22r or 22re in a 620?

[Guest DatsuNoob]

If I remember 22r's have front sump pans. It's very likely the steering link interferes.

[HRH]

If you're still looking for a motor, I have the VG for sale. Shipping would be a bitch. Maybe a ratsuner is taking a trip to AZ?

[skunk]

lol, i just saw this, i must have been baked

1- i dont rember posting this

2- i think theres to meny 0's

i did have a 22r that got to 535,000

[poor-mans-720]

do it,.... I am putting a 22r into my 720. For the sole purpose of wheeling. What are the chances if something Datsun/Nissan breaks, one of my wheeling buddies will have a spare? 0.0000091??

but then again, my buddy in his 4Runner, and the 53% of the other wheelers on the trails being yota. Its a convenience/redundancy thing... Hate to have to tow my rig from the top of a mountain cause a distributor or coil or anything stupid broke. and instead of swapping another in and driving on.

Eghh.... do it. Purist will be purists.

[metalmonkey47]

Master_o_turbonics is building an LZ23 with a closed port A87, cam, forged pistons, Z20 rods, etc with Z20E EFI and turbo for his 521 wheelin rig. We were actually just talking about it a couple of hours ago.

 

 

In his words:

 

my LZ shortblock already has forged Mahle pistons in it

ARP main studs

3/8" rod big block chevy bolts

Z20 long rods

Z22 crank

bottom end is better than most race preped L series engines.

i spent like 100 hours prepping parts and grinding the interior of the block etc... then final assembly

 

But of course, he's a fab guy. Gets paid to build race spec cages for BMW's, and builds GTR race cars. Totally different ball game.

[EricJB]

has anyone ever swapped a 22r or 22re in their 620 before?

 

Not that I have ever seen, but I've never been to Arkansas. The Toyota 20r/22r is a great engine. Toyota 4x4's are great rigs. I dont think anyone can argue with that. It's your truck, and you can do what you like with it, But IMO you would be going backwards.

 

If you read the Jason Gray thread, you will see that the Datsun L/Z motors are a lot like the SBC. From 1.6 to 2.4, they all share the same bore spacing, head bolt pattern, oil pan, and for most, the same water pump. This allows you to build a motor tailored for your specific application (from the wrecking yard), while maintaining stock appearance and fit. They are also as strong as an anvil. There are a few of us here that are the R @ D for what these motors will endure. Trust me.

 

About all you can do to a 22r without spending a ton of $$ is swap a20r head on for more compression. And lets make this a fair fight. The 20r is actualy a 2.2 liter, and the 22r is a 2.4. You cant compare that to an L18. A 22re is an injected motor, so its worthy opponant would be a KA24.

 

Are you desert racing? prerunning? or cruising the dunes? The answer to bigger tires is lower gears,

 

To do a swap like that you would also have to do the trans, and possibly the T case and driveshafts. And we all know the Toyota diffs are stronger and gears/ lockers are laying around like rocks for them. So why not just put the 620 cab and box on a Toyota chassis and call it done?

 

Show me a man who wants to put a Toyota motor in a Datsun, and I'll show you a man who hasn't tried to kill an L20b.

[elmerfudpucker]

revived a 2 year old thread...I wonder if the truck is even alive...

[EricJB]

Just noticed that myself.

[TFM1066]

The 20/22r head does not lend itself to cheap HP, the 20/22r share the same crank and rods, so stroking the motor cost big dollars.
The datsun/Nissan L head make big HP with very little cost, many differrent stroke and rod combos.
Many pepole think that the fact the toyotas have a crossflow head that makes it better then the Datsun, trust me the exhaust doesnt really care.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

and i was hoping that if someone had i could get some insight on the swap

 

I like the idea. If rock crawling is your thing, then the Datsun driveline leaves a lot to be desired. Toyotas, on the other hand, have a HUGE aftermarket for transfer case doublers and gears, transmission adapters, etc.

 

I know you can stuff a NP205 behind the Datsun trans, but first of all they weigh a ton, and secondly, you need to find a divorced NP205, then you still only have one t-case, with stock gears.

 

Go Toyota!!!

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Show me a man who wants to put a Toyota motor in a Datsun, and I'll show you a man who hasn't tried to kill an L20b.

 

If it's going to be a crawler, then HP is not always the main concern. It looks like the OP had other-than-crawling in mind, but some posts here have mentioned "wheeling" as the intended use for their rig. I don't know what it's like where most of you wheel., but here in NorCal, rocks are about it. If you have a high RPM, high HP motor, it takes a gentle right foot to not blow up ring and pinions, axles, u-joints, etc. So gearing is the ticket...and I don't mean just in the axles.

[ssnapz]

if your worried about the motor crawling, run a chevy. id be worried about drive train, thats what brakes on the trail, and to big to carry spares. and coil? if you cant make a yota coil work on a datsun, good luck. i would love to put a z24 in my crawler but im already half way through a 4.3 swap and dont want to gear it.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You have to work backwards from tire size. If you have 40" tires, you don't need to crawl, but if you have a heavy right foot, your Toyota R&P's aren't going to last long with 40's. So that's why gearing is important. Now to be sure we understand each other, we are talking about light duty stuff. Obvoiusly Dana 60's with 35 spline axles and 1410 u-joints can definitely hang with stock gearing and more HP.

 

Where do you want your weakest link to be?

 

It's funny. Most Ratsun guys don't give a shit about crawlers... I love both crawling and racing. Why can't we all just get along.

