Stupid_fast

Ah okay... The reasoning that my PCV is not stock is I have side drafts, so a bit different with pcv. Haven't put a fitting for it on the filter back plate. I've heard oil vapor is bad for combustion mix? I'm hooking up a baffled catch can so the motor doesn't dump oil vapor or oil into the intake. Also for racecar reasons.

My L20b has about 12k miles... If i push it really hard, 4-7k rpm for 30 minutes to an hour such as running a canyon it will start to seep oil from the breether. Stopped after a fun run and there was oil all over my engine bay !! Motor is definitely not blown. Did this before and after head gasket change. Catch can is needed if you drive very hard, or drive on track. Its just blowby gasses ... exhaust. If you don't re-route through the AFM/MAF it will exit in your engine bay and can cause exhaust fumes in the cabin. Better to recirculate it, but blowby should be minimum and not cause an idle problem. This is only as I understand it from my limited experience and research. If I got something wrong feel free to correct me.

Umad. Ratsun ... Day 1199 ... Still havn't been sighted.

Did you guys re-jet the carb after swapping the manifold? I've also heard claims of efficiency and performance with this manifold. It seems like a good design for a street motor, I'm wondering how well it would run with proper jetting.

81-83 ZX boxes are FS5W71B. According to Datzenmike the main/counter shafts do not interchange with the FS5W71C. If you're looking for a close ratio gearset, see OSgiken, and there are others I can't remember the names right now. NISMO gearset ?? I've never heard of anyone having one in 3 years messing with my datsun. They exist, but extremely rare and probably extremely expensive. The FS5W71C 240sx transmission is 1st 3.321, 2nd 1.902, 3rd 1.308, 4th 1.0, 5th 0.765 The FS5W71B 81-83 280zx transmission is 1st 3.062, 2nd 1.858, 3rd 1.308, 4th 1.0, 5th 0.745 Due to how close the two gearing specs are, there is really no point in going the trouble to have a weaker transmission. As far as 5-speeds go the 240sx box is a nicely setup box for pretty much any usage especially on a wide powerband KA. The only reason us Datsun nuts (at least, me ...) care about having the closer ratio ZX box VS the wider ratio (76-79) 280z box is because we're running under powered L series motors. My hopped up motor with a mild race cam is barely putting out similar power as a stock KA. If you're looking for performance gains, you're looking in the wrong area.

I did that once. I either had the clutch slipping and disengaging fully. Or the clutch engadged fully and always rubbing on disengagement. The throwout bearing was completely siezed when I removed it. The clutch teeth were shattered from being pushed in too far. Its a good thing you found it out now. :) Make sure to match the sleeve to the clutch plate, not the gearbox.

There should be ~2-3mm of play at the slave/fork lever. This is so the t/o bearing isn't always riding on the clutch when its engaged. There should also be an adjuster on it. Try loosening it up a bit.

Air doesn't come out if I go bleed it again right now. Heat ? Clutch arm linkage binding when transmission is warm ?! idk ... I put grease on everything there ...

Theres no more air in the system because I've bled it so many times. yes, when I replaced the components it was full of air of course. I bench bled the master and filled the slave with fluid before installation all of the air was bled out the first time I bled it. took about a liter of fluid through the system.

I'm pulling the gearbox in a few days. What should I do to the clutch mechanism while its out ??? Changed to generic DOT3 ... fluid still turning dark after a bit of driving. Same issue. Clutch works fine when I first bleed it and drive, come back and its sticky and hard to use as ever.

280zx has I believe 1-2" wider rear track than the 510 due to the trailing arm design. Miata 1990 rear track 56.2 inches ... 240sx S13 57.7 in ... From my searches. H190 wagon is 53 inches hub-hub (track width). Miata would require 1.5" flares with stock offset ... 240SX would require 2.5" flare for stock offset. or shorten everything. Is this correct ??? Everything I can find implies this is correct ... someone double check my results ?? Someone put a wagon on a rotisserie already and start fitting subframes. I don't have the garage for it!

