Stupid_fast

This thread is due for an update... So I just post some pics over the passed few months. I have not done much to it, but I have a few pics I wanted to post. A few are reposts from the R1 thread. IMAG0332 by pherexion, on Flickr IMAG0306 by pherexion, on Flickr Messing with a lens for my phone. IMAG0370 by pherexion, on Flickr IMAG0367 by pherexion, on Flickr IMAG0373 by pherexion, on Flickr IMAG0377 by pherexion, on Flickr Nothing exciting, just cleaning up my wheels for the bayline meet .. IMAG0478 by pherexion, on Flickr IMAG0479 by pherexion, on Flickr Then on the way back from bayline I blew my head gasket. ADERP. Made it home and parked in the garage running perfect. Didn't find out until the next morning. So pulled apart and send head to machine shop for resurface. IMAG0554 by pherexion, on Flickr WTF ?! Those aren't stock valves. They're in fact 44mm valves. exhausts are stock 35mm. IMAG0556 by pherexion, on Flickr Wait ... Those pistons aren't stock either. IMAG0546 by pherexion, on Flickr So I've got a big valve 0.040 over L20b ... Not a stock one. If it pulls too good to be stock, its probably not stock. Threw it all back together with an SCE ICS titan copper head gasket ... IMAG0673 by pherexion, on Flickr Before I pulled the head, the garage needed a reorganization to fit the cars better. IMAG0538 by pherexion, on Flickr IMAG0539 by pherexion, on Flickr Oh yes, this thread is about a ZX too. 510's getting all the love... IMAG0361 by pherexion, on Flickr But the ZX has some slow progress. IMAG0417 by pherexion, on Flickr IMAG0415 by pherexion, on Flickr IMAG0518 by pherexion, on Flickr Harness got new connectors. IMAG0562 by pherexion, on Flickr And got it running, not without issues. Still a few things to work out before its drivable but overall troubleshooting is going well. IMAG0540 by pherexion, on Flickr IMAG0541 by pherexion, on Flickr DAT DAILY. IMAG0462 by pherexion, on Flickr /thread.

@darrel, agreed, only use outer urethane or stock rubber bushes. Or preferably get Techno Toy Tuning adjustable TC rods !! zcarparts.com sells a master urethane kit for the ZX, its what I have.

@280zx18 and captaingamez, S13 coilovers have been done dozens of time, there are ton of write ups on hybridz, zdriver, and other sites. Basicly front strut tubes need to be cut, collars welded on, rear strut mounts have to be re drilled for S13 top hats. If you're daily driving, there is no point to having coilovers. They blow out and need a rebuild 20-40k miles depending on the set, and a lot of the cheaper $800 range are not rebuildable. think $1000-1400 for a good set of just the coilovers. MSA sway bars is what I went for, as I said have not driven yet but it should provide the best balance. Its the kit with the larger rear sway bar, should be more neutral than the other kits I saw. I would go for a mild drop while you're at it also, stock ZX height is preposterous. 1-2 " drop can still retain comfort and utility depending on where you live. My cressida had a ton of body roll stock, I cut the springs 1" drop and replaced the shocks with KYB GR2 and it eliminated a huge amount of body roll.

30 years old, replace all the bushings. It'll handle like a 5000lb american sedan if you don't. I know because my brother daily drove and 83 like that for a year! Was scary when I started tearing into the suspension. Inspect everything, replace -EVERY- component that looks unfit to use. Personally I replaced every bushing, new KYB shocks, and all tie rods/ball joints. Have not had a chance to drive the car on this setup yet, but should get it back to stock handling at least and be safe enough to drive and the cheapest option. If you're looking for performance, I've heard bad things about the tokico HP255 kit. Better than stock but not really a good performance suspension, but I have no personal experience. I hear you can replace the front strut fluid with motorcycle fork oil, stiffen up the stock shocks they work just fine. But I'm not sure if you can get new seals- when I removed the stock shocks the seals had to be torn to remove them. You could put bigger sway bars and upgrade to urethane bushings while you're doing it if you want, it'll give you a stiff and noisier ride but will tighten up the handling. Check the brakes. Bleed new fluid through all the lines and make sure the pads have enough material left. Should take very little work to get into a drivable/safe condition, especially if it has been well maintained.

