Stupid_fast

I just shove it in ,and then lean on it while pumping. It looks ridiculous, but it doesn't spill and I can fill it quite quick this way. Also the pressure back thingy that releases when the tank is full works with this method.

@Tom1200, Good info, thanks for sharing ! I'd love to see some of your 1200 build! 80hp out of an A12 sounds amazing. FROM mentioned factory pro tuning info; Guys that are setting your needle jets way high to get rid of popping at cruise ... you have your carbs tuned wrong. My popping went away with a good sync and idle tune!

With the 4.38's and my L20b I can slide in 2nd gear with drift spare lanvigator 185-40-14's in the back, I can barely kick out 195-50-15 S.drives in low speed corners. 3rd gear? I'll try at the track tomorrow with the 185's, I don't know if I have enough power.

This isn't insomniacs. Go home DAT510, you're drunk.

Oh, and manual steering SUCKS ASS for drifting.

^agree with Z chopper. Also event costs for drifting. Going on the track all day expect to go through a pair of rear tires and half the tread of the front tires. $450 cheap tires + mounting Plus entry fees. $50-140 Plus whatever costs to get there, fuel, ect. It sounds like you're young with ambitious goals like I was when I got my car. You can barely afford tension bars ???? Forget drifting. You have better things to worry about such finding a solid source of income sufficient to fund the project in a reasonable time frame before you can manage to get into it. If you really love the truck, then keep it and build it up for a while. Upgrade the suspension and fix anything that would be a safety concern (brakes, frame rust, ...), then figure out what route you want to go with power upgrades. Once its at a decent point and you have a solid budget you can see if you can afford drifting or still want to do it. If you still want to go out and drift NOW after all the advice here, It would be cheaper in the long run just to get a decent S13 and weld the diff. You'll spend way more time out on the track and less time screwing with datsun problems. I'm not a drift fanboi hater. I started drifting my wagon, and sometimes it sucks. I'm barely at the point after 3 years where I can drive my car without the fear of something falling off. Just the 0.02$ from my experience.

Its really a great price for the quality they offer. And they can do anything else you need as well, extra ports for pulling vacuum, ect. Just be careful with budgeting it out, I ended up spending just as much or more as getting DCOE's after the tuning parts and accesories. The parts add up quickly. Also a quick tip for the carbs ... If you pull the carbs or touch them at all recheck the sync! My carbs have been running rough for a while I had no idea why because I synced them perfectly a month or so before. I did pull the manifolds to reach the transmission bolts a few weeks ago but didn't touch anything on the carbs. I finally checked the balance last night and they were way off! 3&4 were pulling quite a bit more air. Its just a good habit to check the sync regularly, if you notice the motor running rough or just as general maintenance like valve adjustments. You'll get very big pops at cruising speed if the sync is off, too. Also set each idle mixture screw by ear for best results. Carbs can be finicky, mix screws at the same turns out may not be the optimal setting. Turn in until you hear RPM drop, then back off slowly until smoothest idle is achieved.

Don't hold them to it because they've never done an A series manifold (to my knowledge) but both the manifolds I've gotten from them where about $365 shipped. Good luck finding someone in the US to make one for cheaper.

Bogg Bros is in the UK, they're reputable shop the only con is the $100 shipping, but you get your part in under 4 days when they ship it. I found something interesting about the float bowl settings on a bike forum... This is a slip you get with a rejet kit for the R1 bike. According to this the float level can go as low as 11mm (from gasket surface to bottom of float) for a heavily ported/tuned motor. I'm going to play around with it a bit tonight and see if I can get some results. http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=387913&d=1252600835

Doesn't the 210 wagon have leaf springs?

GO INDY!!! Fuel cell... I'm planning to get one in the next month or so due to having fuel leak out of my quarter panel if my tank is full. When mounted all pretty ,that fuel cell is going to be nice to have. :thumbup:

@Sealik, you missed the part where I said "Needs lash pads and valve springs too.". Stock springs floated around 6600rpm-7300rpm depending on how good they felt that day. Lash pads and wipe pattern were set when I installed the cam.

Was marked .490. Regrind. Oldschool tuner gave it to me and told me to put it in. Did not question. Needs lash pads and valve springs too.

My 510 was twitchy at high speeds until I got adjustable tension rods and dialed in some castor. Steering box adjust helped too. Now its stable cruising over 80...

@Mister_Freezy.... Your car is bad!! AND YOU SHOULD FEEL BAD!!! :rofl: Nothing wrong with a work in progress... It just ain't exactly eyecandy with 2" rubber sticking out the back fender. I never said I didn't like where it was headed ...

