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yenpit

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Everything posted by yenpit

  1. Well said! ๐Ÿ˜Ž I simply don't like Trump as a person, but that arrogant loud mouthed SOB got some stuff DONE............and it seems as though most if not all of it was for We The People of America!
  2. I have been lurking here on this thread, I try to stay OUT of the political arena at all times, but I also have my opinions & beliefs. I do NOT watch any syndicated news or social media, other than Fox, but they are basically just as childish as the others. We watch mostly TBN & Daystar for any news, especially on this mess. We were watching "Ministry Now" on Daystar Christian TV last night.........OMG that Dr Simone Gold is one BOLD lady!! She was the doc, I think in LA last year, right after the Covid mess was started, that prescribed hydrochoriquin (sp?), spoke up about it & got fired. I don't know if you guys have posted anything here about her. She and a new group of other doctors, that see the light, are at www.americasfrontlinedoctors.org ............check out their latest video on the steps of the Capital! I have not looked at www.stopmedicaldiscrimination.org , but bet it is just as mindblowing. I really have counted on much of the content here in this thread, to shed some light on things...........thank you all! ๐Ÿ˜Ž
  3. .........not disagreeing with checking electrical issues like bad grounds, corrosion on terminals & bulb sockets etc, but you should install new HD flasher units regardless!
  4. Every Datsun we work on, we install new heavy duty electronic flasher units (not like original contact point style flasher) on both turnsignal & hazard. I think most 70's Datsun's used a 2 terminal flasher unit (again, on both t/s & haz). We use AutoZone's Novita brand part #EL12. If yours are 3 terminal, Novita does make one, but I don't have the part # for that one! These heavy duty flashers fix or improve every car we install them in! ๐Ÿ˜Ž
  5. Wow that looks like it fits nicely! ๐Ÿ˜Ž
  6. Yes, that is likely one of the most original 510's out there.............that is a factory color. I think the car is a 1972, so find a 1972 color chart for the Datsun's!
  7. I modified a 720 bench seat. The seat back is too wide, so we cut 3inches out of the middle, pie cut the corners, drew the side in to the center, welded all back up & custom upholstery. My truck already had the original seat rails cut off of the floor..................have not installed yet, but all looks good! The 620 seat is also too wide at the seat back. The 521 B pillar has a "squiggle" at halfway point, that rolls in & out.........that is where the 620 & 720 seats hit, thus you lose about 3++ inches cuz they won't slide all he way back! Find a 521 seat or modify!
  8. There is a guy near Colorado Springs with two rolling shells that I was going to go look at...just too freakin' COLD to do anything! Temps are supposed to go up this week, but I can't commit to any road trips yet. PM me if shipping a rolling shell OR just a cab from here works for you. TJ
  9. yenpit

    Motor swap

    Agree.........KA24DE twin cam out of a USA-spec 1991-1998 240SX. Lots of people use the Can Am box, but we have used the Wiring Specialties KA engine harnesses in a couple 510 swaps.................NOT cheap, but plug & play simple! I think I saw the guy that makes the engine mounting bracket kits "like" this post...........maybe ]2eDeYe??
  10. yenpit