@DADZSUN, Are those valve seats recommended repair for any set of carbs? Need to order 4 of those? It'd be interesting if some of the tuning issues we're having are worn parts.

Ethanol mix should require nothing more than a different tune. I don't know how to tune for ethanol, but was chatting with my mechanic about it. Carbs should run fine with it when tuned right.

@DADZSUN, No ! Float level were the first thing I was going to try when I get my motor back together. I have the innovate LC-1, I'll continue sharing AFR data as I mess with the tune. The o2 is mounted right at the end of the header next to the steering box.

CANBY !?!? 5 weeks ?!?! I was told to go by some ratsun peoples. I just got my head back from the machine shop.

72ft-lb last i checked.

Sounds like your L18 is running nice! Vac Adv gave me a ton of trouble as well, static timing seems to run just fine. I'm surprised it runs out around 5700, must be the cam profile? My AFR is too rich on the bottom(around 10:1 at 2000rpm) and too lean at the top(13.5 at 6000), yours looks like a much more flat AFR across the rev range. Could it be my needles ? I don't think they're stock R1 needles. From reading about tuning, I'm not really sure what parts effect this range of tuning.

your hand is acting as a choke. Red ones too lean Blue ones slightly rich or just right. Revvs should dip slightly when choking the carbs. synch the air, then tune the mixture. change the screw until you can head the idle go up/down set it to 'lean best' on each barrel of the carbs. It will take a while if you're new to sidedrafts but you can at least get it set well enough to drive. Balance the airflow with a sync tool ... there is no way around it this NEEDS to be done.

I was going to comment on your goon, then I OMG Ferrari 308 GT4 ... :blink: Your goon is looking good ! I want to race you. I need a challenger to push me to refine my setup. Man that drive tunnel looks fantastic, I really do need to get that done!

PIcknpull says 82 datsun pickup in modesto ... If anyone going there can you check if it is a 06w block ??

Tendril beat me to it with my own pics! :rofl: 15x7 0 with a 195-50 ( I had 55's before) tire is a tight fit, but theres some room before the rim will start to hit the leafs so I'm sure you could fit a 15x8 +20 or so back there. Also keep in mind my axle is slightly mis aligned, so one side is about 5mm further in than the other(you can see in the pics) It all depends on how badly you really want them to fit. I have rolled fenders, and a combination of 510 and 720 truck leafs... no blocks.

Balance the carbs ? Some carbs just make strange noises- if its running right don't worry about it? Rich that up, 14 AFR is too lean @ WOT...

You're looking nice and tanned. :rofl:

OS giken sells new units for the roadster- should work in the wagon H190. ...about $1800.

in the US this was branded as the 280ZX 2+2, all models came with an L28. A neat find- but I'm afraid there aren't many enthusiasts for the ZX model.

Blew the head gasket in my 510. Got my Z started the next day after doing barely anything on it for weeks.

Ah right you already posted that, I was sleepy at the time I posted. :P Thanks, hopefully I'll have those in a week or two.

Well yeah, for only $80 I'm definitely interested in a set !!! Sounds great ! Where do I throw my money?

@HudsonMC, I didn't get stock stacks when I bought the carbs, if I see a set up for sale I'll buy em but I figured it would be more worth it to upgrade them. They seem to be about $40 on ebay ...

@dangero, I thought of that using a clamp or rubber sleeve to attach the stacks, it seems like the best solution short of welding them on. I am also running a pipercross filter on mine, I was thinking a small stack could fit under them, but I have not measured anything yet. Would even a short stack not fit? An interference fit would be nice, but would it in any way effect the air flow ? I'm not sure if I care as I just crave that sweet velocity stack sound. At $20 a stack it seems like a great option, the only aftermarket R1 stacks run for $250+