exit64

Clean su set up, Jun. I have tried the MMO in my pots before. I thought that it was too thin. Made the throttle response very on and off feeling. When you go to set these up for the first time use the caliper method described on 311s. It works great as a starting point but you will still have to fine tune from there. I also was having a lean spot show up halfway through the range so I put a pair of ADQ needles in. Problem solved. The British needles fit our carbs and have so many profiles available you can always find a needle that will fit your motor's needs. One other thing you need to do is make sure your timing is spot on before you take off the old carb. So many times it is an ignition problem that is causing grief but it gets misdiagnosed as carbs, and it will drive you crazy.

Use ATF in the dash pots. It works better than motor oil and stays more even through out the temp range. There is a very good SU section in the tech wiki at www.311s.org by Keith O. Read it and be enlightened.

Get over to 311s.org and fire away. If you can't find it there.....

BTW, if you are trying to do this on the cheap, go over to 311s.org and look up the supplier for forklift motor parts. They are out of Kentucky and H20 parts are cheap. Stay away from a U20 motor unless you have more money than you know what to do with. You are looking at $1100 for a complete timing set for that motor. Not really in the Ratsun price range. :o

I've got a set of R16 pistons and conrods that you can have for the price of shipping. Left over from my donor motor from my stroker build. They are either std. or .020 over, I can't remember which. I know that Rory has an H20 sitting in his garage that he is tired of tripping over but it will cost to send it down to Cali unless I can find someone heading to Baja from here that is willing to drop it off along the way. It is pretty late in the season for that though as most kiters split out of here in November. PM me you address if you want those pistons and I will send you my Paypal info. Mike aka exit64

Rory, I've got the Weber Bible that shows different setups. Should be able to get it close and then fine tune from there.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/27729-510s-parts-to-upcoming-la-swapmeet/

510keeper has a set of coilovers in the Parts For Sale section for $300.

Big deal, I sleep with a fully loaded girlfriend on the pillow next to me.

Alrighty then nerds, here you go. My buddy built a track in basement last winter and we have a regular series going out here in HR. We do dollar buy in on the first race, 2 bucks on the second and 3 on the third race. Computer scoring with 4 lanes going at once. The PBR's flow like water and everyone has a great time. Usually have at least 12 -15 people show up so there is a bit of cash on the table by the second and third race. Keeps me in tires and shoes. :lol: Everyone has to run the same chasis and tires so that it is fair. I will post some pics of the track later if anyone is interested. Here is a place to get vintage bodies. http://www.scaleauto.com/bodies/sa.htm

So that was a Monkey Cam?

I am a builder. All materials come from the USA or Canada, aye. Cabinets are either made in Spokane by Huntwood or in my buddies shop. All hardwood flooring comes from the USA. All the framing material comes from local mill along with all the plywood. I make sure the sheetrock is made here also. You get that shit from China and you are going to have all kinds of issues down the road. I have flat out refused to work on houses when the owner starts to get butt pucker over a few dollars. If you can't afford it, don't do it. The USA as a whole has a Walmart mentality. There's a reason my daily work truck is a 1983 Toyota 4x4. It cost me less to run a year in repairs than 2 months of new truck payments. It's a rolling toolbox and if it gets dinged, big deal. We need to tariff the shit out of stuff until we get the balance back in trade, suck it up and tighten our belts. If I ran my business the same way the elected officials run our country I would have been working for someone else years ago. I'm just glad my German farmer granddad isn't around to see this mess. He would of had a fit. Support your local shops of all kinds or they will be gone. Americans are becoming less capable every year. What is happening to "Yankee ingenuity"? I know grown men who don't even own a tool box. You might as well wear a dress and change your name to Nancy. Right now there are more kids in China learning english as a language than the entire population of the United States. Think about that one next time you are in Wally world about to buy some useless piece of crap. Oh yea and you might want to start learning Chinese.

Nothing says "pissed off" like a front wheel drive burnout. :lol:

Hey Skib, Get a hold of Rory. If you don't have his number, PM me and I will text it to you. Thanks, Mike aka exit64

Rustina, So do you have specific question about setting these up or just about polishing? After years of messing with Roadsters and SU carbs my advice to you is this. At the very least, spend the money on having Ztherapy put the bearing throttle shafts in the body. If you can afford it, let Steve do the whole job of the rebuild. The two things I always do to the Roadsters for the best driveability is Z therapy carbs and an EI Dizzy. If you can't afford the bearing job then PM me and I can put you in touch with Dan Garrison who can rebush the original throttle shafts. If you have any leaks on the shafts throughout the range you are pissing up a rope. You will get it to run pretty good but never perfect. Go over to the techwiki on www.311s.org and read the SU section. I use the micrometer method to get my starting point and then tune from there. I run ATF in my dash pots as it stays pretty much the same in all temp ranges. I prefer to use a synchrometer over a unisynch as it has a readable scale instead of just a floating ball. They are about $30 on Ebay all day long. The VW guys use them a lot for the downdraft setups that they run. Post some pic of the polishing job and good luck. Mike aka exit64

I use a muslin wheel mounted on my drill press. Use Mother's Aluminum Polish and you will be happy with the results. You can get a cheap polishing kit at harbor freight to get started with if you don't have anything. Google how to polish aluminum and follow the directions as it is different than doing stainless as to what compounds to use. Red Rouge will never give you a mirror finish, use tripoli. I have used a dremel and wheel on Mikunis and have gotten very good results. It's a sickness. Once you start it is really hard to stop. :lol:

I'd be down for one of these even though I don't own a 510. <_<

Which one of you Cali boys needs one? Here you go. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/2108382311.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/One-Kind-6x6-Crew-Cab-/250735781471?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a6104665f

Get a west coast car. We don't salt the roads out here so rust is not as much of a problem. You will more than make up for the shipping in the money saved on rust repair.

Where's the love here from the Portland crew. Load up the Dime wagon with a few guys, act like you are going to buy some stuff from this ass clown and then make him cough up the dizzy. Someone in the area has to know this jackoff. How hard could it be? You pull this shit out here in Hood River and we just take you up to Post Canyon and tie you to a tree.

True Ratsun style would dictate that none of your wheel size match anyway, so I see no reason for someone not to snatch these up.

You now have a $130 anchor for your lake run-a-bout. There is a reason the MG guys buy the Datsun trannys. :lol:

Was Rutroe's truck sporting a Ratsun sticker? He needs one for the 280zx, but I'm guessing that episode is already in the can. I always like his Nascar bits on Speed.

Probably a touch more. If you want a "lighter" pad go with the gray ones from 3M. I cut these into 5" rounds and use them on my Bosch random orbital for all sorts of stuff. They hold onto the hook and loop pad great. For auto work I also change over to a soft pad on the sander. If you are in the market for an electric random o, don't even think about anything other than the Bosch stuff. More aggressive and last about twice as long as a DeWalt. Don't buy the cheapest one but step up a notch to this one. http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-3725DEVS-5-Inch-Variable-Canister/dp/B00008NFDM/ref=sr_1_81?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1290619270&sr=1-81 It takes me about two years to wear this out to the point that it needs a rebuild. Great tool for the money.