Stupid_fast

^I'm gonna build a 2.3 block for my cammed U67 head and R1 carbs!!! Hope to make a nice 140+ whp

Calipers are rusted junk and I've wanted to replace them for years ... kek And yes, basically roads like Mulhulland every time I drive it.

I was also under the impression rotors didn't have to be turned unless they where wobbling or otherwise causing issues - They should be turned anyway ? heh @laecaon, I really have no idea what master i have. I'm only guessing its a stock 510 one. I may try different options and see what I like best. With my throttle cable setup my pedal comes way further up than stock anyway.

Well not on the brakes very hard.... but the car sees corners more than it sees straights. Went through my last set of tires in 7k miles. Hopefully I'll be able to buy a new brake setup at the end of the month and won't have to worry about stock brakes anymore.

Not track days... but plenty of canyon runs. But as I said, with an L20b and sticky suspension/tire setup Im not on the brakes that much. Then again this is my fourth brake pad change in 10k miles. Drums are still fine. LOL

I did not sand the rotors, I sanded the caliper brackets where they slide against eachother. (self-adjusting to the slanted pads) The rotors were turned like 10k miles ago ... I have not seen a reason to do it again ? The sky decided to rain tonight, when I ran earlier it was only sprinkling luckily but I'd rather not go for another run tonight. Next time its dry I'll throw it through a pass and see if I can wear them in good. Thanks for the help guys.

more drift pig ZX's. Not sure if I approve. Because my ZX is probably going to be a drift slut. Looks cool. :thumbup:

THE REWARD IS MORE CHEEEZE. Just drove about on a flat road in 3rd gear holding the brake for about a minute, then tested em out a few times. Definitely better, fronts actually got to lock up once! Looks like they do need to wear in. Them more you know ... Thanks guys. These should last a month or two to save for a good brake setup.

I've always been under the impression the 280ZX 15/16ths master was too radical for rear drum brakes. And that the 280z (big front disc + rear drum) was the desirable setup. So ZX master ??? Bendix maybe? They are the same pads I ran last time. I bought them at the same time, they worked perfectly last time! I didn't have to wear them in last time, why would I have to wear them in this time ??? plus soft pedal feel. I prefer a firm pedal with good feedback.

The bleeders are new, and fluid is coming out of them. Bubbles came out when I initially opened them up. Lots of fluid came through the system. Yup the rear bleeder. Didn't touch the drum system as they've been working well. Was going to replace the master at the same time as front brake upgrade ... 280z master to replace stock 510 one. If the master had died, would the rear brakes still work perfectly ??!?!! Friend was telling me about some brembos still have to call the source he mentioned for information. I still don't see the point in getting anything better than ZX fronts ... Even if I had a heavier motor. But worth to check the asking price of that setup. Car has so much grip and so little power that I barely even use the 510 brakes through a mountain road.

maybe. I could try pulling out the calipers again and filling them up with fluid manually before reinstalling. But I don't understand .. Its probably something to do with the fact I tried cleaning out the calipers ?? It was some autozone brake cleaner. Got a ton of rust/dirt out of the calipers... I'd expect them to work better. No, the front brakes barely work drastically reducing the effectiveness of the brakes. Last test drive took it up to 40mph, mashed on the brakes and the rears locked and it went a little sideways.(no problem with a little counter steer, of course. Stayed in my lane.) I only drove it around the block near my house. Its not a big problem since its not my daily. but I'm not driving it until they're fixed.

Nope, I disassembled them and reassembled one at a time. Also I put new bleeders in the top hole. Glad to know its not only a mystery to me... thanks for the comments. I'm just gonna go with bad calipers. As I said I need new brakes anyway.

its in my post, yes. I bled about half a liter through the lines. Clear fluid coming out of the tube and no bubbles.

Le bump. PENDING SALE! maybe gone soon.

They only go in one way. Each side is angled differently. These are the same pads I ran last time with no issues. Le rage... I don't want to buy new brakes right now.

These are stock 1972 510 front disc brakes. I thought I'd clean up my brakes and get em to work a bit better because they're rusty and don't work great. I removed the calipers, and disassembled them. I cleaned up the brackets, sanded some rust off of them so they're smooth at the contact points, re-greased them and assembled them. For the cylinders, I took out the bleeders and blasted out the pistons with brake cleaner both ways a few times, some bits of rust and crap came out. I let them sit to dry for about 15 minutes, while I was reassembling the caliper brackets. I installed new pads and bleeder valves and reassembled everything onto the struts. Then I bled the left side until fluid ran clear, then bled right side until fluid ran clear. Ran about 1/4th a liter of fluid through to get it bled. pumped up the pedal and it feels softer now. I took it for a drive downhill, hard on brakes and the rear drums lock up and the fronts are doing barely anything. It stops ... but not very well at all, I drove back around the block to my house. I tried bleeding at the master cylinder, and the fluid ran clear with no bubbles. Then I bled both sides again, the fluid was clear with no bubbles. My bleed method is using a bottle of brake fluid and some tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder. It has worked well in the past with these brakes and bleeding the clutch. It worked slightly better when I bled them again, but a test drive and the rears lock up and the fronts are barely working. Before I did anything the fronts would lock about the same time as the rears if I really got on the brakes. I'm planning to upgrade the brakes to ZX or other option soon, but I just bought new tires and motor upgrades and don't want to break the bank yet if I don't have to. I'm really curious if I've done something wrong. I don't understand why they aren't working after trying to repair them. I've been checking le google but have not found anything useful. Thanks. TL;DR, Changed front pads, cleaned calipers, bled system, rears now grip more than the fronts and soft pedal.

The spark is yellow... weak spark. Thats the only thing I could find. Cam timing is fine, firing order is fine. Voltage to the coil is fine. Ima bring my old coil from my ZX and L28 and see if it will run. Dizzy and coil from my ZX didnt help ...

Is that header coated, or just polished ?

(•_•) I'll drop by later. ( •_•)>⌐□-□ We'll get it running. (⌐□_□) Stupid fast.

I have three cars. Why would you tempt me like this.

That shell is so clean... Looks great, indy.

Damn good price! GLWS.

Larger front sway bar increases understeer. Larger rear swaybar increases oversteer. Everywhere I've seen except what you say has said this. I can see in some situations, the increased steering response by a properly sized front bar can decrease understeer. But I'm no pro. :)

True story.

Nice, glad you sorted it out. :thumbup: