Stupid_fast

straight up ?? it looks like its plugging itself with the spring down. so every parts store sells the wrong damn thermostat ??? gonna go drill a 1/16 hole as per something i read from hainz a while ago...

how do you tell what direction to install a thermostat ?? I flipped it on the way that the diagram (hayens manual) shows and now it overheats. new thermostat, I stove tested it and it seems to be opening/closing properly. I need to order the nissan one no way to get it locally AFAIK.

@hainz, The petcock is a NOS new one it works perfectly. The cable is broken I have to open/close it manually. The heater works fine when the temperature gauge reads 160+ its quite hot like it should be. Heater is only cool when water temp 120 and below especially at speed when it has a nice amount of airflow through it. @Eagle_adam, thank you for that part number.

The fiero aluminum is the only rad I have .. I'll go get more thermostats from another brand and test. Wouldn't be surprised if autozone stuff was my issue. When I pull them out cold they're closed... I do not have a bipass hose. Its setup like L16 cooling. Has 1/16th 'jiggle' valve bypass thingy. Heater is noticeably warmer when the water temp rises, and noticeably cooler when it drops on the freeway. I have a functional heater valve and I can turn it off with a small effect to the running temp. I need heater to defrost the windows and keep my fingers from freezing on the steering wheel!

Cardboard works OK. But sucks in the rain, gets all wet hard to re-use cause I pull it off for parking lot shenanigans. :sweat: The heater is COLD too. I guess just block off more of the radiator ??? 1400718_798301113518378_2137036540_o

Hi Ratsun ! I've got an L20b with R1 side drafts, cam, fiero radiator and a clutch fan setup. Temp gauge is an autometer electric short sweep. Thermostat is a 180*, I've swapped it out and verified working tested by stove/pyrometer. (and i have like 3 of them... all tested to same result) In traffic sitting on a hot day(80-90*) it will reach 180* after sitting a few minutes and sit there never overheats and usually idles under 170*. While cruising on the freeway the temps will run really cold, most of the time on warm days it will sit around 150-160*, when it gets cold and at night the temp will drop down under 110, and the motor will start to run lean and pop out the carburetors unless I run with the choke on. I've put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator and its enough to keep the engine from going lean and popping. But It still runs cold around 130s-140* at 60-65mph. Ambient temperatures are nearing under 30 degrees ( 0c) lately. Now, while back road spirited driving the temps are still quite cold so my tuned mixture is okay, but drifting the motor gets quite hot due to the limited airflow, I've installed an electric pusher fan to compliment the cooling system for drifting and it works fine, temps stay aorund 170* usually. Now that the engine gets hot to 'normal' operating temps, it starts to run really rich and bog in the low end due to being tuned cold. So basically how do I get my motor to run warmer while rolling so I can lean it out and have it run properly at full temps??? I'd install a 190* thermostat, but coolant usually starts to spit/boil out when it gets over 180. Maybe the carbs are getting too cold, would it help to run coolant through them?

When I ran through hamelton in my cressida, San Jose to livermore... I melted my rear brake calipers going 6/10ths. I stopped half way to pour water on my tires because they where fading HOT on the downhill. This run is going to be amazing. Some parts are narrow, there are no lane markers but plenty of room for tow cars to comfortably pass each other. Just watch the blind corners and use some sense and all should be good.

@Dawa ... That 'usually' means the idle / low speed circuit is rich. Try leaning it out a bit. Better to have the motor running correctly IMO.

Hahahaha you're the only person who makes me feel normal sized. :)

Its only on deceleration in the idle circuit. It gets tiring when it pops loudly any time you engine brake.

Dropped the floats to 9mm (measured from gasket surface to lowest point). I can pull away from 2k full throttle its still rich but doesn't sputter and bog anymore. Still a bit of low end bog getting under 3k drifting, I think I'm going to take the floats to 10mm and it should be good. For those with these carbs who have popping at cruise, your carbs aren't synced perfectly and/or your idle tune is off (too lean). The only time I get popping is running on the freeway at night because my motor is getting overcooled. Just run with the choke on and it doesn't pop anymore. For those who have popping in deceleration, your idle tune is off. (too rich!) I have almost no decel popping after some careful idle tuning by ear. Can engine brake from 3k-2k in 4th gear and maybe get one or two small pop out the exhaust vs popping the whole time before.

I wanted to, then I realized it was thanks giving ... :mellow:

It could result in some minor ram-air effects. Is it worth it? Probably not. If you wanna go fast get some real mods. Carb, cam, ect. @TheDmike, 75 and older is smog exempt in cali.

So rat. So mad max. Can't tell if like or not. An then Thomas is gonna come in and T-bone both of you.

True ... Just set to what racer brown said to. Set at the valves ??? F* that, just measure with a feeler gauge between the rocker and cam. CLOSE ENOUGH. Valve adjust is finnicky on L series. I go to 2 skid pad events and less than 1000 miles and two valves are way tight !!! I usually set them before an event or after driving hard. Minimum maintenance should be check the clearance every oil change and adjust as needed. Valve adjust can have a huge effect on comp test!! Cams, too. I changed the cam and it dropped comp test pressure by 20psi. I've *READ ON THE INTERNET* that running at steady RPM on fresh rings will cause them to seal improperly ... that warm it up to temp and then drive it HARD to about 7/10ths with varying RPM and engine braking ... but then again I read it all on the internet.

Silly question ... did you set the valves? Did you try setting them to stock nissan hot spec and re-do the comp test? My L20b has a TON of blowby when I'm hammering it, no PCV ATM ... but usually only when its edging over 180deg sideways clutch kicking over 6k rpm ... What break-in method did you use? I ran mine hard and they sealed up fine.

I found a set of nos delrin leaf bushings. I wonder if delrin would make another run of them.

5 speed by 2" I believe. C series box same as KA. Shifter assembly is bulkier too. Google is your friend. If you're doing an SR20 swap, I'd hope you had the capability to mock it up yourself.

Yeah in the corner of the skid pad, if you see in the video its by the exit of the course. If you try to hang out wide on that entry you'll go over it ... I had the misfortune of hitting it sideways and it took a good chunk of tread off my tires :\

I scouted those roads once in my Cressida ... its an absolutely incredible area. As I remember roads are open and smooth, scenery is fantastic and not too crowded on a weekend.

My Hamilton sounds amazing, but that's a long way with no gas stations. Just fyi for everyone, went through there with my cressida quickly it was a battle to keep the brakes cool. Took two hours ! Its an absolutely amazing drive though, fantastic road and scenery. Not sure if I can make the next run though. :/

Move along. Nothing to see here. Just another kid adjusting his slave rod incorrectly. :mellow:

Well, TFH is a drift team. Everyone is welcome but it is usually new school tuner and drift cars. Yes, unfortunately in sf/ bay area its hard to find anywhere that isn't crowded. The lot at gellert is a lot less crowded than the previous spot you mentioned. Last time we had a good chunk of parking lot to ourselves.

Gellert starbucks lot 321 Gellert Blvd, Daly City, CA More like the drifter datsun and import kids scene in SF, but still some ratsun folks show up sometimes! Even had a stock 520 come by one time!

Okay. the issue went away for a good 100 miles. I was at the track last weekend and the clutch wasn't fully disengaging (grinding into 2nd, reverse from a stop). I adjusted the slave a little bit just so the clutch would disengage when on the floor. When I got home, I threw the front on jack stand and played with it so I have 2-3mm play at the clutch fork when the clutch is released. Few miles later, this clutch problem sticky clutch started coming back. Maybe something at the slave is adjusted wrong and causing a bind ??? I don't know what to do.