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jovial_cynic

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Everything posted by jovial_cynic

  1. Ooook. New plugs in. I'm beginning to think I don't have ping. Based on YouTube videos and SR forums, I think I'm either dealing with a rod bearing issue or chain tensioner issue. Looks like the price for bearings is about the same price as the price of the chain tensioner, but as the bearings are a bit more mission critical, I'll go that route first. Also, my engine roars at 3k rpms. Like, ridiculous. Not sure what's up there. It seems to quiet up a bit once I get higher in rpms, but it's... disconcerting.
  2. Next thing to test is new spark plugs. I really can't think if any other reason why I'm getting any ping. Gas is good, timing is good, running stock boost while testing, and I've sea-foamed it. Aside from spark plugs or some unnoticed bad spot in the head, I really can't think of anything else.
  3. Oh, also, Octane 92, not 91. I forgot I'm not in California anymore, and we have better gas up here in Washington.
  4. Wideband sensor says I'm running rich most of the time. At idle, it's hovering around 12:1 or 13:1, and I never see it go above that. When I push it hard, it gets down to 11:1 to 10:1, etc. Also, I'm running it with the timing retarded enough to cause it to backfire every now and then... It's weird. Very weird.
  5. Alrighty! I have a new knock sensor on the way, but bypassing the knock sensor with a 560-kohm resistor and adjusting the timing back to about 13 degrees makes it a little slower, but presumably safe. Still fast. I've noticed that at 15 degrees, it pings a bit, but mostly it pings when just barely off idle. Once the RPMs pick up, the pinging stops. OR, it's possible that it's still pinging like mad and the engine is just too loud to hear it. Even on 91 octane. It's odd. I went ahead and SeaFoam'd the engine to break up carbon deposits, and I'll re-gap the spark plugs to make sure everything is within spec there. It's odd that it pings at 15 degrees, though. In any event, down at 13, no discernible pinging. Vroom vroom.
  6. Brakes properly bled, good to go! (Good to stop?)
  7. Went to read the codes on the SR20DET ECU, and somebody stripped out the potentiometer dial! Fortunately, I'm an electronics nerd and I had a spare trim pot that I soldered in. Good to go! (Code = all clear)
  8. I think I have an erratic/bad knock sensor. I've noticed that when I advance my timing forward of 15 degrees, I get some pinging, even though I'm running 91 octane. Not great, so then I backed down the timing to something closer to 13 degrees. No more pinging, but also, it seems like my knock sensor is pulling timing so much that I can barely accelerate. Let's say that my knock sensor is working correctly. Under what circumstances would my engine knock as a result of retarding the timing? Is that even a thing? Yes, I know I can bypass the sensor. That seems like a dumb idea. But I also don't want to bypass if my sensor is actually detecting something that's happening. Ideas?
  9. I fitted in the roll cage, but it looks like the rear seat won't fit with it in there. So... I guess I have a rear bench seat in mostly good shape going up for sale. Also, I have a 5-point harness installed, but it's not great with the old Sentra seats. Time to get a better seat.
  10. I've bled them a few times... and now that I think about it, each time I've done it, there have been more bubbles here and there. I probably have a little bit of air inside each of the calipers; they were bone dry when I installed them.
  11. Aha. I've never heard of such a thing until now. Thanks!
  12. Agreed. I'm keeping at 11psi until I get some other upgrade bits installed. I just wanted to see what would happen. 😉 What *happened* is that my butt came up off the seat going over a hill, and it was very exciting.
  13. Is there any solution for power assist brakes with you have the SR20DET turbo in the way? I've got the bigger MC and big brakes up front and discs in the back. I'd love a booster, but I can't figure out how to fit a booster anywhere. Ideas?
  14. Yup. Wideband O2 in place. Aside from MBC, no other mods done, aside from all the home-fabricated intake plumbing. And FMIC added.
  15. I think I found the boost! Man, an SR is unintuitive to tune if you don't read the step-by-step instructions first.. Having to juggle between the TPS and the idle, back and forth, until they agree with each other, and then dealing with the ECU, which is making adjustments of its own... it takes a while to nail it down! Anyhow, I threw on a boost controller and ran it up to 14, and it is... scary. I mean, correctly tuned, 7psi is scary, too. But at 14psi, I was FLYING. So before I drive it too crazy and hurt myself, I think I need to sort out the brakes. I may still have a little air in the lines; after I pump it a few times, it grabs faster, and I think I now recall something about the brakes just needing to be push harder than you expect, but it does grab just fine. Once the air is out, I'll test a hard stop with it until I get a sense of how it's going to behave. Going back and forth between my press-real-hard brakes on the 510 and my super-twitchy-power-brakes on the newer car is going to be fun.
