New Truck - '71 521

[andyZ00m]

1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

with the 35amper I adjust the idle and speed screw with the lights on as you putting a load on it.

 

Can you explain? Im showing my inexperience here, I know how to adjust the idle but what about speed? Same screw?

 

Found this coil from 78 on rock auto

Edited November 19, 2023 by andyZ00m

[banzai510(hainz)]

Mixture is at the base of the carb with the tension screw(spring on there)

you adjust this IN/OUT for best running

then you adjust the speed screw at or near the throttle cable. its just a screw that turns the carb plate a little.

adjust the timing also while your at it.

 

as for the distributor its all on PAGE 4 if you got this distributor, then youll need the GM module also.  and the 78 coil also. Let us know if that coil Made in Japan. 21 $ is a great price and just as good as the MSD coil if not better

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=28196&cc=1210004&pt=7108&jsn=88329&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7WSpUmUSdg3OxWOs2f5z9h422EONy36O0PjCuaadDqI1r86y%2FvJ1lBqxeBNhI9mMX8H1x0fHFzmF%2BKG7YKD8h756k3BtrsE6fARMKaXNp7eQFiprUry%2F3aNaQKjQsmXoMDilrLCMYgOIsMiuO7dm4JKqdyjUkyeP2%2BAdcGeIGDWdnvUJS57KpDqkxS2PnBx4VLe%2BJvDOTgUWyvIldRhw6e0PR6dxwuQc7HnsW9g6ufaiTA9Dnerwr8d96LgWK0UENIdIjqztDS%2BMnc9n5EHcgYOURTNSPA%2F1BRwgkjSo6QyrcjUjukoHZ37CiYxvtBbNrUuEoD%2B6GrpAR

 

Edited November 19, 2023 by banzai510(hainz)

[andyZ00m]

10 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Mixture is at the base of the carb with the tension screw(spring on there)

you adjust this IN/OUT for best running

then you adjust the speed screw at or near the throttle cable. its just a screw that turns the carb plate a little.

adjust the timing also while your at it.

 

as for the distributor its all on PAGE 4 if you got this distributor, then youll need the GM module also.  and the 78 coil also. Let us know if that coil Made in Japan. 21 $ is a great price and just as good as the MSD coil if not better

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=28196&cc=1210004&pt=7108&jsn=88329&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7WSpUmUSdg3OxWOs2f5z9h422EONy36O0PjCuaadDqI1r86y%2FvJ1lBqxeBNhI9mMX8H1x0fHFzmF%2BKG7YKD8h756k3BtrsE6fARMKaXNp7eQFiprUry%2F3aNaQKjQsmXoMDilrLCMYgOIsMiuO7dm4JKqdyjUkyeP2%2BAdcGeIGDWdnvUJS57KpDqkxS2PnBx4VLe%2BJvDOTgUWyvIldRhw6e0PR6dxwuQc7HnsW9g6ufaiTA9Dnerwr8d96LgWK0UENIdIjqztDS%2BMnc9n5EHcgYOURTNSPA%2F1BRwgkjSo6QyrcjUjukoHZ37CiYxvtBbNrUuEoD%2B6GrpAR

 

 

Yeah, I grabbed a GM ignitor for 10$ and this NGK coil is made in Japan!

 

Now I just need to figure out the timing plate and mount.

 

Not a lot on poopbay, found this one but seems excessively expensive.. There is a pick and pull about 5 miles form here. Might try that.

 

 

[andyZ00m]

Did an oil change today. Had nearly 6 quarts of black tar in there. Went with Rotel 15-40 and whatever high end K&M filter.

 

On Hainz suggestion, adjusted the idle and speed. When I had the air filter off, the air pump is making some noise that doesnt sound right but maybe I dont know what Im hearing. Engine seems much happier and is driving very nicely.

 

Heres some photos after getting it up on ramps. Some grime and ancient bushings but overall in pretty good shape for sitting in a garage for 20-30 years.

 

No leak after oil change. Photos were before oil change and some scrubbing.

 

Edited November 20, 2023 by andyZ00m

[banzai510(hainz)]

521 needs to be greased all the time. the front end kingpins ,steering.

[datzenmike]

6 quarts? Maybe you are kidding?? If even close it's unlikely someone over filled but you may have a leaking fuel pump or a flooding carburetor? Choke stuck on?? Does the oil smell of gas?

[datzenmike]

 

My 620 looked like this. The 'rubber' on the ball joints wee dissolved looking. They pulled apart like they were made of tar. Something in the grease or maybe oil from the engine softened them.

 

 

These rubber bushings allow an up or down movement of the lower control arm but also almost no forward and back movement but mostly vibration insulation. The tension rod is the hypotenuse in a right angle formed by the lower control arm and the frame. When the brakes are applied the front wheel if under force to move to the rear. The tension rod prevents this. If the bushings are worn or soft the rigidity fails and the wheel toes out pulling the vehicle to that side. If replacing use rubber as it flexes, poly are not a good idea.