    Motor swap

    Outside of the L series family, the most common swaps today, are likely the 1991-1998 USA-spec Nissan 240SX KA24DE twin cam naturally aspirated & the 1992-up (??) JDM-spec SR20DET twin cam turbo. You CAN turbo a KA24DE, allowing I think up to 6-8psi on a stock engine, but adding a turbo is not necessarily cheap & requires fab work. There is somebody here on Ratsun that makes engine mount bracket kits, I think for either option. Beyond those two, there are LOTS of other option, mostly governed by your budget & your fabrication skills. Pretty much ANY swap (other than the L series family) will require some fabrication. If you don't have fab skills, stick to an L series...........like datzenmike points out, the 75-80 L20B is likely your best option! I am moving slowly at installing a 1980 L20B & 5speed manual in my 1972 521. Was a 77k mile wrecked rusty 1980 720 donor, so clean up, reseal & stuff it in...........fingers crossed it runs out well! Being an automatic, if you are considering swapping to a manual trans, most of the parts to swap to manual are bolt in, so relatively straight forward!
  11. Yup, Datsun 521 620 510 & Zcar prices have gone up up UP! Getting real hard to find cheap any more. Be patient, keep looking under the carpet, behind houses/buildings, ask around etc..........once they are LISTED for sale, if they are cheap, they are GONE. Otherwise, the higher pricing means the seller is aware of the escalating values...........๐Ÿฅด Good luck!
  12. Nice! Again, we really liked his Z car panels! Interesting on the rockers! Did you spot that difference or did Gerson tell you?
  13. I think the 620 upper seat back CORNERS are wider than the 521, thus the seat will not slide all the way back, it will hit the "swiggle" of the 521 B pillar on both sides. I just took a 720 seat, cut 3 inches out of the center of the top tube, pie cut the upper corners & lower tubes, drew the sides together in the center (thus spreading the pie cuts open a l'il), re-welded it all together & had custom upholstery done. I have NOT installed yet, but by narrowing the upper seat back, I'm hoping it will fit in between the B pillar & slide all the way back! TJ
  14. The plastic "clips" are kinda a one use only, typically just cut them to REMOVE the rods, but you can go to AutoZone etc, buy a small misc pack of those clips & find at least one that will work just fine. I should have that rod. Will send a text from area code 269............I'm just in Colorado! TJ
  15. Think it was 68-69 short, 70-72 mid, then 73 only tall for the raised bumper ride height. The short MIGHT be a 68-69 & the tall might be the 73.........those two are noticeably different, so I doubt either one is a 70-72...............๐Ÿ™„ You might be better off buying a matched pair of strut tubes..............pretty sure I have all three versions. I also have a pair of complete 280ZX (NOT the 70-78 Z car!) strut assemblies with brakes, but not cheap anymore & VERY heavy to ship.........but I can! PM me if interested! TJ
  16. Soak fuse box & switches & relays (open them up) in plain old white vinegar for a few days, then clean, regrease switches where necessary, check ALL grounds etc. Replace both turnsignal & hazard flashers with heavy duty ELECTRONIC flasher units, not the original "point style". If 2 terminal, AutoZone "Novita" brand part #EL12 for both. Sorry, don't have the part # if 3 terminal, but Novita does offer! Chasing electrical gremlins sucks!! ๐Ÿ˜ฃ
  17. Cool, so all I need to pull are the two pedals & whatever hardware is associated with them? I sell the 510 & 620 pedal sets all the time, usually don't send the pedal box!
  18. The 68-73 510 pedal box is the same for the manual & automatic, which means we do NOT need to swap out the pedal box........the clutch pedal pivot is in all of the cars. Is this the same for the 720? I am stripping out a 1980, figured there might be a demand for brake & clutch pedals for an auto to manual swap!
  19. You can see if there is a "boss" or a hole like crashtd420 stated, or just weld a captive nut/plate in. My 1972 521 has a captive nut up there. The 510 Sedan's have a captive nut up there at the headliner, but they are too high up, especially for a shorter stature person like me! We have lowered that captive nut & welded in place. There was a 510 guy here or on the510realm, that bought a "plate" with a captive nut from one of the seatbelt suppliers, lowered it down the B pillar on a string to the hole, captured the plate with the bolt, & riveted it in place. Then remove the bolt & install the buckle/loop. Being a "plate" behind the sheetmetal gives much more rigid mounting , which truly is necessary if involved in an accident! Personally I think old used belts are a waste, cuz so many are grungy & full of dirt/dust, don't operate correctly! Go to seatbeltplanet or another company that sells universal fit belts. My guess is you will want a FLOOR MOUNT retractor, where the belt pulls UP out of the unit, loops thru a buckle up the B pillar where you decide to mount it, then back down to triangulate across your chest & lap (just like any current car!) to the latch mechanism in the middle of the seat. Hope that helps guide!
  20. They will fit both 2dr & 4dr, as the wheelbase is the same. I do not know why there would be a different OEM part #............?? TJ
  21. I have a box of misc 510 seatbelt hardware........what are these for?
  22. I have a damaged FrigiKing unit for a 620. Did some research on a couple aftermarket AC parts suppliers, one being vintageair, they have new knobs that should fit. They do NOT list Da tsun, but I have found that all of these Datsun dealer installed kits were simply universal fit parts from suppliers here in the USA, the only parts that were made to application were the thin plastic air plenums!
  23. Is it the SINGLE mounting screw style? I might have one. The Sedans ie 510's had 3 screw mounting. TJ
  24. I have also read the if the front bellhousing has been swapped/replaced, there are at least two different positions for the reverse switch.......the internal shift shaft matches the bellhousing, so if you swap a bellhousing, the switch position might not match the shift shaft โ€œdetentโ€!! Pull the switch, look into the hole, have somebody move the shift lever in & out of reverse, look for the โ€œdetentโ€ in the shift shaft. No detent, thatโ€™s yer issue! ๐Ÿ˜ฌ๐Ÿค”
  25. Hmmmmmm not to say internal parts won't wear, but think it's pretty rare! Is the reverse switch NEW? They are typical cheap Datsun switches, which do wear out, get gummed up inside etc etc. If the switch is a simple "plunger/pin style", pretty sure there is simply a "divet" in the internal shift shaft that "trips" the plunger/pin as the shaft slides the gear into place, thus turning the reverse lights on. Pull it out of gear, the switch turns off. My guess is electrical, not mechanical............ When converting an automatic 510 to manual, the auto wiring harness does not have a separate reverse light switch wiring, as the reverse light switching was part of the neutral safety switch. That said, you have to wire up a reverse light switch circuit to make it work. Funny, I don't even know if they offered an automatic 521...............they did with the 620!
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