  16. Got out and DROVE it. Hard. I need to take it to a dyno shop and see what it's really doing. Stock SR20DET is supposed to be ~200hp in stock form, but it doesn't really feel like it's that fast. I have a MBC that I plan to throw on it, and that'll give me the boost pressure readout as well. I'll keep tweaking it until I see some improvements. It'll be interesting to know exactly how much boost I'm playing with right now. If i recall correctly, there's some boost pressure solenoid that the engine originally had, and without it, there may be a limit to available boost, so that may be impacting things if that's the case. In the meanwhile, it turned out that I had the timing a bit too far advanced, so I backed it down a bit and it quit pinging on me. Also for anybody that's done the 280zx/Maxima brake upgrade and discs in the back, is it supposed to brake like a new car? Like... on a dime? Because it doesn't feel super grabby, either. I'm a little underwhelmed by the brakes at the moment.
  17. Got the exhaust mostly buttoned up. i still have an exhaust leak somewhere, as I have rich exhaust fumes pouring into the cabin when I'm pushing the engine hard. It's coming up through the transmission tunnel... which needs to also be sealed up. But at least with it open, I can tell that there's an exhaust leak. Next up is trying to decide if I want to get the auxiliary idle valve installed, or if I want to just deal with feathering the idle until it warms up each time.
  18. I began the process of re-routing some of my exhaust. It hangs pretty low as it has to jump over the janky transmission crossmember I made a while back. So... I'll probably have to fabricate something for that as well...
  19. I settled in on an LDPerformance boost controller for my turbo. $160 for a fully controllable boost solenoid, with built-in pressure sensor, and ability to modulate the boost on the fly w/ gear or tach signal, or run a set-and-forget boost setting, AND be able to toggle between the two options? Yeah. It's everything I would have designed myself if I felt like taking the time to program it all.
  20. Looks like I may have figured it out! I got it the sway bar installed. Pics to come soon.
  21. I'm about to install the futofab front-sump sway bar on my 510. Because I'll have to re-modify my crossmember to make it fit, I'd like to see how it's supposed to sit in there so I can get a better of sense of where to cut/weld. I checked the futofab site and saw the pictures on there, but I'd like a few more visuals if possible. Thanks in advance!
  22. Ok. Brakes sorted. A combination of "needs to be bled a bit more" and "not enough slack in the MC rod/pedal" creates a very strange driving experience. I finally got around to converting my HKS clone blowoff valve from vent-to-atmo to recirculate, so no more stumbling and idling out when I stop after hard boost. What a HUGE difference that makes. Also, I previously had my electric radiator fan come on at a particular temperature, but when I swapped radiators, I had to give up the thermo-switch that triggered the fan relay. So... I drove around wondering why my engine temp wouldn't go down. I may have to get something figured out there.
  23. Nope. No booster. I'm not sure there's room with the top mount turbo SR, though... Any other solutions?
  24. Aaarg. My brakes are still giving me issues, doing one of two things: 1. "Doesn't stop very quickly, but nice hard pedal feel. Just not gripping well." 2. "Pedal seems very stiff, and the brakes aren't releasing all the way!"
  25. I cleared out room in the garage and squeezed the 510 in there. Very tight fit. But, I got quite a bit of work done. I pulled the exhaust manifold and set it on a bench belt sander (50 grit) for about 20 minutes and got it smoothed out. It took forever to get it all back together (I did have to unbolt the driver-side mount and lift the engine several inches), but I got it done and put back together. Now, the only exhaust leaks are down under the car, post turbo... In other news, I have a new issue w/ the brakes. I went 4-wheel disc, and now the brakes seem to operate in two modes: 1. "Doesn't stop very quickly, but nice hard pedal feel. Just not gripping well." 2. Pedal seems very stiff, and the brakes aren't releasing all the way! So... that's annoying. But at least today was an incredibly beautiful day to work on the car!
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