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New Truck - '71 521


andyZ00m

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3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

told ya!!!!!

 

Crashed I never seen that part listed before good to know.

however L16 blocks are 2 bolts in the block  and use the smaller bolts unless it generic and fits 2 AND 3 BOLT ENGINE BLOCKS

 

zcardepot is a great one stop shop site

 

You sure did! Easy peezy.

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Alright, todays adventure was replacing alternator and cleaning and restoring fuse bock, new battery and attempting to source battery cables.

 

Got the new alternator and parts but was having trouble finding the right battery cables. Specifically, the + lead has the fusible link and goes to starter, and ground lead has a secondary lead from the engine block to the alternator ground. This cable I will need to make custom as I cant find a shop tht has something. Rock auto has parts but not the right thing.

 

I used the original cables for now as they work and they will be replaced next weekend.

 

Another challenge was the belt for the fan/alt, the part as spec was too short for the new alternator and also the shape of the V ate up some length versus the stock part. Had to get an extra inch belt to clear the new alternator from the block and still have play to tension the belt properly.

 

Cleaned and sanded all electrical contacts, degreased and deoxit everything electrical all the cables. Soaked fuse block and scrubbed/sanded the leads for the output and input.

 

Once new parts were installed and fuse block reassembled, the alternator is putting out about 13.8+VDC @ 1100 RPM with full lights on (choke about 60%) and all the electrical is working (accept the work light inside the engine compartment, need to chase that fucker down).

 

Heres some photos!

 

QbRZ9Qx.jpgg0zbMxI.jpgTVABEwW.jpgQlXUHlG.jpgkwT3Gc6.jpgoHYW7r7.jpg

 

https://imgur.com/S23U3FE

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I usually get a battery cable like this, but of coarse it will be shorter. short as possible. O rileys has a assorment of sizes. + side cable to the fire wall.  then use that extra wire off the lead clamp side to the fuse box. Youll have to extensd that.  I think I made or put a male/ female splice so I can take it off. I have to look.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/super-start/battery---accessories/battery-cable/97f343b1aaa1/super-start-4-gauge-72-inch-battery-post-cable/ss01/08499?pos=5

 

the neg side battery cable  just went to the head and thats it.(that lifting fixture)

 

there is a small black wire that goes to the alternator case. 8mm srew/bolt

 

Might be good to add a ground wire from motor to the body.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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31 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I think thats a Chinese alternator.

I had to squeez the bushing one way to fit the 521. if a 510 would fit fine or viseversa  on the back ear of the alternator.  I used a vice and big socket

I got 2 of those alts as one died already.

 

get the rig lighter volt meter !

 

I dont have a cig lighter in this thing (optional equipment!!) It def is a chinese alternator

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my 621 had a cig lighter.

with these junk alternator you need to monitor the output. cause by the time the IGN light comes ON your trying to find a way home.

 

soon as I suspect something ike a low output with Lights On or somethinglike that I drive home on the battery as Im not to far from home with in 20miles. with NO lights on should be able to make it home

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1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

my 621 had a cig lighter.

with these junk alternator you need to monitor the output. cause by the time the IGN light comes ON your trying to find a way home.

 

soon as I suspect something ike a low output with Lights On or somethinglike that I drive home on the battery as Im not to far from home with in 20miles. with NO lights on should be able to make it home

 

When I bought it, I drove this thing home over a long mountain pass at 55mph with a buddy following me not knowing that this alternator wasnt charging the battery. I imagine that I would have been real sad if the battery had finally pooped during that adventure.

 

Found one of rock auto says new Hitachi. 88$ maybe should have got this guy.

 

Easy enough to check with a multimeter every couple weeks and make sure its still doing its job.

Edited by andyZ00m
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The ground goes to the head which grounds the block and the transmission so that takes care of the starter. For everything else on the body, (specially the voltage regulator) they need a return to ground so run a thick wire from anywhere on the block to the sheet metal. NOT the frame! it's isolated by rubber mounts (leaf springs, shocks, mounts) from the actual body.