280zx input shaft spline is the same as a 4 speed input spline. All L20b clutch setups will work. Use matching fork, throw-out bearing pressure plate, clutch disc, flywheel, and slave cylinder.

Ahhh I see what you're saying. My bad. Yeah, I haven't heard of a problem yet, even with the different loading. Its a good point to bring up, but I'm pretty sure as long as you have the correct pressure/float setting and bowl angle you should be fine.

Think about it this way, A sport bike is designed to run cornering leaned over at extreme angles and keep the mixture the same. Don't you think they'd be able to handle corners just as well, or better than a gravity style float bowl? My R1's run through a canyon all day and I never notice AFR changes in corners. These are vacuum feed CV carbs. You should never have an issue once they're tuned right. I am running the stock R1 BIKE electric fuel pump!! it quits pumping when the float bowls are full ... probably shuts of once pressure reaches a certain point. Works great.

Thats going to be slick on a 2.8! Did you consider combining the second set 3rd carb in to have two fuel inlets ? It may help on a 2.8. Depends on how much power you're putting down. I got one needle jet in ... its too lean for my setup but I'll post my results... For science! Anyone else have luck with aftermarket needles?

Okay so I keep forgetting to take pics, and I keep forgetting to update this thread. Ah well. After all the crashy crunchy parts I kinda threw everything back together. I picked up my welded up H190 center done by Rich at Daft Innovations, and threw in the 4.375 ring gear and carrier. IMAG1139 by pherexion, on Flickr IMAG1146 by pherexion, on Flickr So it turns out I guess I'm in a drift team now kinda. The day before the Historic J even Alex Datsun came out to work on his Z at my garage and we'd roll there together. Being the maiden voyage of his car beyond just some town trips around San Francisco there were some troubles with the Z. Fortunately he was able to roll out at about 1am ... A few hours before the show. After a long night of some basic mantainence, cleaning my car and Alex comic bombing the Z... We made it to the Historic J event! 9868743334_3d0db945b6_o by pherexion, on Flickr IMAG1192 by pherexion, on Flickr 9868782794_76da67d7c3_o by pherexion, on Flickr After historic J we went back to my house and crashed for a few hours having not slept the night before, after a good rest we headed out to meet with Thomas and his S14 to go to an 86 fest meet at the Toyota of Oakland. I didn't get any pics but I'm sure there are some around. Finally we all three headed back to San Francisco for some photoshoot and that ended the day. unfortunately the Z had a few issues ... but all that is covered over in his build thread!! Three of four cars, together, Team Feint Heart. The ruby S30 is not completed yet. IMAG1196 by pherexion, on Flickr Turns out I did bend something, the right stub axle hub was bent and wobbling pretty badly ... Lucky my neighbor with the goon has an axle so he said come swap the H190 setup from my 1200 onto my 510 wagon and its yours!! Sweet. Head out there for a few days of work and got both the wagons done. The 1200 has the axle pulled for a 4-link 8.8 setup! The Gooons... IMAG1249 by pherexion, on Flickr So after that there hasn't been much done ... some shenanigans and clutch kicks. I got the car back on the 195-50 tires and been driving around trying to fix out some bugs to get it ready for our skid pad event soon! With all the 510 drama the ZX has suffered no progress... 9868724986_6aa0902bc0_o by pherexion, on Flickr Latest update is the leaf spring setup, tried another combination that dropped it an inch. No wheel hop but the spring rate could be higher. Flipped add-a-leaf (supposed to raise 2"), main wagon leaf, main 720 truck leaf (cut bushing mounts and re-drilled center pin hole), 3rd flat truck leaf... Clamps and pinion angle shim. Cut bump stops 1". Slaps around more on big bumps, but overall a decent ride. Probably some due to the fact my right shock is blown. IMAG1361 by pherexion, on Flickr And that's how it sits as yesterday ... Waiting for another gearbox, drift spares, and its ready for the track. I have a few small accessories that I added as well I'll need to grab pictures of... IMAG1375 by pherexion, on Flickr And so I was able to get a bit done on the ZX as well. Pulled it out of the garage fired right up, took it around and fiddling with some EFI stuff I got it to stop cutting under boost. Doesn't make much power, but it runs and its smooth. Got it to the gas station for the first time in a long time. Ran great, I can't wait to get this thing legal and streetable. Driving it again has reminded me how wonderful these cars are as just touring cruisers ... Smooth easy fun ride even in its rough state. 9891297285_547a3e629a_o by pherexion, on Flickr edit. I made the pictures show up better. Oh ye and I super awesome'd my interior. IMAG1381 by pherexion, on Flickr

Z22E = D81. Has water passages inbetween the cylinders. Less room to bore.