 

About the only place I would use poly is here...

 

[andyZ00m]

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

6 quarts? Maybe you are kidding?? If even close it's unlikely someone over filled but you may have a leaking fuel pump or a flooding carburetor? Choke stuck on?? Does the oil smell of gas?

 

Not kidding. Its probably 5.3 QTs (Gallon new oil jug, one QT of gatorade, and a 60% filles 20 oz bottle). It does smell a bit like gas, yeah. Choke is not stuck on. I dont think the carb is flooding but how to test? How to test for leaking fuel pump?

 

 

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

My 620 looked like this. The 'rubber' on the ball joints wee dissolved looking. They pulled apart like they were made of tar. Something in the grease or maybe oil from the engine softened them.

 

I'll clean the grease up on these and see if the rubber is blasted or not.

 

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

These rubber bushings allow an up or down movement of the lower control arm but also almost no forward and back movement but mostly vibration insulation. The tension rod is the hypotenuse in a right angle formed by the lower control arm and the frame. When the brakes are applied the front wheel if under force to move to the rear. The tension rod prevents this. If the bushings are worn or soft the rigidity fails and the wheel toes out pulling the vehicle to that side. If replacing use rubber as it flexes, poly are not a good idea.

 

Ive been looking for replacements for these. Any idea where to get or is it as simple as finding something that fits?

 

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

About the only place I would use poly is here...

 

Same here, any link or recommendation for these?

 

Thanks for the help!

 

 

[andyZ00m]

Here's a video of the air pump sound I was noticing when I had the air filter off to adjust the carburetor.

 

https://imgur.com/a/fxDEXC2

Edited November 20, 2023 by andyZ00m

[andyZ00m]

AND some more fun stuff! Coolant leak coming from what appears to be the connection to the heater core. Hadnt noticed this before. Maybe it wasnt there before.

 

Not a lot but def want to fix this. Might just be new hoses but the hose doesnt feel wet on the bottom near wear it goes through the firewall.

 

[NC85ST]

You said it’s been sitting for 20-30 years? If you haven’t replaced the fuel pump and the oil smells of gasoline, it’s most likely the fuel pump bad. If you have driven it since you changed the oil, pull the dipstick and see if you smell gasoline.

[banzai510(hainz)]

521 hoses are hard to get now.

there is a toyota replacement I think soemone posted the number. you cut out the section that matches

 

 

be carfull pulling thqt hose off. I yank on mine and it broke the whole end off the heater core

Edited November 20, 2023 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

If replacing the hose, slit them lengthwise with a knife and peel it off.

[andyZ00m]

34 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

521 hoses are hard to get now.

there is a toyota replacement I think soemone posted the number. you cut out the section that matches

 

 

be carfull pulling thqt hose off. I yank on mine and it broke the whole end off the heater core

 

What about this stuff? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=347054&cc=1212321&pt=6892&jsn=8132 The hoses are def super old.

 

2 hours ago, NC85ST said:

You said it’s been sitting for 20-30 years? If you haven’t replaced the fuel pump and the oil smells of gasoline, it’s most likely the fuel pump bad. If you have driven it since you changed the oil, pull the dipstick and see if you smell gasoline.

 

Parts showing up tomorrow. Going to replace fuel lines, fuel filter and fuel pump. I did drive it around the block after the oil change yes but the oil doesnt smell a lot like gas, maybe didnt drive it long enough to leak enough.

 

Anyone watch the video? I dont know if the air pump is doing its job properly but it sounds weird to me.

[mainer311]

Here’s the solution for the heater hoses:

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

yes that it for the longer one 18475 Gates.

The shorter S hose I dont know myself. what the sub is. the 510 one is close but actually the 521 is less diameter. Or this is the shorter one I forget.

 

if your oil lever get higher then worry about if gas is in there and smell it.  I have never had it happen for 4 Datsuns I have had. but the diaphrame could push gas in to the crank case if hole in diaprame.  ebay still has the the koyosan stock pumps out there. same as datsun 510. the inlet outlet in correct spot

 

I really hope you dont just keep changing stuff  with inforior Chinese made and it gets worse!!!!!!!!!

Edited November 21, 2023 by banzai510(hainz)

[andyZ00m]

22 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

yes that it for the longer one 18475 Gates.

The shorter S hose I dont know myself. what the sub is. the 510 one is close but actually the 521 is less diameter. Or this is the shorter one I forget.