 

 

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1 hour ago, andyZ00m said:

That will probably work...

I think the el12 was a suggested one from someone....

I actually recommend the adjustable flasher units.... if you ever change to leds you can easily adjust the flash rate....

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Yup that is the remote igniter EI distributor. Nothing wrong with it and is the same as the matchbox but the remote igniter box isn't miniaturized and would be mounted under the dash. Still you can substitute an HEI module from an old GM distributor and buy an EI coil from a '78-'80 620 or S10 200sx.

 

InDpDXk.jpg

 

Just ignore the 1.6 ohm coil rating. You need the 0.75-1.0 ohm EI coil to go with this for the high output spark.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.2312d9762060e8d7d1f622bc050e7da2.jpeg

 

 

image.png

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8 hours ago, andyZ00m said:

Also, on rock auto they have reman distributor from later models but this doesnt look like the matchbox.

 


I bought the Cardone reman you speak of and I can confirm that it works great but I have put very few hours of use into it. Actually it breathed new life into my truck but that is more a comment on my old distributor than anything else. 

 

Found the generic HEI module on Amazon and off I went. Very easy to set up. I had scrounged my local junkyard for distributors previously and only ended up with various pedestals and no dizzys but it meant I didn’t have to “rig” anything.

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1 hour ago, andyZ00m said:

Look at this mofo! 500$ reman matchbox!! Crazytown! EDIT: This is for a 6 cyl. Not even the right thing.

 

After doing some deep searching, might be cheapest and best to find a reman single point dizzy and get the pertronix. 

 

That vacuum advance looks exactly like the one you see on Z24 Cardone units! 500 bucks for a Cardone reman is indeed a bit crazy!

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5 hours ago, andyZ00m said:

Look at this mofo! 500$ reman matchbox!! Crazytown! EDIT: This is for a 6 cyl. Not even the right thing.

 

After doing some deep searching, might be cheapest and best to find a reman single point dizzy and get the pertronix. 

 

You'd be better off with the one you posted from rock auto..... 

The mounting plate is easily fixed... 

 

The pertronix is really only designed to eliminate adjusting points... it's not designed to give a hotter spark....

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7 hours ago, andyZ00m said:

Look at this mofo! 500$ reman matchbox!! Crazytown! EDIT: This is for a 6 cyl. Not even the right thing.

 

After doing some deep searching, might be cheapest and best to find a reman single point dizzy and get the pertronix. 

 

 

No, the distributor is 4 cylinder but the cap beside it is 6.

 

$500 is crazy amount. This ain't Kameari.  

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2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

You'd be better off with the one you posted from rock auto..... 

The mounting plate is easily fixed... 

 

The pertronix is really only designed to eliminate adjusting points... it's not designed to give a hotter spark....

What is needed to rig this one or alter the mounting plate? It sounds like I’m going to need the remote igniter and a different coil. 
 

gunna do some research on this today. 
 

got a giant box of stuff to redo all the brakes (drums, shoes, cylinders, lines, etc) as well as new gaskets for oil pan and valve cover, LED light for the flashers (got an LES compatible flasher) and new sparks plugs and wires. Gunna try and reduce the oil leak if I can. The previous owner was a dingus he didn’t change the oil, he added oil (it overfilled). 

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2 hours ago, andyZ00m said:

What is needed to rig this one or alter the mounting plate? It sounds like I’m going to need the remote igniter and a different coil. 

Yes you'll need the remote ignitor and lower Impedance coil..  but i bet you could run the one you have for the moment.....

As for the plate take a look at the differences.... you need to see what your pedestal vs the distributor look like.... 

 

Screenshot_20231114-113020_DuckDuckGo.thumb.jpg.512dfcba11cb05ad55bd2fee77b5d7a7.jpg

 

Usually it's just a matter of reslotting so the bolts go in and you still have the ability to adjust the timming....

Probably easy enough to make if needed.... 

Edited by Crashtd420
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