Stupid_fast

@ Wayno, There is a ticking/pinking noise when I'm going up those hills or throttling in 3rd along that road ... Then when I open it up higher RPM it goes away. No suspension? Hahah, well I've got 200lb front springs illumina shocks, ect .. its quite stiff but there is definitely a good amount of travel. Also those roads are very bumpy... Even my cressida clunks along. They are quad motorbike / SU-style carbs.

It is NOT valve noise. I do have valve tick at idle from the big cam, and I know what it sounds like when its worse. Timing 8 deg @ 1000rpm no vac advance. Went for a quick drive around the block. Ah and an excuse to try out my new fish eye lens for my phone ! VIDEO/sound clip; http://youtu.be/Sx8uzggHSCo Double clutching like I should @ 1:23. If this sound is not pinging, what is it?

Then what is it? Sounds like pinging. goes away @ 3500 rpm. BRB video.

I cant get rid of it... Its an L20b with a 490 lift/ 281 duration cam advanced about 3 deg. Other than cam and valve springs its a stock motor. Under 3500rpm, it will ping at anything but light throttle. Top end runs fine 3500 to 6000 pulls strong. It did it with the weber DGV(less severe) and now on my R1 carb setup. I can make the carb so rich its losing power and barely accelerating, and it still pinging. I can retard the timing back 4-6 degrees and it will not change how it pings. Running a matchbox dizzy and coil. NGK BP5EY. Compression is about 150psi across all four cylinders. I'm running 91 octane. Any ideas?

Wow really? That sucks cause I had a set of weber 180's and I just drilled out my 138's to 190 thinking I'd never need anything smaller than 180... I'll run to VW shop tomorrow and buy some jets to drill out. 160's on an L20 ?? this thread says 160's on an L16.. I'm gonna go pick up some fresh plugs tomorrow and see if I can get it tuned up. Thanks for the tip.

So I put a larger 190 main jet ... Now its bogging and pinging from WOT until about 3500rpm ... Less pinging with the smaller jet! after 3500 it pulls all the way to 6000 nicely. Seems less responsive with the 190 mains. Any tips? I'm going back to the 180 and then mess with the pilot system. Needles are one notch rich. Also I noticed my needles have 6 clip positions. maybe aftermarket ??

@alex .. Fuel pump only thing I can think of at this point. I need to get my Z running too!

Carb gaskets are arriving Saturday... So I'll be able to make it.

Oh and, bogg bros intake is made to U67 spec. Port match is sexy... Anyone want to sell me stock R1 velocity stacks for cheap? :geek:

@VintageRice, Already raised the needle jets. I meant the mid-RPM range ... I'm getting a lot of pinging there at anything but very light throttle. The top feels a bit lean too, I'm going to go up one step on the mains and go from there. With the idle 3.5 turns out it was backfiring out the carb sometimes, with 4 turns out it feels better so that leads me to believe the pilot needs to be larger. Since you said in a post before that your mixture screws fell out with more than 3.5 turns ... I think its a good idea to richen up the jets. edit, TIP for new guys, buy new float bowl o-rings ! Seriously wish I had a new set to drop in. Especially if your carbs were sitting for a while like mine. YAMAHA part no# 4XV-14562-00-00

This car is badass, I've riden in it and wish I could afford it. Tons of fun, too bad you have to sell it. Bought some seats from him, too. GLWS!

Hey, That autox looked like lots of fun! I hope I can get my car out to the next local event. Your car looks fast.

Thankss! I know I'm a bit late in the party but I'm glad I've finally made it. :thumbup: Well I ordered the 17.5 pilot jets as my idle is 4 turns out right now. I'll see how it does. I kinda like the popping, sounds kinda like a sportbike. But the midrange is still lean, hopefully going a tad up on all the jets will get it sorted. I accidentally ripped one of the o-rings while trying to clean the gasket sealer off of them, so no go until the new ones arrive. I forgot about reading your post before, otherwise I would have soaked them in ATF/gas first. :unsure: Gone over this thread for the third or fourth time. I was thinking of doing your exhaust flange method, but I really would like something like T3's velocity stacks... Since there is room, I want to run 1-2" ones under my filter. It feels strong ! Pulls all the way through 4th gear. I can't wait to get it dialed in and see how it cruises. So much nicer to drive with these carbs. It sounds even better in the cabin, the video does not fully pick up the induction noise. especially at higher rpm you just hear the carbs and the exhaust together it just sounds great. The pipercross filter does not muffle the induction too much.

Thanks for the link, indy. I may just have my aluminum manifold coated at the same time.

What shop did you have it done at? I'm tempted to coat my header. Its getting pretty rusty at this point and I don't want it to start leaking in the future. Damn that engine bay looks GOOD. Because of you, i'm going to polish my intake pipes. And +1 to the octopus design on the car.

This setup was so easy. Popped everything together, started it up. I'm using the R1 fuel pump, it seems to work great. It stops pumping if the float bowls are full. Does not need a regulator or return line. I mounted it next to the battery using an ignition coil mount bracket with some neoprene padding. Then I ran the fuel line through the frame rail.( see pic above) its fused and mounted on a relay. Anyone know what kind of fuse should be on there? its a random 15A right now. Carbs immediately started leaking from the float bowls on the first startup. I just put some gasket sealer on this weekend so I could drive and mess with it, but I pulled the carbs back off and cleaned it off.(was a pain...) I ordered some new R1 float bowl o-rings, should arrive sometime next week. Forgot about vintagerice's trick to soaking them in ATF... I wish I had tried that. Throttle response and idle are way better than the DGV, idle stable and smooth down at 600-700rpm now. That's with a 490 lift cam ! Running Bogg bros reccomended vac adv puts it at like 20-30deg advance at idle, runs terrible. I'm just running it plugged and it seems fine. 180 main jet, 4 turns on idle and synced. I'm getting a ton of pinging in the midrange, but above about 3700rpm it pulls nice with no pinging. I lowered the needle seat but it didn't help much and played with the timing that didn't help either. Also I'm getting the popping on decel in the midrange (2000-3500rpm) like vintagerice was talking about. I'm going to go a step up on the mains and pilot jets and see how it does. Syncing the carbs was easy, took about 2 minutes to get it completely even from never doing it before. Has anyone found cheap velocity stacks? I'd like to add some in but the R1 aftermarket are just so expensive. Tempted just to find used stock/OE R1 stacks. All the info in this thread is great. :thumbup: And this carb setup is great. Can't wait to get it dialed in. Not the best run, but I made a video.

Fiero chassis. They do it for Lamborghini reps. :rofl:

Yup, those are the vents for the top slider. They're left open.

I have JDM tails on my goon. And I'm jealous you have a pair. That's how rare they are.

Ah my friend was telling me something about the truck cover easier to use for something ... Maybe I misheard or misunderstood. I ordered everything from bogg bros and its shipped ...

I think you need the truck/ D21 front cover to use the L ignition stuff on the KA.

Damn hondas... Go back to hondatech meets! :fu: My car is actually running okay now... so I'd be down for another fun run.

Ozdat says L28 is 86mm. Shorter gearing does not always decrease fuel economy, depending on how the engine is built it could be more efficient at higher RPM's.(Less throttle input, same speed) with an OD 5 speed gearbox, you should be fine with shorter gearing.

$43,000 for a TC16.