 

if your oil lever get higher then worry about if gas is in there and smell it.  I have never had it happen for 4 Datsuns I have had. but the diaphrame could push gas in to the crank case if hole in diaprame.  ebay still has the the koyosan stock pumps out there. same as datsun 510. the inlet outlet in correct spot

 

I really hope you dont just keep changing stuff  with inforior Chinese made and it gets worse!!!!!!!!!

 

Indeed! Learned my lesson with the alternator... Appreciate the advice and help! Im learning!

[mainer311]

15 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

yes that it for the longer one 18475 Gates.

The shorter S hose I dont know myself. what the sub is. the 510 one is close but actually the 521 is less diameter. Or this is the shorter one I forget.

 

It's for both.

[andyZ00m]

Update: Brake adventure! Right front brake was definitely fucked up, it needs a bunch more work but started on the left front as it was in decent shape.

 

Some tricks I learned, to put the shoes on (and pull them off), you put both springs on from the back and then fold it like a sandwich and push them forward to seat them in the slots. Took me a bit to figure this out. Also, removing the old wheel cylinder was insane. Took some serious hammering.

 

Took everything apart, cleaned and replaced everything only to find these new wheel cylinders have a little flange on the bottom where it meets the wheel back plate that causes the shoe not to seat in the slot of the cylinder all the way. It also makes the shoe spring to pull the shoe forward.

 

Tomorrow I plan to pull it apart again and use an angle grinder to take the 3-5 mm off that it needs to seat the show properly. Kinda annoying. Anyone else have this issue?

 

Bled the lines out anyway and no leaks with the new hose, fluid was nasty.

 

Tomorrow, grind and put back together, and then deal with front right.

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I found soem NOS japan wheels cylinders. just cause the newer chinese stuff has this issue

[andyZ00m]

14 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I found soem NOS japan wheels cylinders. just cause the newer chinese stuff has this issue

 

Nice, where did you find them?

 

I tried to find original parts but seemed like there was only the Raybestos (Italian which is what I bought) and the Beck/Arnley.

 

The ones on the truck before were cheap cast parts and these Raybestos a nice forged parts, just need a slight modification... Annoying though.

[Slow Loris]

I think I lost most of my hearing and gained most of my muscle mass from hammering the wheel cylinders off my 521. That is quite an experience indeed.

 

I initially bought the Raybestos wheel cylinders but had one spring a leak so I changed to Centric which appeared briefly on Rockauto, but who the hell knows what your experience will be, like Hainz says always better off with the real shit if you can find it. 
 

My tactic is I often go with the cheap stuff to get me going as a means to troubleshoot bigger picture problems and then keep an eye out and bite the bullet later on for the good stuff as it does appear online off and on it seems (I’m only one year into 521-ship but seems to be true).

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

12 hours ago, andyZ00m said:

 

Nice, where did you find them?

 

I tried to find original parts but seemed like there was only the Raybestos (Italian which is what I bought) and the Beck/Arnley.

 

The ones on the truck before were cheap cast parts and these Raybestos a nice forged parts, just need a slight modification... Annoying though.

This is what happens when the OEM supply dries up, but there is still a demand. The aftermarket starts making parts that may or may not be of equal quality. Sometimes, the OEM supplier will jump in and resume production (like what Toyota has done with LC parts lately) and other times, the OEM designs and manufacturing are purchased by an aftermarket company (like what IPD did with vintage Volvo parts). It seems nobody is interested in making super high quality Datsun replacement parts yet. Maybe eventually? Probably not. We're on our own from here.

 

The lesson here is - Never get rid of original parts. They can be rebuilt. No matter what the part is, it can be fixed.

[datzenmike]

Usually it's one part on an assembly that goes bad and drags the whole thing thing down.

 

Starter will still have a good solenoid on it, or if the solenoid is toast the rest of the starter is good.

 

Carburetors always have parts that are good on them.

 

 

[andyZ00m]

Got both front brakes done today. the part that looked like it needed to be grinded down was simply because the dingus before me had put the shoes on backwards. Got everything in the right place and adjusted them properly. Bled the lines but did it poorly as the brakes as SUPER squishy and dont stop very well.

 

Got a buddy with a brake bleeder not a hose and a beer bottle and hes gunna come help me after turkey day.

 

One thing about the brake adjustment, in the manual it says to move the adjustment cover "forwards" to reveal the adjuster wheel. On my truck, both front wheels have the wheel on the front, as in you need to move the adjuster back to reveal the wheel. Either Im not understanding it correctly or someone swapped the wheel back plates on my truck so they are backwards.

 

In adjusting, it seems like its a function of both the wheel adjuster and the position of the adjuster front and back to make the shoe sit properly. Not sure what im doing right or wrong accept the lines are not bled properly by a dad and a 6 year old on the brake pedal (clearly lots of air in the lines).

 

Gunna bleed the lines properly and then try adjusting again.

 

Edited November 23, 2023 by andyZ00m