67 411 1600 (SSS) Wagon

[Greaser2]

I thought the pass side was going to be the good side.  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Do you have replacements? Or are you fabbing them?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

It looks a lot like the panels I just bought and installed on my Cherokee.

 

[MikeRL411]

Seal fender rust area with plastic wrap. Including sedan body side.  Fill with Naval Jelly. Go away for 1 or 2 days. Remove plastic wrap and rinse thoroughly, Let dry.

.  Buy canoe Fiberglass repair kit.  Apply cut to fit Fiberglass woven cloth with kit's supplied 2-part epoxy.  Let cure and coat / fair in the well sanded [yes sand before using filler] repair. Take a rest. Paint.  I did this on my 411 many years ago, it works. I filled the open void when I finished with Low Expansion foam, compressing the top layer before it completely set up thus eliminating need for factory cardboard filler strips [which are probably missing any way]. Use left over foam to seal around wheel wells to insure no more water infiltration, Now is the time to replace trunk weather strips if you can find suitable replacement. Prime and paint.

[Greaser2]

Finally got around to making the panel. Getting better at this, using this as practice for a 70 510 I want to start working on next year. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Looks good.

 

Check for pinholes with an LED flashlight. If there are any, the paint won't last a year.

 

You can fill pinholes with two part epoxy (JB weld), or just go back over them with the MIG. I have been applying a coat of epoxy to the back side of the welds (where I can) to help seal everything up. Run two tape lines, one on either side of the weld, then smear the epoxy with a body filler spreader, let it set up then remove the tape before it dries. Then I hit the epoxy with a DA to clean it up a bit.

[Greaser2]

I’ve had this 5-speed couple years came free with a car purchase. Surprisingly it’s only 1.5 inches longer at the key points then the 411 4speed. It’s rough on the outside but….  Of course the drive shaft will be very short.  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

That's a Roadster 5 speed. Highly desirable. If you sold it for market value, you could buy three or four Z five speeds.

[john510]

7 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

That's a Roadster 5 speed. Highly desirable. If you sold it for market value, you could buy three or four Z five speeds.

I have a Roadster 5 speed in the 510.A Roadster guy offered me $1,500 for it ! I'm keeping it.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

They are cool, and lend to the period correctness, but the later ZX 5spd is a better trans.

[john510]

8 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

They are cool, and lend to the period correctness, but the later ZX 5spd is a better trans.

You know I have the ZX 5 speed in the garage.I had it torn down and checked in case I ever need it.I just don't feel like taking apart a nice running car and dealing with the driveshaft thing.I'll sell that one at some point.

[RetroRocket]

On 2/15/2023 at 7:27 AM, Greaser2 said:

I'm a fan of AGM batteries.  XSPower D925 I've used in the past.  Will look a bit odd with just a shelf however.  

I've used (and still using it) an Odyssey AGM. They are very expensive but worth it. Especially true for use in a project car or one you would only drive during two or three seasons of the year. You absolutely must use a good 'smart' charger set for AGM or its circuitry automatically detects AGM. Additionally, and true for any car battery that sits for long periods, either pull a battery cable off of a terminal when sitting or better yet use a racing type disconnect switch or marine one. The plastic key/paddle that comes with the switch is removable as a measure that I am the one starting the engine at any given time. I've hidden those switches in the car interior or placed them in the engine compartment such that access to the switch terminals is not handy (otherwise a battery jumper cable can eliminate the switch function). Don't get one of the marine-type disconnects sold at auto stores that have the knob that loosens/tightens to make a connection. They are failure prone and of flawed design.

 

I am amazed at how long the Odyssey has lasted. I've gone through Optima AGM at two or three times the rate. I would never spend this much money for a battery in a vehicle used frequently but for eon-length projects or infrequent-use vehicles they are great. You can only drive one vehicle at a time, so I fit it to interchange/mount in several different vehicles, e.g.,' 72 240Z, '72 510, '75 Chinook, etc., etc. Plus they are tiny and easy to fit if space is tight.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Odyssey batteries are actually on the less expensive side of AGM. There are many others in the $600-$800 range, even up to $1200. I have had failures with Odyssey, but overall they have been good.

 

You don't need a special charger. You can use another lead acid battery hooked together with the AGM to get it to charge with a normal charger. I do that cause I'm a cheap bastard.

[iceman510]

14 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

You don't need a special charger. You can use another lead acid battery hooked together with the AGM to get it to charge with a normal charger. I do that cause I'm a cheap bastard.

 

Interesting.  Just hook them up in parallel?  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yep. Take a set of jumper cables and connect a good lead acid battery to the AGM, then the charger to either battery and give it some juice.  I give it 30 amps for about half an hour, then check it. If it reads above 10.5 volts, it means it can take a charge normally and you can remove the lead acid battery from the mix and charge the AGM on 1.5 amps for a couple hours.

 

This method may take a few days of repeating to bring a dead AGM back to life.

 

Special note - if the AGM gets warm, this is ok, but if it gets hot or starts hissing, turn tail and run. A runaway AGM can explode.

[Greaser2]

The paint stalled in epoxy in May after family issues and summer of hell, got urethane and single stage done and starting reassembly. Has some first time painting issues that I should be able to sand and polish out. Done with a turbine sprayer. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Love that color. My '71 510 was that color. Not stock. I resprayed it.

 

This is the only pic of that car that I have -

 

Edited November 25, 2023 by Stoffregen Motorsports

[edekalil]

On 4/9/2023 at 8:18 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Odyssey batteries are actually on the less expensive side of AGM. There are many others in the $600-$800 range, even up to $1200. I have had failures with Odyssey, but overall they have been good.

 

You don't need a special charger. You can use another lead acid battery hooked together with the AGM to get it to charge with a normal charger. I do that cause I'm a cheap bastard.

I think we are all cheap bastards most of the time with the exception of Mr Big Tanker LOL. I wish I had his money he has some nice stuff.

[edekalil]

On 11/21/2023 at 2:30 PM, Greaser2 said:

The paint stalled in epoxy in May after family issues and summer of hell, got urethane and single stage done and starting reassembly. Has some first time painting issues that I should be able to sand and polish out. Done with a turbine sprayer. 

Looking very nice.

[Greaser2]

SS brake and clutch lines and masters installed.  And parking brake cable and steering box back in.  

[KELMO]

I think I'm gonna be somewhat envious of this when it is done.

[Greaser2]

5speed bolted on and ready to install. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 12/10/2023 at 2:25 PM, KELMO said:

I think I'm gonna be somewhat envious of this when it is done.

Somewhat?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Somewhere I missed that you had a roadster 5 spd for this car. ANd is that an aluminum oil pan?

[Greaser2]

55 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Somewhere I missed that you had a roadster 5 spd for this car. ANd is that an aluminum oil pan?

As the engine is a R16, the 5 speed bolts up. Got lucky with the trans mount, simply inverted the 411 mount and drilled two holes and new hardware.  The aluminum oil pan is Stock for a 411 SSS.