New Truck - '71 521

[andyZ00m]

1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

Yes you'll need the remote ignitor and lower Impedance coil..  but i bet you could run the one you have for the moment.....

As for the plate take a look at the differences.... you need to see what your pedestal vs the distributor look like.... 

 

 

Usually it's just a matter of reslotting so the bolts go in and you still have the ability to adjust the timming....

Probably easy enough to make if needed.... 

I see! Thanks for the detail. Lemme get in there and see what I have. I'll take some photos.

[andyZ00m]

Updates:

 

Started getting parts for brakes and fluid service. I have a feeling differential and transmission haven’t had the fluid changed in forever. 
 

Put some halogen lights in there, cleaned up the chrome housing and grill and and reset the lights. Work really well. 
 

got some new weather stripping for the window run as the felt junk in there was powdered. 
 

strapped down my battery as I drove it once without strapping it down and the damn thing was about 3 mm away from falling into the engine bay and wedging itself against the valve cover. Yikes!! (I think Mike warned me against this..)
 

got a new valve cover gasket and was considering powder coating the valve cover and air filter housing to match the original paint. Any reason not to do this? 

Got new plugs and wires for when I do the dizzy once I figure out the plan there. 
 

Got a new oil pan gasket as there is def a small leak there now. I cleaned everything up and the leaks are in the valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket. Looks like the frame cross bar is in the way of removing the oil pan… 

 

found an LED compatible flasher unit and some LEDs for turn signals and corner lights. 
 

after cleaning and restoring the fuse block, electrical is totally solid. Everything works. Another question: the heater core is on all the time. The little “heater switch” is spinning without grabbing and the set screw is missing. I can’t seem to get it off the shaft. I have a million knobs for audio gear I could use to replace it but I can’t get the dang thing off even with some serious physical persuasion. 
 

more updates this weekend when I put her on jacks and do all the brakes, cylinders and tubes. 

Edited November 17, 2023 by andyZ00m

[banzai510(hainz)]

43 minutes ago, andyZ00m said:

the heater core is on all the time.

41 minutes ago, andyZ00m said:

halogen lights?

You mean like H4 bulb type Lamps? 55 60 watts. Best to get a H4 harness as the stock Datsun one will wear the wires out and switches.

 

43 minutes ago, andyZ00m said:

the heater core is on all the time.

 

Mine is also. I just vent the flap on mine but if hot day Im sure the resedual still get in.

45 minutes ago, andyZ00m said:

Got a new oil pan gasket as there is def a small leak there now.

You sure that it. I had a oil sender go bad and that was my leak after ZI swap a pan gasket.

I loosened up the engine bolts then jacked the trans up to get me  a few inches. slide it in there but was a pain to get past the oil pick up tube.  I just park the 521 in gravel.

[andyZ00m]

1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I just park the 521 in gravel.

 

HA! Im not 100% sure but it seems like it is. Knowing that its such a shitshow to get the pan out, I may wait on that gasket if/until I rebuild the motor or have another reason to do it.

[andyZ00m]

3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

ou mean like H4 bulb type Lamps? 55 60 watts. Best to get a H4 harness as the stock Datsun one will wear the wires out and switches.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=319003&cc=1212321&pt=11701&jsn=3904

[Crashtd420]

5 hours ago, andyZ00m said:

 

HA! Im not 100% sure but it seems like it is. Knowing that its such a shitshow to get the pan out, I may wait on that gasket if/until I rebuild the motor or have another reason to do it.

It's not that bad.... 

4 bolts removed the crossmember....

Disconnect the steering crossrod...

Probably easiest to pop the tie rods at the end and remove as a unit.... then alignment stays the same.... loosen the retaining nut and strike the side of the metal , not the tie rod, to pop it loose.... other ways can damage the rubber.....

[Crashtd420]

5 hours ago, andyZ00m said:

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=319003&cc=1212321&pt=11701&jsn=3904

I think you are fine.... that looks like a stock replacement....

Haines was referring to the upgraded ones with the replaceable bulb not the whole assembly...

[Crashtd420]

Oh on the heater core the little valve gets stuck inside.....

You have to remove it from the inside by using a small dowel and gently tapping it from the inside out.... 

I believe it's the oring that dries up and gets bound.....

 

Fyi I have a bag of o ring specifically for that repair.... needs 1 and 1 got 25 or 50 can't remember..... they are ment for oils and coolant....

I also got some flat o rings that didn't fit but they work great on the drain valve for the radiator.....

I'll gladly send you a couple, only costs me a stamp....

 

[andyZ00m]

4 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

Oh on the heater core the little valve gets stuck inside.....

You have to remove it from the inside by using a small dowel and gently tapping it from the inside out.... 

I believe it's the oring that dries up and gets bound.....

 

Fyi I have a bag of o ring specifically for that repair.... needs 1 and 1 got 25 or 50 can't remember..... they are ment for oils and coolant....

