gokiburix Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 Looks good! ;) It's funny, because I did the exact same to my dime... NICE! I kinda want the visor, but I'll be pushing my racks back a bit since I have more roof real-estate, so a visor with the racks pushed back might look funny :blink: hmmm~ Quote Link to comment
Stfwells Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 Yeah...it might look okay!? If you were closer, I'd let you try mine on to check. Are you using the 58" cross-bars? That's what I had, then cut about 8" off. Quote Link to comment
gokiburix Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 yah...i think they're 58"...but I plan to cut some off...they stick out way too much hahaha Quote Link to comment
Stfwells Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 yah...i think they're 58"...but I plan to cut some off...they stick out way too much hahaha Yeah...it would suck to knock the shit out of your cranium while getting in or out of your dime. :lol: Quote Link to comment
gokiburix Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 Yeah...it would suck to knock the shit out of your cranium while getting in or out of your dime. :lol: :crying: did that a few times already :no: Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 Roof rack for my bikes My bikes fit in my goon upright if I take the front wheel and seat off. Fold down the rear seat of course. Quote Link to comment
wat Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 I got about halfway on a head gasket change before I ran into a lack of parts issue and wrapped up early. I had oil leaking out between cyl 3 and 4 on the passenger side. Oil on cyl 3 plug. Did a compression test and got 156-166 PSI with 166PSI coming out the 3rd cylinder. thought that was odd, ripped off the head and found that the head gasket that the previous owner installed had cocked to the side a bit as the block has no dowel pins to hold it in place. Timing guides are eaten up pretty good, and I can't find parts stores to buy one so I have to wait on that before I finish it. Also, need to wait for the machine shop to open up so I can get some new dowel pins in it. I don't want the head gasket shifting out of place later on down the road. Quote Link to comment
BayArea510 Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Today I got new tune chips for my ECU. The chips will correct fuel, air flow and timing for my SR20DE T28R, this is for the most recent changes to bigger turbo, bigger Maxima mass airflow sensor N60 , lower compression 8.5:1 to run pump gas, and Purple 370cc injectors. Quote Link to comment
reynolds_brad Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Out with the old, in with the new. Quote Link to comment
bigjoe619 Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 i drove mine to work the last 2 days... i havent drove it in months.. i had another car without a motor blocking it in... Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 Today, I sat in a chair, smoked a cigarette and stared down my L20B to make it my bitch. Soon, it'll be replaced with a KA24DE, so for the time being, being my bitch and all, it will have to last me. So far, so good. After I decided that the L20B wasn't going to talk back, I went on the inside and made the heater control switch/cable assembly my bitch. It is now a perfectly functioning. The stupid cable for the floor vent broke off at it's odd 90/90/180 degree bend, so I simply removed the broken piece, took up the slack, stuck it in the hole and bent it back so it can't fall out. Works like a charm. Why this wasn't done from the factory, I'll never know. Cleaned up my door switches, as on occasion the dome light wouldn't kick on. They work fine now. All corroded and such... I wonder if there's a better aftermarket solution out there somewhere? I see that they are just ground switches, but the driver's side has this double-contact assembly on the back for some reason. Two wire, the passenger side is a single wire. Is this normal?? Greased up my obnoxious clutch pedal pivot. Bahhhhvtakbaaa *sqeeeeeeak* bahhhhhhhhh. No more squeaky, but I lost 13 horsepower due to vtak squeak. I guess all that's left is bypassing my heater so I don't fill my floorpan with antifreeze and get the heater fixed some time before this fall. On a different note... anybody ever had an issue with their turn signals being about half as bright as their hazard lights? If I have the hazards on, the lights are like 3x brighter than my turn signals are. I cleaned the T/S switch, getting the same voltage through the hazards as I am the turn signals...at the switches. Could it be time for a new flasher unit? I am unsure how all that gremlin ridden electronic crap works when it comes to that flasher. I have a stock'er in there still. Electronic one maybe? I dunno. /end rambling Quote Link to comment
Shagy Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 could the door pin switch having two wires be for a key in reminder? Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Picked up a quikor sway bar for front sump pans from datsunfreak Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Installed a front main seal on the sr and started to clean the alternator. Oh i also ordered some m6 x 1.0 x16mm stainless bolts and washers for the water pump pulley. Quote Link to comment
fuzz's '71 510 Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Took apart my heater core, it was a mess but gonna get it re-cored and cleaned up. Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 I like adding all kinds of gauges, but I've had a challenge with available dash real estate - there's just not enough practical space to install a bunch of gauges. A while back, I picked up a set of 280z gauges (volt/fuel) (temp/oil), which I really liked specifically because of combined readings. I've begun work on getting them installed onto a skeleton of a 510 dash: Mock-up #1 (that's also a 280z speedometer) Mock-up #2 (includes sunpro tach and O2 sensor) In the car Partially functioning gauges (need to throw in a dash voltage regulator) I'm handy with sheet metal, and I'm beginning to learn to play with fiberglass and bondo, so this will look more "finished" as I progress. I may install additional gauges (vacuum, fuel pressure, etc., etc.) just because I like to micromanage all the processes in my car, so I can't do the finishing work until all that gets settled. Quote Link to comment
510spaz Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 put a webber 38/38 on the L20, and converted over to cable throttle. :) Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 I told my dimes I missed driving them =/ Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 I cut my lokar cable and test fit it. Still gotta perfect the connection to the pedal. Quote Link to comment
510spaz Posted July 1, 2011 Report Share Posted July 1, 2011 I cut my lokar cable and test fit it. Still gotta perfect the connection to the pedal. I did the lokar kit also. What I did at the pedal was welded a 1 inch square piece of metel at the top, and drilled a hole in it, then bolted th es cable to it. That way I could keep the ball on it, just in case I wanted to switch back to the old setup! Works GREAT. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted July 1, 2011 Report Share Posted July 1, 2011 I did the lokar kit also. What I did at the pedal was welded a 1 inch square piece of metel at the top, and drilled a hole in it, then bolted th es cable to it. That way I could keep the ball on it, just in case I wanted to switch back to the old setup! Works GREAT. Ah, I already drilled out the ball... All my stock linkage is incomplete. I'm going to use a 1 inch or so 4-6mm bolt + 3 nuts to center the cable end for the stock linkage hole in the firewall. Should work fine, I also perfected the modded stock linkage for the cable mount. I'll post some pics when the setup is done, should be pretty clean. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted July 1, 2011 Report Share Posted July 1, 2011 shaving rears Rust fixing Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 Working on the fuel system and getting ready to start wiring. Quote Link to comment
H5WAGON Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 Moved mounting spot for the license plate. New spot will have a light...;) Even though I have had cops follow me with no problems so far. I had this bracket laying around for a few years wondered what to use it on. The PO mounted the plate on a long hinge, riveted to the bumper mount.....it would swing in the wind.:P Also playing around with the idea of using a 510 lic plate light.......the holes on that plastic mount matched up perfect with the holes in the bumper. :D Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 ha! I love that hinge-mounted licence plate. The idea of it flapping around makes me happy. I actually have mine tied to the bumper w/ coat-hanger wire, so it not only flaps, but it also slides left to right over time. That bracket you've got it probably a better option, but not nearly as fun. Quote Link to comment
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