Stupid_fast

@Will, Those at Oakland !! I'll check those ZX's out... cool ! A turbo with t-tops !!?!??! I'm going to pull so much stuff.

:ninja:

Wrong thread bro. This is the SF fun run, the other one is the bay area fun run. Different runs !! lolol.

Someone already tried it, and posted pics, the VH45 is wider than the 510's strut towers. isnt the VK56 bigger? http://community.ratsun.net/topic/14993-just-fooling-around-vh45de-in-the-engine-bay/ http://community.ratsun.net/topic/29434-510-vh45de-swap/ http://community.ratsun.net/topic/31786-vk45de-210/

I AINT UPDATE DIS HSIT ENOUGH. Working on my 510 like usual, getting like nothing done, screwing around with the carb tune. Bam. 9:30pm, steering mistake, went wide, rear right hit dirt, oversteer, countersteer, back wheel his storm drain, catch air, lands where you see it pictured. Entered corner at about 30mph, about where you see the tire marks in the dirt. Basicly trying to take the corner perfectly without cutting the inside. F*. Hella..... flush ??? That aint stretched last time I checked... Oh... Okay then. I guess I just, didn't have the bead. Worst of the damage landed on the fuel tank. Somehow I missed the body work, only damage on the quarter panel as shown... Pulled the axle/diff apart thinking I'd broken something, only to find everything in fine shape. Leaf spring bolt has seen better days. The cover won't stay on, whatever, sitting waiting for gas tank ( picking up tomorrow ) and waiting for my 4.375 center to be back from modification. I bought a new set of Konigs last weekend AAAnd so I've been working on this... and I got it running again finished up some wiring and started dialing in the ECCS junk. its cutting a bit on throttle, but at light throttle it torques fine enough to make it up hills and drive around reasonably. It made power in boost once with some fiddling with the wiring, something definitely is not happy. It cuts like its severely retarded and starts popping crazy out the exhaust most of the time when I get on it. Turbo seems to spool fine, cooling system working just fine. Maybe doesn't help that some wires are still not soldered, and that the ECU is at my feet laying on the floor. This is with a coil cut off the springs .... Rides so good with all the suspension and steering work!!! Seriously, why the hell is my NA so high ??? Thats all folks, more updates when I get the parts back and get the goon bolted back together. Oh and, haters gonna hate. osnap 9993 views.... its over NINE THOUSSAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA- ect.

A built KA would be just fine. If you want a big V8, you're looking at the wrong chassis for one. I'm with this guy. :hairy: Civics are cool, the motors gain power by just adding stickers.

remove the old one first. :poke: I fit it up and tapped it in with a hammer and peice of wood or a socket or something ... went in fine.

What gen maxi? if you've got 81-84 1st gen maxi/ 2nd gen 810 its same basic suspension platform as 280zx. Use S13 coilovers. Search for S13 coilovers on 280zx. Cutting and welding requried for front, rears basically bolt on. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94002-how-to-install-s13-coilovers-on-280zx-and-poly-bushings/ http://280zxproject.blogspot.com/2012/10/280zx-s13-coilover-install.html#! http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4346&hilit=240sx+coilovers OR you can use the other coilover method, using sleeves and welding perch or split collars onto stock struts ... depends on what you're going for. If you just want low, split collars and stock springs work just fine.

I was just in my garage cleaning things up, eyeraping my 280zx and then I come in this thread and see that.... HNNNNNNGGGG so much want... That fitment is perfect.

Final drive gearing comparisons you should take into account transmission gearing. For instance I have a close ratio/ tall late model ZX gearbox, 3.062 1st gear and 0.745 5th gear ... so a 3.89 final ratio is a bit tall for my cammed motor, spinning only 3000rpm at 70 and off the line is a bit sluggish. I'm going to swap a 4.38. I find myself cruising at 75-80 to keep the motor in a better power range due to my cam profile. if you have a super low 1st gear like a 3.6, then yeah a 4.11 or 3.89 would be OK off the line for your smaller engine, but also have to consider power output at cruising speed.

fiero rad catch bottle, I use soda bottle attached to fuel line with hose clamps. Only fills when it overheats, and my car never overheats...

30 min ? ?? I usually run mine for like 5 min... lol! You open the cap on a hot motor ?? That should spray boiling coolant everywhere... Pressure problem in your cooling system ????

So much want.. I love it !! That things going to be awesome when its finished !

Be noted, the early and late model ZX box are slightly different. The shifter 'ears' on the late box are taller by about 1 inch. I can measure if you want, I have both boxes. I'm really interested in the challenge of making a short shifter for these gearboxes, I've seen inside the tail housing and its not easy to shorten the side-side throw. Your stuff looks awesome, I'd but it without a second thought if I could afford it !!

A Yamaha Tech!? Cool ! Am I on the right track suspecting the needle jets(aka emulsion jets tubes whatever wrong name people call them) are causing my low end rich problem? Drilling the slides? Any baseline to start at? What effect does this have on AFR ? leaning or enriching ? curious about this. Seems like it would lean the slide a bit? Seems it would lean the low end were the slides aren't fully open?

:sneaky:

The B series transmission is a challenging one to make a short throw for, as the left right motion throw is static inside the tail housing. I look forward to see how you're going to make something work.

You won't believe how simple it is to bleed! I had overheating issues for months before I figured out how to bleed the rad! Simple! Cold or cool motor, remove the radiator cap, with the cap off warm up to operating temperature or around where my autometer gauge reads 100-120 ish, put the cap back on. Your system is now bleed'd.

@VintageRice, Or maybe you just have so much tq with the KA that you don't need to have your tune perfect !!!!! Mine is a gutless napping monster in the low end, and a 7000rpm banshee at the top!

I have them, with the needle bearing top hats, they're as good as any camber plates.

If I do that, its completely undrivable under 3000rpm. It would make absolutely no power. Its NOT a needle problem, this is a problem with a different circuit I'm almost sure of it. AFR's already around 10:1 part throttle in that range ... I'm looking into some books but I really need to find a source for how to dial in these carbs ... edit, I think it may be the 'needle jet' but I cannot find one for sale anywhere ! ! Anyone got an idea? Ordered new needle jets, $80 ... edit, Protip: if your carbs arent synced perfectly and are lean popping at cruise still, remove your filter until you fix it. I just blew a hole in my pipercross because the #4 carb was 1/2 turn too lean on the idle mix.

So I dropped the float height by 2mm, from 7mm to 9mm. The top end part throttle went more lean, and the bottom end is the same sluggish rich !! I don't get it... wide open 4000-7000 is fine AFR's stay between 12 and 13, but part throttle its popping and lean, and at the bottom its so rich not making and power. Anyone got ideas on what to try next ?? I'm going to try raising the floats I think and see what effect that has.

Roadster or 620 frame would be a more simple solution to this.... as I mentioned a few pages back. Drop it on an alfa romeo subframe for all I care, just get an under-chassis and start playing with it.

We'll see if he joins Ratsun. I'll leave a note on his car every day until he does. :sneaky: edit. Is it a creeper thing to do to keep going back and taking pics of this car?? I was going to Starbucks, legitimate excuse I guess. Should I just keep taking pics of it until he shows up on ratsun?

See a few pages back, indy took pics of the same car and posted them in this thread.