Stupid_fast

Aug 15th TDG west hosted by TD garage, $185 for thunderhill west. They're trying to get more grip drivers. I'll be there with my ZX. Event page is on facebook.

SCE gaskets make custom copper gasket w/ crush rings. No need to oring block with these. Put copper coat they don't leak. Give them a call. I got one for my L20b. It was $240. I had them make it 89mm bore for the crush ring to fit inside the U67 (because of valve reliefs.) Running turbo or what why do you need MLS? I don't think you need it.. Copper should be fine. If you want to go crazy NOS, or big turbo oring the block.

Yeah .. I've been through this system a few times already. Going to think of something clever for it.

Yeah... Not too bad. Ignition lock was ripped apart, battery was cut out, stereo was removed & cut out, they left a ton of trash everywhere and stole the misc junk I had in the storage bins ... meh. Runs fine so oh well. New battery and terminals and its fixed. Now to add security because there's just a switch to start it now ...

Police found it. Out of town sent my mom to tow it back home ... no idea whats missing.

When you increase pressure in a long pipe the other side pressurizes almost immediately. Long pipes probably have similar pressure loss characteristics to a big intercooler. Put bigger turbine lol. rear mounted setups work just fine. On an L16? do it.

@DADZSUN, No, its an aftermarket piece ... Should be able to find one from a racing shop.

Yup. Steam cleaned, and ready to put back in. Seats suck anyway so I don't mind it they get stained. Thanks guys ... Hope I get it back but I'm not very hopeful at this point. I may go cruise through concord see if its ditched somewhere. Waiting the 20 days but I need my own daily. Excuse to go car shopping I guess.

Thanks guys... Anyone saw it norcal area ?? Heard a tip from a Z owner just now older mexican guy driving it in Concord 9/3 around 5:30 heading up north. Easiest way to ID this car is the ebrake bracket being welded on, and no carpet.

Hi Ratsun... I still lurk here. D: been daily driving my ZX ... just got stolen. If anyone sees it ... call the cops!! STOLEN!!!!!! My zx!!! By request, more detailed description of my STOLEN 83 ZX NA->T STOLEN from Rockridge BART parking lot, Oakland CA. 9/3 Police report filed at 5pm. Plate ‪#‎6FNH900‬ Exterior! -Front wheels 14" NA-ZX 6-spoke -Rear wheels 15" American racing with fuzion tyres -windows have a dark tint on them -windsheild is severely cracked -top of left side front fender has some clear coat peeling -passenger door has some minor dents at the bottom -driver side hood vent has some weird oxidation looks like rust under paint... Interior -no carpet! -Grip royal woodie(cracked from drop!) with NRG 2.8 and momo hub -lower dash panels missing -center console cover missing -kenwood deck -center guages replaced with autometer temp/oil press/volt -digital dash -PBM drift knob on the ebrake -ebrake->tunnel bracket welded and primered over.(This would easily ID the chassis.) -driver side quarter interior panel missing -various rear panels removed -top mount part of the mirror is GRAY Stuff -1982 L28ET -aftermarket oil cooler -T5 -cut springs(1 coil) -no leaks! lol My car is kind of "unique". lol 10639531_677318372346080_3841392373720656455_n by pherexion, on Flickr

The whole point of a catch can is that its baffled. AKA oil-air separator. Catch can is a general aftermarket part. I'm sure you can find all the info you need on them on the many forums on the internet. :)

Run off same vacuum source as PCV. Tap all four runners to a vacuum block. Can run brake booster off that too. Right now I run open PCV and capped vac advance. But Its only used as a track car right now. I thought this was already clear? 02+ are NOT carburetors, they are throttle bodies for fuel injection.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system http://www.aa1car.com/library/pcv.htm Read. It makes a significant emissions reduction and keeps blowby crap out of your oil. Also if you have a vacuum block, you should be able to run vac advance successfully.

PCV is something I'm hoping to solve soon. Going to run a full catch can setup and functional PCV ... have to have a vacuum block pull off all four runners to do it properly.

the 240z is light enough 5k 4k is fine for street. all the drift coilovers run 8k 6k which is too stiff for a grip setup - usually its to make it easier to control while drifting. Gives fake impression of good handling by just being stiff. BC are OK street/ entry level. should be nice.

Got some single taper #6 mikuni needles to try out. will report back with results.

A quick search shows carbs only came on the 98-01 models.

You can run water through these carbs. Personally I live in California so its pointless the car never sees temperatures low enough to need it.

Parkinglotslider521, I have similar problems with mine(L20b, mild race cam, headers, big valves). What circlip setting are your needles at? 'stock motor'? ? L20b or ? All four of mine pour fuel in at idle. I don't know if its normal, just roll with it. Idle should be solid and only have 0.1-0.3 afr deviation with a big cam. You should have set your floats before you put the carbs in ... set to yamaha spec 6mm height. The wavering AFR kind of suggests either a passage is blocked or your needles are not the same. Main jet should be selected for high RPM 4000-6000rpm. Main jet/ top end mix must be 1-2 steps from perfect BEFORE touching anything else or you will never get it tuned right. Going lean at a certain RPM I think is due to the cam getting in its efficient range. Mine leans out a ton right at 3k during initial tuning. Needles should be mid position or slightly raised to select main jet. Aim for between 12:1 and 13:1 for N/A engine or however it pulls best. http://factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.html tip- Don't care about low end richness when selecting main jets. your low RPM will just be rich. Ignore it. Set main jet for high RPM mixture 4000RPM to redline you can worry about low end LATER. Also, if you post tits I won't be able to view this at work. ;)

Sounds about right. Thanks for the feedback, I'm planning on doing 8.8 and 4-link(or 3, maybe) on my wagon soon. Just getting impatient. :D

How is the handling with this setup? More predictable I'm assuming ?

Those mixtures look nice. agree cruise could use a little lean. top end and idle seem nice. Since you have a closed loop system try warming it up with the radiator cap off to bleed out any bubbles in the system. I know its strange, but it works. Make sure jiggle valve in the thermostat goes the right way around. I had an issue with autozone/oreilly ones they're all in backwards from the factory. I just cut them out usually. After those two things all my cooling problems were fixed on L series stuff. @Logical1, I wanna see a dyno graph of that DE when you're done. :)

Nice. Please post your tuning experience. curious what needles are in it. Both sets of my R1 carbs have 6-position for the needle adjust Are those aftermarket air horns specifically for an R1 ?

For baseline tune you shouldn't have to touch the pilots. i'm having issues with pilots I believe its due to having a cam with a lot of duration throwing off the vacuum. I will explain better how pilot tuning works once my setup is actually dialed in. My car has been sitting in storage lately.

Gas cap problems? :( Mine too... pep boys stant locking ones seem to work OK but they're a pain to line up right.