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Hello I’m new to the forum here’s my 1972 Datsun 510 Waggon


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On 7/24/2022 at 6:22 PM, Markimusprime56 said:

What y’all think? Ordering them tonight.

F1EE2619-C514-49EC-B862-3E5C0C954FA1.jpeg

 

I have two sets, one for my 69 and one for my 73.  Both 15x7 but different offsets given one car has flares.  I bought one set from Futofab because Dave helped me out with offset calculations, etc,, and the other set I bought second hand but unused.  They are nice wheels and look so good on a 510.

 

 

Edited by iceman510
corrected omission.
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On 7/24/2022 at 2:40 AM, Markimusprime56 said:

Quick question that just ran through my head. Has anyone ever T5 swapped one of these? I’m pretty familiar with them speaking I’ve been through about 12 in my older foxbody days and know of a few available. Hope everyone’s had a good weekend!

Also my car has one of the factory locking gas caps they want a arm and leg for these days but I don’t have the keys.. any ideas..?

E57F77A5-C9BB-4728-A10C-6F1EC8128F2B.png

 

Many lock cylinders have a key code stamped on them.  Find a good old school locksmith, let them have a go at it!  Remind them the caps are NOT cheap, so please be careful!

 

If the cap is still on the car, you might have a problem!  I don't think you can access the phillips head screws that hole the filler neck to the body, with the factory cap in place......??  You might need to hire a mobile locksmith to drill out the cylinder, then possible replace the cylinder.......??

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On 7/25/2022 at 9:22 AM, iceman510 said:

 

I have two sets, one for my 69 and one for my 73.  Both 15x7 but different offsets given one car has flares.  I bought one set from Futofab because Dave helped me out with offset calculations, etc,, and the other set I bought second hand but unused.  They are nice wheels and look so good on a 510.

 

 

Mine was supposed to show up at the shop today but didn’t I ordered the 13x7. I don’t know if I’ve caught some bug but I’ve not left the bed this week. Wouldn’t wish it on anyone..

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On 7/25/2022 at 5:23 PM, yenpit said:

 

Many lock cylinders have a key code stamped on them.  Find a good old school locksmith, let them have a go at it!  Remind them the caps are NOT cheap, so please be careful!

 

If the cap is still on the car, you might have a problem!  I don't think you can access the phillips head screws that hole the filler neck to the body, with the factory cap in place......??  You might need to hire a mobile locksmith to drill out the cylinder, then possible replace the cylinder.......??

Unfortunately it’s still on the car. I’ve been looking and I should be able to get the filler neck out of the car and go from there I just personally don’t want to mess it up. I believe it’s coming down to getting a lock smith to come by. Fingers crossed 😁

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On 7/25/2022 at 6:44 PM, thisismatt said:

I doubt they are hard to pick.  I've picked decent quality locks before, and I'm far from experienced...and Datsun locks are not decent quality 😆

I have a picking set and a master facility set I just don’t want to mess it up. I’ve never really tried. 

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34 minutes ago, Markimusprime56 said:

Or is their some company that can fix it? Considering doing it myself and use spot putty for the ones I can’t.F2D5E0B8-65CF-45B0-9FE4-3BF124590D0C.jpeg

 

Fixing the stainless trim is possible, but difficult.  Especially that piece due to the shape. I pound them out using body work hammer and dollies, then file and sand as needed to smooth them.  I polished all mine.

 

Right now I am trying to do my hood trim.  It has a slight bend to it about 4 inches from the end so it doesn't seat flush to the hood near the end.  Haven't figured out how to get it straight yet.

 

 

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23 minutes ago, iceman510 said:

 

Fixing the stainless trim is possible, but difficult.  Especially that piece due to the shape. I pound them out using body work hammer and dollies, then file and sand as needed to smooth them.  I polished all mine.

 

Right now I am trying to do my hood trim.  It has a slight bend to it about 4 inches from the end so it doesn't seat flush to the hood near the end.  Haven't figured out how to get it straight yet.

 

 

I figured so. It’s just got that one good dent in it from what I can see. I’m gonna probably paint or powder coat the trim on this thing. I absolutely love the trim layout on these cars! 

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18 hours ago, Markimusprime56 said:

Figured I’d give y’all a idea of the bearings they all look just like this. 

4F7F53A4-04DD-4669-9A77-4C2EF080DA03.jpeg

They 'look' ok but for $5 get some plasti-gauge. It's a plastic 'thread' that you put on the crankshaft, install the bearing and torque to spec. This will crush it making it wider and you compare this to a provided scale to read the clearance.

 

I would just replace the rods and mains so I know they are like new. The mains can be changed without removing the crankshaft.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

They 'look' ok but for $5 get some plasti-gauge. It's a plastic 'thread' that you put on the crankshaft, install the bearing and torque to spec. This will crush it making it wider and you compare this to a provided scale to read the clearance.

 

I would just replace the rods and mains so I know they are like new. The mains can be changed without removing the crankshaft.

I done got them both brother. Mains and rod bearing and like I said a few post ago I have a oem ka24 oil pump from a 89 240. 😁😁 there is a ton of casting and a blind stop in the cover I’m gonna take a burr bit to. I know for a fact it had to be restrictive. 

Hope you’re doing well man!

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14 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I admit I was too lazy to read the last 4 pages and I can't remember shit.

 

 

54pXadC.jpg

Here's the pressure side. You can see the shiny area that was ground away. It was a sharp edge.

No biggie amigo. I know my thread is really boring at the moment but it’ll get interesting here soon, I’m glad I’m not the only one who noticed that restriction in that cover.

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pAmV8SK.jpg

 

Here's a better picture with more light. The bottom or floor still has some grinding to go and then a sandpaper roll to smooth it. I think this is the suction side so it's limited by ambient air pressure of 14.7 PSI. Needs to be as large and free of casting flash resistance as you can reasonably make it. 

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If cast iron block, hot water and a can of Drano for the sodium hydroxide, aka lye or caustic soda. It will clean aluminum but don't leave in longer than you need to, it will dissolve it and give off hydrogen gas.

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Just now, datzenmike said:

If cast iron block, hot water and a can of Drano for the sodium hydroxide, aka lye or caustic soda. It will clean aluminum but don't leave in longer than you need to, it will dissolve it and give off hydrogen gas.

I’ve just got the block in it. Head was cleaned at a machine shop. I hate cleaning aluminum lol.

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