WINNERRR!!! Swapping the springs left to right fixed the thrust angle. My wheels are traveling straight again !!!!! Thank you ! I can't tell you how happy it made me to actually successfully fix something on my wagon ! its been a while of things breaking. I also go it 1" lower in the process :) However, the 1/2" shimmy is still there :P

10:1 with them off, 12:1 with them on. Went out on a back road, did a pull with them off, stopped and put them back on, and did a pull over the same stretch several times. Yeah good stacks effect the velocity that much. the two screws at the mouth of the carburetor ... you can remove this peice and decrease the stack size like 1" ... I removed those and it made it even more rich. It was stumbling around 3000rpm WOT... that was While I was playing with the air bleed stuff. Thats probably why I'm running 190 jets to keep it rich ... 12.9:1 at 6000~6500rpm Going to pick up some jet needles right now to take measurements off of. Depending on my findings may be getting the needles to correct my low end issues.

I have the other one !!! Its for my friends wagon! I just got it today, too! So I was playing around with my carbs tonight trying to figure out what was causing the light throttle popping (lean pop out the carb ...), I tried blocking off various circuits(idle air bleed ...) and it made no difference, but I did find something interesting ... The 2" velocity stacks I have on raise the AFR by 2 points according to my wideband !! I tried with on, tried with off... sure enough 2 points more lean with the stacks on! Crazy I didn't know it effected the tune that much. Finally put new valve springs on ! My engine seems to be great around 6000rpm about 12.9:1 afr, then around 6700-7000 it starts choking out down to 11.5:1 ... 11:1 .. Oh well, seems I only have about 6400rpm. Still pulls to 7k all day if I really want it to...just doesn't make much power past 6500. I suspect head work is needed to get this thing breathing better.

@LenRobertson, There is the same amount of play cold and warm. I bench bled it before installation with the new master. I have a sufficient return spring on the slave. No change in behavior cold/hot that I can tell. Slave always returns to the same position. Binding the pedal arm ? I've had everything somewhat apart, I screwed around with the pedal for about an hour once trying to grease and check for binding ... No change, didn't find anything wrong with the mechanism. So I drove the car tonight again, started out fine because its freshly bled(again!!!) drove for a few miles of windy roads so no stop/go ... got home and clutch is same sticky behavior as I maneuvered into my garage. Could it be binding inside the bell housing somehow ??? But this gearbox was in the 280zx before and the clutch was working perfectly ... Everything was packed with grease on installation correctly ... Next step is taking it to a shop ... after that take it to a Datsun guy and see if he can figure it out. Edit- Alex Datsun said something interesting ... I am running valvoline DOT 3&4 fluid and the only other fluid I tried was a DOT 3&4 fluid ... I'm going to try bleeding it out with DOT3 rated fluid ... see what happens.

Yeah, I can live with that, the thrust angle however I cannot live with.

@KyushaKai, I had the config like this when i snapped the (NEW) 6" c-clamps ... 1 - truck add-a-leaf kit thats suppose to raise a truck by 2", flipped on top. 2 - main wagon leaf 3- truck main leaf with bushing eyelets cut off 4 - truck 2nd leaf 5 - truck flat 3rd leaf 6 - wagon 3rd leaf .... It was too much opposing forces. Best way to flip leafs is to have some de-arched, or find a flat leaf from any truck to fit in the pack. If you're flipping leafs, the safest and easiest way to do it is with a hydraulic press !

You mean the leaf pin? no, they're new.