Stupid_fast

(Picture taken by Alex Datsun) Got my clutch, dropped it by the shop should have my car back soon... . . . not fun. Broken temp gauge and burst coolant hose ruin your day really quick. Next day everything apart, ordered everything I needed and dropped the head to be rebuilt. When I tore it apart it looks like this motor has never been taken apart except for the timing chain done !!! Head back from rebuild. Replaced the injector seals while I was there. Possible vacuum leak here. Torch + gauge cluster... 2 5/8 are just right for the stock dash. More torching, and everything is secure. Looks clean, I was expecting it to be harder to make it look really nice.

IT LOOKS SO COOOOOOOL. ORANGE MATCHES ME CAR TOO. MUST ADD AT LEAST 40HP. Dropped it by Limitless over the weekend, should have my car back Wednesday, then I gotta drive around and break it in.

the center locating pin on the truck pack is in the wrong location. If you drill them yourself you can throw the alignment off badly. grab the flat overload leaf from a 720 or D21, pop it on the top of the pack. I still havn't found a flipped/modded leaf setup that is stiff enough and doesn't ride horrible. other option is to flatten out leafs with a press. or flip the main leaf.

Yeah, but I didn't feel like spending another $600 into this car. if I hadn't found the clutchnet option I would have just thrown the 225mm stuff I have laying around from my ZX. Next time, and for anyone looking to buy a clutch for sure just go with a lightweight 225mm Z/truck clutch setup. the 225mm felt great on my ZX NA 2.8, ect.

I don't have it yet. lol. I sent clutchnet an email today asking for time estimate ... Limitless will probably be able to drop it in within a few days once I have the pressure plate to them. I will update when the car is up and driving around and the clutch is broken in. YOU MUST LEARN PATIENCE BANZAI-SAN.

pop out carbs = lean. popping out one is usually a desync ... did one go lean ? Like eagle adam said float is probable.

@Son_of_a_Datsun_Guy, What you've done is probably the best option with leaf springs for performance. Any modification of the stock setup or stiffening the leaf pack can only get you a marginal upgrade over stock. My car is way too soft, I have tons of body roll and yet when I drive down the 580 it feels like I'm getting punched the ride is so bad lol. I can't even grip it anymore unless its completely smooth pavement. I need proper suspension. @Supra510, hurry up and finish so I can steal all your pictarz! =DDD

If you need rear seats, why not do a single or two buckets in the back? I was thinking of doing this with my wagon to replace the bench. I'm considering a 3-link setup as well ... looking nice so far.

At my new garage =D IMAG1667 by pherexion, on Flickr

I meant since its in state, once they are done making it and ship it by ground it usually only takes a day to get to my house by UPS. I heard it takes them 5 days make an order. They called ... claimed stage 3 is 60% above factory holding force. ITS RATSUN... you should assume pics will be taken. :)

Clutchnet make their own to order in the US. In California too so that's nice for me shipping should take 1 day. Stage 3 was $233 w 20% winter discount. Not bad. Yeah its why I didn't want centerforce. Spec does not have a great rep either. People seem to like cluthnet.

THIS THREAD HAS BARELY PROGRESSED A PAGE SINCE 2012. At Fatlace's word up I lost the whole tread of a tire around the axle and bent the brake line ... bending it back broke it so I replaced it. IMAG1622 by pherexion, on Flickr Also changed the axle bearing and finished off roasting those yokohamas. IMAG1653 by pherexion, on Flickr Did some work finalizing the wiring on the ZX, replaced the fusible link box with the non-burnt one. IMAG1626 by pherexion, on Flickr Drove the ZX to exhaust shop and got the catback welded up. IMAG1658 by pherexion, on Flickr Nice subtle quiet exhaust. Nobody yells at me to slow down when I'm going the speed limit! IMAG1660 by pherexion, on Flickr Just have to get it BAR'd and smogged now. IMAG1666 by pherexion, on Flickr

I don't know enough about smog to really help you there... AFAIK it requires all stock smog equipment to be present and non-modified. I know the rules are more relaxed for older vehicles ... not sure exactly what you can do though.

pre 75 is smog exempt. my 510 was EASY and CHEAP to register. was non-op before didn't require any inspection no questions asked just registered and go. Mojave? I've riden through there before on family road trips I think.

