Stupid_fast

Indy, I'll give you $50 for ruby. I have room in my side yard... My parents will love that LOL. Was walking to work today, look what I found three blocks from my office! Same place as last time! I left a ratsun card. 300ZX seats and an autometer tachometer? Were those installed last time you saw it?

@vintagerice, Yeah, its great where its at so... I may check it just for lulz but meh. just a guess its around 12-14 degrees idle. I calibrated my innovate AFR today, and went for a run... seems it gets around 13.0:1 right around 6000rpm then drops around 12.7:1 around 6500rpm, so I say its good there, a little on the lean side but its mean and doesn't run too hot! May drop to a 200 jet just for added piece of mind. I'm going to fix the needle midrange tuning next, then move down to the float bowls and see what I can do about the low end richness. My needles are set SUPER lean because of the low end float problem, I've got a terrible part throttle lean out above 3000rpm due to where i have it set that I never realized until I recalibrated the o2 sensor ... Anyway, I'll report back with my tuning success!

Hot.

Ooooor you can ride with me again. :wub:

Ah, the way you worded it sounded like you want to watch touge where people are drifting .... as in been watching too much initial D. :rofl: I'm all for drifting for fun, don't get me wrong... even more fun on a tight windy road.

reply to orignal posts, any kinds of racing that isnt an OVAL TRACK. Touge? Drifting? Who would ever want to drift on a touge circuit? You'd lose. And yes, I love touge, where an S15 is considered a heavy car. Because I know what those roads are like, and my car is built like a touge car.

Is there anyone who knows how to really tune these? I'm still trying to figure out my low end rich, top end lean... also I have a part throttle lean popping issue around 3000rpm, AFR will be fine cruising around 13.5:1 and then it will randomly lean pop out the carbs and then go back to normal. i have to make the needles too rich and hurt drive ability to fix it. I had to up to 190 main jets to keep under 13.5:1 full throttle above 5000rpm, but under 3000rpm full throttle I can get under 10:1 AFR ... pilots at 17.5. It pulls over 7000rpm right now but still a bit lean up there over 13:1 afr, It feels like a 200 jet would be more ideal for the top. Floats are set to 6mm height, made a good difference but not much. Only a bit more smooth, what does float height effect ? Its still very drivable, I'm starting to think its just issues due to the cam I have, .490 lift 281 duration. I still feel these could be tuned a bit better. Edit, I just read through all the tuning info in this thread again, pretty sure its the float height causing my low end rich. I have it set at 6mm right now, I'll try 7mm or 8mm. and my other issue, pretty sure its the pilot air jets, I'll check them and report back. I think Im going to try stepping up to a 200 main jet and see how it reacts above 6000rpm. With the AFR's rising past 13.5 with the 190 jets, I feel there is more power to be had at the top. Surprisingly I have no pinging, and stupidly I have no idea where my dizzy is set. I put it by ear and left it and forgot about it... This is the issue I'm having, AFR goes to 15:1-ish and pops out carbs then stablizes back to normal around 13.5:1 cruise...

@MikeRL411, Thanks, I will look into it! Seeing how fast I go through brake fluid, its probably a good idea to get the best I can.

Indy opened a portal to a magical land of twisty mountain roads...

What. That blimp!! THat is awesome! I didn't even notice ! Nice pictures as always, INDY!

started tearing down my front suspension this afternoon. Its now 3am.

And I need bitches. Both need a description. I'd pay $50 for one. I'm assuming fuel pump blockoff. Any parts store, chevy one, make gaskets, bolt on.

a proper tuned offy is 'suppose' to get better power and economy, due to the dual-port design for the progressive carb... but I've never seen a dyno sheet. If you have one, why not? It looks cool.

I wonder how many people would watch that livestream.... I could probably livestream from my phone, but no idea about the signal I'd get along that route.

aaaaaaa! This is next weekend ! Got my car started Saturday.

pilot bushing has nothing to do with clutch wear. The input shaft rides on the pilot bushing. When its bad it will cause a squeel. F10 has an A engine right ?? pilot bushing is located in front of the flywheel, in the end of the crank shaft. I'm guessing the clutch pad is what is going. Um, maybe you shouldn't slip the clutch so much. :sneaky: Is the flywheel new, or has been resurfaced? Clutch adjustment, master or slave cylinder, clutch is probably not fully disengaging causing premature wear.

That guide is different from every other resource I've read on 32/36 tuning. Idle mix screw should be 1.5-2.5 turns out, it ran a ton better then when I was tuning to 2-3 turns out. AFAIK 10 = 1 step up, 140 main -> 150 main = 1 step, .5's are just for fine tuning once its around the right setting. Air jets 10 = 1 step... BIGGER air jet = more lean at the top end. The video, that sounds just like a 32/36... Never runs right... its why I just replaced the carb. Dude it sounded like you were shifting at 3000rpm ... that's barely off the idle circuit. 160/160 mains ? can you tell if its a lean stumble(cuts out, then cuts in abruptly) or rich stumble(sputtering, bogging)?

I don't know anything about chassis, but I just had this picture in my head for the most awesome tube frame setup to keep this ride height.... Well maybe +1" up so you have some suspension travel. Keep stock hood? Just shave down an L16 block like 2", run it with super short rods ....

I did. I thought it was obvious so I didn't even post it. Its a daily, just put some autozone somethingorother DOT3/4 fluid. Bled the lines through quite a bit, brakes work fine now. One thing I've been trying to work out for years, when I'm idling at a stop holding my brakes idle dips ~590rpm and starts to vibrate a bit, when I idle in gear with ebrake on it does not do this. I'm thinking the brake booster could be going bad? I can't find a vac leak, but the pedal is a bit hard.

I do love the sound of flat out in the city....

I never got rid of throttle stumble by playing with main jets. Gets too rich before it'll go away. Play with the airs, then start upping the pump jet. Screw single DCOE setups ... go duals or go home from what i've heard. That motor can probably take twin 45's. But thats just a guess. Its what i've read from every weber tuning source I could find online. If yours runs right like that w/e I dunno. Never got that bitch to run right on my motor. 140 main jet with a 2 liter maybe, not a cammed 2.3...?

On an SR? Hot. Put big cams on it.

You can get a 10-piece drill bit set from 1.00-2.00 mm ... That's what I have. Really usful for tuning. Just start with small jets and work them up until rich, buy the set one step leaner.

Did you up the idle jet already ? should be at least a 65 or 70 on that 2.2... drop a 160, it might sputter onto the secondary but just worry about the primary right now. could even just 150/150 or 160/160 don't touch the air jets and call it good. Stock airs should be 170/160. Just make it more rich, if it doesn't run perfect that's fine as long as its not lean like it is now.