@Mister_freezy, haha!! Its a fine car, and if you like that style thats all you!! Its just not seem to be with the theme of this thread ...

Fuuuuuuuuu I need those fenders... And the trim... and the door springs... and the everything...

Does anyone have any progress on figuring out the detailed tuning bits on these carbs? I'm still trying to get mine working right. I've had no luck with finding better needles either ...

you should be asking for pics of tandems. :ph34r:

^This isnt ricer sightings...

Swapped the gearbox ... I was only able to drive for a few minutes because this "low milage" gearbox I bought has bearing growl louder than a banshee wail. But I think I found the reason... and I "THINK" its gone but I didn't post because I won't be able to tell until I get my gearbox back from the rebuilder. On the 83 box there was a washer under the clutch pivot knob thing ... I think that may have been causing some of it ... I don't understand how though. I'll report back when I have my gearbox put back in.

WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT!!! I want to build one. I have a 280zx 1979 box with 3.321 1st gear ... does it require combining two gearboxes or you mean just swap around the shafts on one box? huh. You're running a turbo KA? And you're looking into getting a $3000+ close ratio gear set? If your running out of first gear too quick ... replace the final drive ratio !! Go down to a 3.70 or 3.54. No need to change gearbox ratios, final drive will give you the effect you're looking for at a LOT lower cost and effort.

Why not S13(89-93 240sx) coilovers Go look how its done on a 280zx. Same way on a 510. Megan, bc racing, stance, PBM, fortune auto ... I hear PBM are designed to go low. Need custom threaded sleeve though as the ones they come with are aluminum. 8k(448lb)/6k(336lb) springs usually too stiff for a street 510, but if your ride is slammed they may actually be right for it. 6k front 5k rear would probably be better ride quality. Depends on where and how you drive. With a coilover setup like this you can adjust ride height without changing shock travel. When you lower with a ground control style, you take travel out of the shock and the spring is no longer seated on its perch ... when suspension droops there is basically no spring rate... when comes back down you get a clunk as the spring slaps back into its seat. Most datsun guys probably don't do it due to cost. I want to 4-link my wagon just so I can run s13 coils. OR cheap solution shorten your front struts and run good MR2 inserts and stiff springs like most of the 510 guys do. I have that setup... whatever it works. @Just Joel ... IDK I feel higher spring rate with matching shocks makes it more comfortable. Maybe its the difference of how the roads are over here, but I couldn't imagine taking spring rate out of mine and its not slammed !

3.54 is stock for the 280zx !!! I drive it, it actually feels great with the T5 gearing. Remember, the T5 has the 3.5 1st gear, and the 0.780 5th. The 3.54 puts it in a nice ratio for the 2.8 liter motor. Turning 2500rpm @ 68mph it makes a great cruiser. the 510 has a 4.38. :) With the 83 late model gearbox it means I'm turning 3500rpm @ 70mph. Still acceptable for the 4cyl.

Sooo I swapped another gearbox ... and its worse than the other one. Dropped the 83 at the shop but I don't think it'll be ready in time. Going to swap back the gearbox I got with the car, at least to run this weekend for Our Star Bash skid pad. Clutch looks good this time. No problems. Everything seems pretty solid once I get the rebuilt gearbox back this thing should be a reliable driver!! IMAG1458 by pherexion, on Flickr IMAG1453 by pherexion, on Flickr Finally my tools are as organized as possible, a lot more productive not looking for that one wrench the whole time. IMAG1450 by pherexion, on Flickr Doing misc stuff while pulling the gearbox ... Decided to relocate the battery ground, Is there any problem running direct to the head? I'll probably run a strap to the block or starter, but this seems like a better place for the main ground. IMAG1455 by pherexion, on Flickr Found a leak at the oil pressure gauge, fixed ... IMAG1451 by pherexion, on Flickr Installing this tomorrow. I have an idea of where to fit it. Safety equipment, because racecar. IMAG1468 by pherexion, on Flickr Super coolguy JDM truck shifter, thanks to the idea from German AKA Akuzedmadex. Also catch can there. IMAG1446 by pherexion, on Flickr Also picked up my tires yesterday, started loading things for the skid pad this weekend! IMAG1445 by pherexion, on Flickr I need bumpers! I wanna tandem but I don't wanna tap those euro/JDM lights ... I'm thinking fiberglass ... something that I won't car if they break as long as the body is okay. That's it for tonight.