I also got some flat o rings that didn't fit but they work great on the drain valve for the radiator.....

I'll gladly send you a couple, only costs me a stamp....

 

Amazing! I would def take a couple if you’re willing. 

[Crashtd420]

7 minutes ago, andyZ00m said:

Amazing! I would def take a couple if you’re willing. 

Send me a private message with your information and I'll send you a couple this weekend.....

 

That goes for anyone that might need one for their 521 heater valve....

[Crashtd420]

These are those door clips I mentioned....

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=319003&cc=1212321&pt=11701&jsn=3904

 

thats just the stock "SEALED BEAM" high beam lamps. type where you replace the whole unit.

[andyZ00m]

21 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=319003&cc=1212321&pt=11701&jsn=3904

 

thats just the stock "SEALED BEAM" high beam lamps. type where you replace the whole unit.

 

Yeah, the old ones were super low output and tired. These are way brighter and better beam control.

 

I really need to get a distributor figured out for this thing. Or I just need to replace the points, rotor and cap. Its BARELY hangin on... the little leads on the breakers themselves are like two strands haha.

[andyZ00m]

Here are some shitty photos of the timing plate and mount. I can get in there a bit better tomorrow. Its raining right now.

 

BTW, when raining, if you pop the hood, it dumps a ton of water right into the fuse block. Like actually into it. There are many awesome design elements in this vehicle but thats not one of them!

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Looks like standard L16 dist point set up.

[andyZ00m]

22 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Looks like standard L16 dist point set up.

Makes sense. This thing is bone stock. 

[datzenmike]

Stock sealed beams were tungsten filament. Halogen will draw more power.  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You can install H4 conversions with standard watt bulbs without too much worry., but adding a relay system will give you more power and will keep the smoke in the old wires.

[andyZ00m]

I'm going to go with the '78 replacement Cardone non HEI and this HEI ignitor

 

Mike mentioned I would need to go with a lower impedance coil with this set up. I assume this means I dont need the ballast resistor?

 

[andyZ00m]

Here is the clip remaining on the passenger side door. I’m realizing this car was repainted at some point. 

makes a terrible popping sound when I crosses the tension point. 

 

Edited November 18, 2023 by andyZ00m

[andyZ00m]

Had to make a negative battery lead to the block with the little ground lead to the alternator. Had to bust out the big Betty soldering iron (I usually only use it for chassis ground in guitar amps) and melted solder inside the giant crimp fitting. 
 

worked great! 

[datzenmike]

7 hours ago, andyZ00m said:

I'm going to go with the '78 replacement Cardone non HEI and this HEI ignitor

 

Mike mentioned I would need to go with a lower impedance coil with this set up. I assume this means I dont need the ballast resistor?

 

 

Non HEI? Non points perhaps.

 

The '78 WAS an EI it was just called a remote igniter. The HEI unit will work with the remote igniter EI and will work with the matchbox EI if that module failed also. Just making sure the Cardone distributor isn't points.

[andyZ00m]

36 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

Non HEI? Non points perhaps.

 

The '78 WAS an EI it was just called a remote igniter. The HEI unit will work with the remote igniter EI and will work with the matchbox EI if that module failed also. Just making sure the Cardone distributor isn't points.

 

Yeah! Sorry I’m a dingus, it’s Electronic Ignition but needs the external igniter. 
 

Also, my Chinese 35A alternator is already showing its limitations, with the new lights, I can hear a clear difference in the idle and while driving when the lights are on… 

 

Seems like maybe I need to go bigger, I really like lights that… light up. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

1 hour ago, andyZ00m said:

negative battery lead to the block with the little ground lead to the alternator.

I would have made that black also.!!!!!!!!

 

with the 35amper I adjust the idle and speed screw with the lights on as you putting a load on it.

 

 

you can still run the ballast and the stock coil if you like but wont give the higher spark potential.  DO not cut out the START(hot start wire in case you go back or want to use a Pertronix.

If you bypass just get a 78 year coil

 

 

just to let you know the L16timing plate and mount will not fit that Codone distributor

[andyZ00m]

21 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I would have made that black also.!!!!!!!!

 

with the 35amper I adjust the idle and speed screw with the lights on as you putting a load on it.

 

 

you can still run the ballast and the stock coil if you like but wont give the higher spark potential.  DO not cut out the START(hot start wire in case you go back or want to use a Pertronix.

If you bypass just get a 78 year coil

 

 

just to let you know the L16timing plate and mount will not fit that Codone distributor

Yeah they didn’t have black wire, it’s ok, I know what it is.
 

Regarding the lights, when I rev the engine with the lights on it has this buzzing sound (reminds me of the sound of my old Volkswagen engine) and when I rev it without the lights it doesn’t do it. I also notice a difference in performance (Slight)

 

Where can I find a compatible timing plate and mount? I was planning on bypassing the resistor as shown in the matchbox thread.