[converted_to_datsun]

I ust to be a Toyota guy too and I loved the 22r motor and it never let me down. If you're only worried about a strange motor the L20b is really pretty simple and doesn't take allot to become a fan of that motor. They are easy to work on and cheap to buy parts for. In allot of ways the L20b is like 22r except on an L20b a webber is an upgrade and on a yota allot of guys prefer the stock carb. I say put whatever motor in you want but if you do get an L20b you won't be sorry.

 

Side note I had 2 22r yota trucks. One with 265k and the other with 275k and there was no stopping those things. Both ran perfect when I sold them and would have gone forever

[poor-mans-720]

more revival... I just did a 22r swap into my 720 4x4. For simple reasons. Its a wheeler, motor was $200 with a weber and cam. Top rebuild my 310,000 mile motor?? talking alot of money...  took me 4 days, and it does awesome. I did it for the other reason. Aftermarket support. I already have a doubler transfer case, and 4.88 gears on order... This thing will be bullet proof in a little bit, 6 shooter hubs, and longfields. Itll be awesome.

[Boxcar]

We will have to get together and end this discussion. Say Browns camp in August.

 By then the second in my Datsun powered fleet should be ready to wheel.

 Rig #1

88.5 Samurai -L-20B ( not stock ) , Drop pan 4 speed , 140 doubler , Zuke T-case, and a long list of other parts. But stock tins.

 

 

 

 

 

Rig #2

1975 620 / L-20 B ( fairly stock ) drop pan 4 speed, Divorced Terra low twin stick NAPCO Dana 20, Dana 44's front and rear, Locked and geared. And a long list of other parts. But somewhat stock tins.

 

 

 

While the Yota motors are durable. I'd never opt for one in a Datsun , or a Zuke for that matter. I can make better hp using an L-20B.

 Better gearing using a Volvo 140 Trans as a trans doubler ( try 4 low ranges ) 32 forward gears and a 100-1 crawl. with a Samurai divorced T-case.

 And still shorter than the stock Yota trans / t-case set up. And much lighter. As to available parts..... I've never had to search hard for parts in 35 years .

By the way. Good luck with those Long fields. He's dead. And from what I have herd he didn't share his knowledge with his crew.....

 

To be fair I do this for a living and have for 35 odd years.

 Sorry for the response to an old thread . I'm far from a purest. But I'm also far from a Yota fan as well..... Couldn't resist.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Bobby Long died? When?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The main reason I would think obvious for swapping in a 22RE is EFI.

 

I want EFI in my crawlers.

[Boxcar]

Then go with a Nissan EFI of you're choice.......

My self: I believe in the KISS method. If I cant repair it on the trail with basic tools , I don't need it on the rig...... Just me and my HOP.

[SCToy]

Since I don't know shit about datsun motors, but I am very well versed in yotas, I figured I would give me opinion of the 22R/RE. I've had both the 22RE and currently I DD a 22R.

They are incredibly durable, I rev the piss out of my 81 pickup every day. Running 4.88s with 35s. It takes me up a 2k foot hill every day and never complains, its over 30 years old and still passes smog. Who knows how many times the odometer rolled over, but at a minimum its 191k miles and still kicking. That said, it's an extremely primitive engine. You can sink a whole lot of money into it and it still doesn't come close to making a satisfying amount of power. I love my 22R, but when it does finally die, I will not be fixing it, I will modernize with 3RZ-FE.

The toyota drivetrain is a great platform for lightweight wheeling rigs, with unparalleled options and aftermarket support, but do yourself a favor and don't put a bunch of time and money into a 22R.

 

I know he originally mentioned getting a 22r for free, but if you're seriously considering putting a toyota 4 cylinder in, then look at the 3RZ-FE or 2RZ-FE, both make a lot more HP and Torque and if you're going through all the trouble of wiring in a motor from scratch, you may as well make it worth your time.

You can mess around all day with a 22R and sink thousands in custom machining, but it still will be out performed by a stock 3RZ-FE which costs a whole lot less.

So, the real question is do you want access to the toyota aftermarket support on t-cases, lockers, chromoly axles etc... because that's the real benefit to a yota. If so, then start with a 3RZ-FE, the only reason to use a 22R is because its already in the damn truck and its not dead yet.

Just my .02 on the 22R.

Just because everyone loves pictures.

I used to be a 22RE fanatic, I would have never considered running anything else, but once I got that E36 in the background, I realized there are a lot better engines out there.

[Macfly]

So is it possible to swap a 72 datsun600 motor out for a 22r?

 

Also is it possible to do a face lift, maybe slap a 76 front fenders hood and all?

 

Lastly looking to convert the front drum brakes to disc

 

Any advice or info would be appreciated

[datzenmike]

Anythings possible with a blue tipped or wire feed wrench.

 

You will need the Toy transmission and I doubt the driveshaft will fit or the oil pan. Is the 22R cross flow head?.. you'll need to address the throttle cable, exhaust down pipe connection, thw 620 torsion bars, engine mounts and radiator.

 

There are conversion kits sold on Ratsun, or there were, but nothing converts or bolts on without it.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The only reason I would ever want a 22RE or 22R in a Datsun is if it were going to be built as a 4x4, and you wanted all the transmission and t-case options that are available for Toyotas.

 

A single cam KA24 would be less work than a 22RE to install, and is a better motor.

 

Aren't all 620 body panels the same throughout the production years?

 

Search disc brake conversion and you'll come up with many results.

[scooter]

7 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

and you wanted all the transmission and t-case options that are available for Toyotas.

 

THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[datzenmike]

18 hours ago, Macfly said:

 

Also is it possible to do a face lift, maybe slap a 76 front fenders hood and all?

 

 

 

All doors, fenders and hoods are the same although earlier doors to mid 70s???? usead a clip along the top of the door card to hold it in place while later ones used those push in plastic buttons.