It wasn't from the abuse, it was from being adjusted wrong. I drive our family cars and my ZX gently and cautiously. However I don't require a car to get to work. The only reason I own a car is for track events and weekend driving. 510 was always meant to be my race car. edit- clutchnet has a coupon code for 20% off right now ... so ordered a stage 3 'red' pressure plate to go with my still good light flywheel and stock 200mm disc. I'll report back with how it performs once its installed.

"if I got the money" rather spend the $400 on a KA, or building a 2300 block. I don't have money anymore. The 510 stole everything. Also just ordered a bride seat from jp so... Also forgot to say that my clutch went out while driving away from home ... found that pesky clutch problem was the rivets on the roadster pressure plate breaking. fail on me for having the pedal/slave adjusted wrong I guess. Called the shop that has my 510, they said clutch net was good.

Yeah, continued looking a bit. stock exedy (japanese) L20b pressure plate is $40 ... but I doubt it will survive drift/touge usage. Clutchnet has good reviews, lists pressure plate/disc for 510 200mm application ... Waiting for them to call back I'll report back with what they say. Spec is meh off-brand ... not confident on the quality especially since my clutch will see a lot of abuse.

Thanks mike, but I have a $400 lightweight 200mm flywheel. If I didn't I'd just get a full 225mm setup. 4.38 final drive, 281 duration cam, sidedrafts and a CR trans ... 240mm will be way too "heavy" for this setup. Need to rev fast while drifting for clutch kicks. I'm calling clutchnet to see if they have an option or just buying a HL510/200sx plate until I decide what to do. Do the later HL510/200sx L20b 200mm clutches have higher clamping force ?? What about the truck L16? I can't find clamping force info anywhere online.

Roadster clutch plate 30210-20111 is now $476 list price. SPEC clutch lists for 200mm datsun pressure plates ... as well as some other "ebay" brands ... Not confident on the quality of these. Anyone have another cheap clutch option to hold a modified L20b ?

LOL that roadster is still on jack stands ???? I saw it just like that about 3 months ago ...

@captaingamez, stock ECCS works just fine for running and driving. stock harness and 300ZX ECU swap is probably way simpler and cheaper than megasquirt setup.

You can get the FSM and complete wiring diagrams from XenonS130.com I believe they have the colored diagrams on that site. Trace each wire in the diagram, then you know how to hook it up. Its how I verified the wiring on my 83 N/A -> 82 ET swap. Its literally like 4 wires to get it running.

Spikes a problem ?? Just put on speed-racer style SAWS.

@ggzilla, my setup is like stock L16, there is no bypass. The jiggle pin is what allows vapor/air to bleed out and coolant to flow over the thermostat and open at temp. Without a bypass if you do not have some sort of bleed the thermostat will never open due to a pressure pocket that forms and blocks coolant from reaching the thermostat. By the time the thermostat is hot enough to start opening (165-175 degrees) the water temp is already above 210 ... Thus jiggle valve, or simply remove the jiggle valve and run the hole open. as long as the air has somewhere to bleed out.

Okay I fixed it. Jiggle valve is upside down from oreilly/autozone/shitty parts store/ect. So I had the thermostat upside down to have proper jiggle valve orientation, so the spring is facing upwards and water pressure holds the thermostat open causing a cold running motor. I raped the jiggle valve a little with the vice grips and got it out, popped it in the other side and mamed it a bit with my new hammer to stay in place. Jiggle valve is now the proper way up to let air and a small amount of coolant bleed through. Went out for a rip. Water temp I never saw under 165* , I measured various points on the block and head a few times throughout the run with a pyrometer and it stayed consistent. I can't believe I've been running cold this whole time. It pulls strong to 7k now uphill in 2nd, 3rd gear. Feels great, more smooth and eager to make power. I feel dumb that its been running this way for so long. Probably put a huge amount of wear on it running cold. aaaand now I have uncovered another issue.. the rpms seem to linger a bit on the top end. Seems the carbs are in need of a re-tune at the correct engine temp. Thank you Ratsun gurus for the advice and comments ... As always pointing me in the right direction.