^^ what he said :D

 

 

:lol:

 

I left all the hole talk for Matt :lol:

[KrazzyKevin]

If all you've got are those two front speakers you shouldn't expect to get much bass performance out of the system. Your Honduh ( :lol: ) must have had some additional speakers/subs OR an amp in it if you were getting some good bass out of it. However, in a small truck like yours just a small sub will pound really well. I've got a single cab 720 with one 8 inch sub in a box behind the seat, and it hits hard.

 

You should also invest in an amp if you don't have one. You cant really expect to get good bass power out of the built in amp in your deck.

 

My setup looks like this:

 

 

Sorry for the crappy cell pic. I've got an 8 inch kenwood sub and a 500 watt alpine amp. Works great.

[MikeRL411]

Put a "Bazooka" bass speaker and amp behind the driver's seat. Might not make the music any better but you get a kidney massage.

[ggzilla]

I don't know what "coaxial speakers" are, but i do know a lot about car stereos?

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

quote name='ggzilla' date='15 September 2010 - 09:24 PM' timestamp='1284611058' post='353161']

I don't know what "coaxial speakers" are, but i do know a lot about car stereos?

[

[Spades]

ok, so, first rule of bass for sound systems....sound waves are produced by the speaker cone, and size DOES matter. A long throw 8 inch woofer that costs $2,000 will beat most $100 12 inch woofers, but when materials and magnet structure are the same, bass output is affected by the cone size of the speaker.

 

That is why everyone suggested you buy some 6x9s to toss behind the seats...more cone equals more bass. The problem with 6x9's is they will distort long before a round speaker will...its because the design of the oval, the cone is more prone to causing distortion when the speaker is pushed hard.

 

If you don't have the money for a true subwoofer and amp set up, if you get creative you can build something yourself. Places like parts express sell small subwoofers with low power requirements in sizes ranging from 4 to 8 inches, they fit and work nicely in a small box, and if you buy a low pass cross over, can be run off of deck power.

 

What you will need to buy is a couple low pass cross overs(usually in the $20 range), a couple woofers(tang bands work well, can be as cheap as $20), and build or buy some small boxes. run them off of your rear channel to provide the bass that your small front speakers cannot provide.

[oldschool90]

All I want is the performance I was getting out of the Honda. I did have two rear speakers, but they are POS. No i dont have any other amps or anything hooked up, just the power from the system. (200 watts, 50x4 rms) So basically what thisismatt is saying, if I make a center console or something and make it airtight inside, I'll get more bass? 510freak yes the speakers are isolated from grounding on the body. I dont want to have to pay for amps or more speakers if I dont have too.

[thisismatt]

All I want is the performance I was getting out of the Honda. I did have two rear speakers, but they are POS. No i dont have any other amps or anything hooked up, just the power from the system. (200 watts, 50x4 rms) So basically what thisismatt is saying, if I make a center console or something and make it airtight inside, I'll get more bass? 510freak yes the speakers are isolated from grounding on the body. I dont want to have to pay for amps or more speakers if I dont have too.

I wouldn't put them in a small enclosure due to them being low powered and the smaller the enclosure you put them in, the quicker the low end rolloff will be (output will decrease more rapidly the lower the frequency). Doors are decent for most applications with only 6.5" drivers, and are better if you can seal the back wave off (cover the holes in the sheetmetal interior panel. I'm not sure how the truck is, but try covering all the visible holes in those kick panels with something that will both seal them and be rigid enough not to flex and act like a passive radiator, and see what you get. Your deck doesn't actually do 50w per channel rms - it's just not true. Most decks will do around 17w rms, maybe 20-22wrms per channel if you're lucky. Ever notice how big even a 50w per channel 2ch amplifier is? You don't have all that power supply and amplifier stage circuitry in your deck, plus all the other circuitry...it just doesn't work that way and decks are overrated or rated on "peak" or "max" power which is meaningless.

[izzo]

to long, didnt read. but!

 

like thisismatt said, they do create waves. I use to work for R/T enterprises (they build speaker boxes, look them up :D )

 

Putting them in the kick panels will work, but you will have shitty bass. IIRC a 10" box needs like 1 1/4 square feet of air space behind it, enclosed to correctly thump... I might be wrong on the square footage, but google it i'm sure that info is on the net somewhere. Get a cheap 20 dollar set of boxes from a best buy or something and throw ur speakers in them. (if you get the boxes from best buy, they are probably made by R/T)

[HRH]

"Don't waste your money on a new set of speakers, you'll get more mileage from a cheap pair of sneakers!" - Billy Joel :)

[elmerfudpucker]

 

First, put a small handful of pillow stuffing behind the speaker. Second, get some 1/4" MDF wood and make you some kick panels that will cover that area, cut a hole and remount the speaker. A bit of sealant around the hole and the perimeter of the panel will help. The pillow fuzz will make the speaker behave like it is in a bigger area (like your car door. If you are trying to get bass you need a sub/amp combo. 5 1/4 +6 1/2" inch speakers do not make good bass, unless they are higher end speakers like Tangban (longest excursion 6" in the world ATM), Zapco (expensive but worth every penny), or a Bullfrog Legend (one of the loudest 4" you will ever hear IMO). But don’t expect to get a lot out of your setup now. Your speakers had an entire door to use as airspace (2 to 3 cubic feet) now it has .2 cubic feet between the both of them.

 

I dont have any idea what I am talking about...other than I have the loudest datto here! ;)

[oldschool90]

So, If I want to make my own speaker box, should I isolate each speaker in its own box, or can they share the same airspace in a single box?

[thisismatt]

They should be in their own separate enclosures. Again, putting those drivers into small enclosures is going to limit low end output. Smaller drivers like that need a fair amount of cubic feet to operate efficiently with the limited amount of power you have and the drivers' limited excursion.

[Spades]

A way that you can get around the small enclosure dilemma is to seal the chamber off with a dense material such as dynomat, a thick sound deadening undercoat in a spray can, or fiberglass resin. After you have a dense "speaker box", load it with an acoustic dampening material. You can buy it from places like parts express, but on a budget, a synthetic fiber found in cheaper pillows will work. I have used it before, and it will give your small box roughly a 30% gain in size.

[oldschool90]

Dynomat/resin on the inside or outside? And where can I buy it? Is there a certain point where if I make the box too big, it'll hurt the performance?

[kmc63]

Basss are pretty much a bottom fish and to me taste like mud. Now salmon or better yet halibut thats good stuff.

[HRH]

Whoa, back the train up here. Bass are NOT a bottom fish. They eat other fish. They taste great, are you kidding me? Yes they live/hunt in shallow water, but c'mon, they're not a carp! That's a sucker bottom fish. And it depends on what kind of bottom. Halibut is a bottom fish, as shown here way back when I was a kid:

 

 

Pardon me for the threadjack!